Nissan Murano Z51 is a crossover that has gained popularity due to its reliability and comfort. However, even the most durable automatic transmission RE5R05A (installed on Z51 with engines VQ35DE And VQ25DE) requires timely maintenance. The main question for owners is: what kind of oil to put in automatic transmissionto avoid jerking, kicking and premature wear.

In this article we will analyze original oils from Nissan, acceptable analogues, signs of the need for replacement and unique nuances of the procedure for Murano Z51 (including features of partial and complete replacement). You will also find out why Flushing the automatic transmission can be harmful, and how to avoid common maintenance mistakes.

What kind of oil is poured into the Nissan Murano Z51 automatic transmission from the factory?

From factory to box Murano Z51 (2003–2007) poured ATF Matic Fluid D - original gear oil from Nissan with catalog number KLE22-00004. This synthetic oil with a unique additive package developed specifically for series boxes RE5Rxx.

Factory oil characteristics:

  • 🔹 Viscosity: conforms to standard JASO 1A (low temperature fluidity up to -40°C).
  • 🔹 Color: red (when new), darkens to brown over time.
  • 🔹 Service life: according to regulations Nissan - “for the entire service life”, but in practice requires replacement every 60–80 thousand km.
  • 🔹 Feature: Contains additives to protect friction clutches from wear and prevent the formation of varnish deposits.

Important: Matic Fluid D not compatible with more modern oils Nissan (For example, Matic Fluid S or NS-3). Substitution with an unsuitable composition leads to clutch slippage and accelerated wear of the valve body.

⚠️ Attention: If your automatic transmission was previously filled with Matic Fluid J (for old boxes RE4R01A), mix it with Matic Fluid D absolutely not possible. This will cause a chemical reaction causing the solenoids to become clogged.

Analogues of the original oil: what can be filled instead of Matic Fluid D

Original oil Nissan Matic Fluid D is expensive (from 1,200 rubles/liter), so many owners are looking for analogues. Main rule: the analogue must comply with the specification Nissan Matic D and have clearance JASO 1A.

Proven analogues:

  • 🔧 Idemitsu ATF Type-J - Japanese oil, fully compatible with Matic D. Suitable for severe operating conditions.
  • 🔧 Ravenol ATF J1A - a German analogue with improved antioxidant properties. Recommended for regions with sudden temperature changes.
  • 🔧 Motul Multi ATF - universal oil suitable for RE5R05A, but with a caveat: do not mix with the original.
  • 🔧 Castrol Transmax J - a budget option, but requires more frequent replacement (every 50 thousand km).

Oil Country Price (liter) Features
Nissan Matic Fluid D Japan 1 200–1 500 ₽ Original, best choice
Idemitsu ATF Type-J Japan 900–1 100 ₽ The best analogue in terms of price/quality ratio
Ravenol ATF J1A Germany 1 000–1 300 ₽ Increased thermal stability
Motul Multi ATF France 800–1 000 ₽ Versatile, but not for mixing

Warning: Cheap analogues (for example, Lukoil ATF or Rosneft Kinetic) are not suitable for Murano Z51. They do not contain the necessary additives for torque converter and solenoids, which leads to tugging at the box to cold.

📊 What oil do you use in the Murano Z51 automatic transmission?
  • Original Nissan Matic D
  • Idemitsu ATF Type-J
  • Ravenol ATF J1A
  • Other (I'll write in the comments)

Signs that it’s time to change the oil in the Murano Z51 automatic transmission

Regulations Nissan does not provide for changing the oil in a “maintenance-free” automatic transmission, but in practice, ignoring this procedure leads to major renovation already by 150–200 thousand km. The need for replacement is indicated by:

  • ⚠️ Jerks when switching (especially from 1st to 2nd gear).
  • ⚠️ Reaction delays on pressing the gas pedal (more than 1–2 seconds).
  • ⚠️ Vibrations or shocks in the torque converter when starting off.
  • ⚠️ Extraneous sounds (hum, grinding) in neutral gear.
  • ⚠️ Dark oil color (black or brown with metal shavings).
  • ⚠️ Burning smell from under the hood (indicates overheating of the clutches).

