Nissan Murano Z51 - a legendary crossover that has gained popularity thanks to its reliable engine VQ35DE (3.5 l) and his younger brother VQ25DE (2.5 l). However, even these time-tested engines require proper care, especially in Russian roads and climate. In this article we will analyze specific engine protection measures, which will help avoid typical problems: oil consumption, overheating, timing chain wear and ring sticking.

Feature Murano Z51 (2008–2014) - sensitivity to oil and fuel quality. Many owners are faced with oil burnout after 150,000 km, although the engine resource with proper operation reaches 300,000+ km. We analyzed reviews from car owners, service manuals and recommendations from engineers Nissanto compose practical instructions - no general phrases, only verified data.

1. Oil selection: why 5W-30 kills the engine, and 0W-20 saves

The most common mistake owners make Murano Z51 - use of oil with viscosity 5W-30 or 10W-40. These oils do not meet the manufacturer's requirements for engines VQ35DE/VQ25DE after 2010. The fact is that with the update of the lubrication system (introduction VVEL - variable valve lift) Nissan tightened the requirements for oil fluidity.

Official recommendations for Murano Z51 (since 2010):

  • 🔹 0W-20 (optimal for cold climates and urban use)
  • 🔹 5W-20 (alternative if 0W-20 is not available)
  • 🔹 Tolerances: API SN, ILSAC GF-5 or higher
  • 🔹 Synthetic or semi-synthetic premium class (For example, Mobil 1 ESP 0W-20, Idemitsu Zepro Eco Medalist 0W-20)

Why 5W-30 is dangerous? At engine operating temperature (90–100°C), this oil is too thick for the thin channels of the system VVEL. This leads to:

  • 🔥 Oil starvation of camshafts and hydraulic compensators
  • 🔥 Accelerated wear of the timing chain (typical problem after 180,000 km)
  • 🔥 Ring sticking due to insufficient cylinder lubrication
⚠️ Attention: If your Murano Z51 manufactured before 2010, allowed 5W-30, but only with permission API SM and a quality class no lower ACEA A5/B5. Check the sticker under the hood for the exact specifications for your VIN.
📊 What oil do you use in Nissan Murano Z51?
  • 0W-20
  • 5W-20
  • 5W-30
  • 10W-40
  • Other

2. Prevention of oil consumption: why waste starts after 150,000 km

The problem of oil consumption (more than 1 liter per 10,000 km) is a scourge VQ35DE after 150–200 thousand km. The reasons lie in the design features:

  1. Wear of oil scraper rings — due to high temperatures and low-quality oil, they “lie down” and stop removing oil from the cylinder walls.
  2. Coking of piston rings — deposits in the grooves block the mobility of the rings.
  3. Wear of valve seals — rubber becomes tanned over time and ceases to seal.

How to prevent it?

  • 🛢️ Shorten your oil change interval up to 7,000–8,000 km (instead of 10,000–15,000 km). In Russian conditions this is critical!
  • 🧪 Use engine flushing every 3 oil changes (for example, Liqui Moly Pro-Line Motorspulung).
  • 🔥 Do it once every 50,000 km decarbonization (preferably with soft products like BG EPR or Wynns Combustion Chamber Cleaner).

If oil consumption has already begun:

  • 🔧 Check it out compression (norm: 12–14 bar in each cylinder, spread no more than 1 bar).
  • 🔧 Take a look breather - if white smoke comes out of it, it means oil is entering the combustion chambers.
  • 🔧 Replace valve seals (cost of work: ~15,000 rubles with spare parts).

Check the oil level with a dipstick (should be between MIN and MAX)

Change the oil to 0W-20 with SN/GF-5 approval

Add an anti-burn additive to the oil (for example, Liqui Moly Cera Tec)

Perform compression diagnostics

Inspect the breather for oil smoke -->

3. Overheating protection: why thermostats and pumps break down

Engines VQ35DE/VQ25DE sensitive to overheating due to the aluminum cylinder block. Critical temperature - 110°C: when exceeded, the block head begins to deform and the gasket burns out. Main causes of overheating:

  • 🔥 Faulty thermostat (sticks in closed position).
  • 🔥 Pump wear (bearing or impeller).
  • 🔥 Clogged radiator (outside - fluff/dirt, inside - scale).
  • 🔥 Low antifreeze level or its leak.

How to prevent it?

  • 🔧 Change antifreeze every 60,000 km (original: Nissan Long Life Coolant or equivalent CoolStream A-110).
  • 🔧 Check the operation of the thermostat: when warming up to 80°C, the lower radiator pipe should become hot.
  • 🔧 Flush the cooling system every 2 years (for example, Liqui Moly Kuhler-Reiniger).

Signs of overheating:

  • 🚨 The temperature arrow enters the red zone.
  • 🚨 Cold air blows from the stove when the engine is hot.
  • 🚨 White smoke appears from the exhaust pipe (antifreeze enters the combustion chambers).
⚠️ Attention: If the engine overheats, don't turn it off right away! Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to avoid heat stroke. Next, check the antifreeze level and inspect the radiator for leaks.
Symptom Possible reason Solution
Temperature fluctuates (either normal or overheating) Thermostat or temperature sensor is faulty Replacing the thermostat (~3,000 rub.) or sensor (~1,500 rub.)
Noise