Critical sign - foaming oil (visible through the dipstick). This means that water or antifreeze has entered the fluid (for example, through a damaged automatic transmission cooling radiator). In this case it is required complete disassembly of the box.

⚠️ Attention: If after changing the oil the jerking does not disappear, the problem may be worn solenoids or clogged valve body. In this case, only diagnostics on the scanner will help (for example, Launch X431).
What to do if the oil turns black 10 thousand km after changing?

This is a sign of severe wear on the friction discs. In this case, a partial replacement will not help - a complete flushing of the system with a filter replacement and, possibly, automatic transmission repair are required. If you ignore the problem, after 20–30 thousand km the box will fail.

Step-by-step instructions for changing the oil in a Murano Z51 automatic transmission

Changing the oil in RE5R05A maybe partial (30–40% volume) or full (100% with flushing). For Murano Z51 optimal combined method: 2–3 partial replacements at intervals of 500–1,000 km.

Required tools and materials:

  • 🔧 New oil (8–10 liters for a complete change).
  • 🔧 Automatic transmission filter (original 31726-31X01 or equivalent JS Asakashi).
  • 🔧 Pan sealing ring (31397-31X00).
  • 🔧 10 mm wrench and 24 mm socket (for drain plug).
  • 🔧 Funnel with a long hose (for filling through the dipstick).
  • 🔧 Sealant Loctite 574 (for pallet).

Step by step process:

  1. Warm up the box up to 60–70°C (drive 10–15 km).
  2. Drain the old oil through a plug (volume ~3.5 l).
  3. Remove the pan, clean the magnets from chips and replace the filter.
  4. Install the pallet for new sealant (without retightening the bolts!).
  5. Fill with new oil through the dipstick (volume = drained + 0.5 l).
  6. Warm up the box and check the level using the dipstick (with the engine running, selector in P).

☑️ Checklist before changing the oil

Done: 0 / 4

Mistakes that owners make:

  • 🚫 Oil overflow - leads to foaming and loss of pressure.
  • 🚫 Using a non-original filter — may not provide the necessary filtration.
  • 🚫 Washing the box with solvents — destroys oil seals and seals.
  • 🚫 Replacement without warming up — the old oil is not completely drained.

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If jerking occurs after changing the oil, check its level. Often the problem lies in underfilling (the optimal level is between the marks HOT on the dipstick).

Full or partial replacement: which is better for Murano Z51

The choice of method depends on box condition And mileage:

Method Pros Cons Recommendation
Partial replacement Less risk of sediment washout, cheaper Only 30–40% of oil is changed Every 30–40 thousand km
Complete replacement 100% oil renewal, system cleaning Risk of washing away useful deposits, more expensive With mileage >150 thousand km or after purchasing a used car
Hardware replacement Maximum cleaning, suitable for heavily soiled boxes High risk of automatic transmission damage due to improper flushing Only in specialized services

When a complete replacement is needed:

  • 🔹 Black oil with metal shavings.
  • 🔹 The box “kicks” in all gears.
  • 🔹 Mileage >200 thousand km without previous replacements.
  • 🔹 When buying a used car (service history unknown).

When partial is enough:

  • 🔹 Regular maintenance (every 50–60 thousand km).
  • 🔹 The oil is dark, but without the smell of burning and large particles.
  • 🔹 No signs of wear (jerking, delays).

⚠️ Attention: Hardware replacement at the stand (the “pumping” method) is dangerous for RE5R05A due to the risk of washing off protective deposits from the valve body. If you decide to use this method, use only original oil and entrust the procedure to a service with experience working with Nissan.
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For a Murano Z51 with a mileage of >150 thousand km, the optimal scheme is: 2 partial changes at an interval of 1,000 km, then monitoring the oil condition. This minimizes the risk of sediment being washed away and gradually renews the fluid.

Common mistakes when changing oil and their consequences

Even experienced owners make mistakes that lead to automatic transmission breakdown. Let's look at the most common ones:

1. Using the wrong oil

Replacement Matic Fluid D on Dexron III or ATF+4 leads to:

  • 🔸 Loss of pressure in the hydraulic unit (the box is “stupid” when switching).
  • 🔸 Swelling of oil seals (oil leakage through seals).
  • 🔸 Accelerated wear of friction clutches (repair required after 20-30 thousand km).

2. Untimely filter replacement

Filter 31726-31X01 becomes clogged with wear products by 60 thousand km. If you don't change it:

  • 🔸 Oil circulation worsens → box overheating.
  • 🔸 Metal shavings get into the solenoids → valve jamming.

3. Re-tightening the pallet bolts

Tightening torque for pan bolts - 10–12 Nm. Excess leads to:

  • 🔸 Pan deformation → oil leak.
  • 🔸 Damage to the sealing ring.

4. Washing the box with solvents

Some services offer washing with kerosene or special compounds. For RE5R05A this is dangerous:

  • 🔸 Solvents wash away the protective layer from the friction clutches.
  • 🔸 Flushing residues are mixed with new oil → loss of properties.

What to do if after changing the oil the box stops shifting?

Check the oil level immediately (possibly underfilled). If the level is normal, the problem is in the solenoids, which could become clogged with chips during draining. Diagnostics and possibly replacement of the valve body is required.

How to extend the life of a Murano Z51 automatic transmission: operating tips

Even with regular oil changes RE5R05A may fail due to improper use. Follow these guidelines:

  • 🚗 Avoid abrupt starts (especially in cold weather). Warm up the box for 2-3 minutes before moving.
  • 🚗 Do not tow trailers >1.5t - this increases the load on the torque converter.
  • 🚗 Keep an eye on the cooling: The oil temperature should not exceed 90°C (install an additional radiator if you drive in traffic jams).
  • 🚗 Don't keep your foot on the brake on a slope - use the handbrake to reduce the load on the automatic transmission brake band.
  • 🚗 Check the oil level regularly (every 10 thousand km). Underfilling or overfilling are equally harmful.

Additional measures for cars with mileage >150 thousand km:

  • 🔧 Install external fine filter (For example, Magnefine).
  • 🔧 Use additives for automatic transmission (For example, Liqui Moly ATF Additive) to restore seals.
  • 🔧 Check solenoids on diagnostic equipment (error codes P0730–P0780 indicate their malfunction).

⚠️ Attention: If your Murano Z51 operated in conditions severe frosts (below -30°C), replace the oil with Idemitsu ATF Type-J - it has better low-temperature fluidity than the original Matic D.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about automatic transmission oil Nissan Murano Z51

Can Matic Fluid D be mixed with other oils?

No, mixing with Dexron, ATF+4 or even Matic Fluid J leads to a chemical reaction that destroys the additives. If you need to add oil on the road, use only original or Idemitsu ATF Type-J.

How much oil is needed for a complete change?

For RE5R05A total oil volume - 9.5–10 liters. With a partial replacement, ~3.5 liters are drained, so a complete update will require 3 cycles (with an interval of 500–1,000 km).

How to check the oil level without a dipstick?

On some versions Murano Z51 the dipstick is missing. In this case, the level is checked via inspection hole (under the plug on the pallet). The oil should drip when the box is warm (60–70°C) and the engine is running.

What to do if jerking occurs after changing the oil?

The reasons may be different:

  • 🔹 Not adding enough oil - add to the level HOT.
  • 🔹 Clogged filter - Replacement required.
  • 🔹 Box adaptation — sometimes after changing the oil, the automatic transmission needs to be “trained” (reset adaptations via a diagnostic scanner).

What kind of oil should I fill in the Murano Z51 automatic transmission for tuned engines?

If the engine is boosted (for example, a turbo kit is installed), use oil with increased thermal stability, for example:

  • 🔹 Ravenol ATF J1A — withstands temperatures up to 150°C.
  • 🔹 Motul ATF VI - Suitable for extreme loads.

Replace every 40 thousand km.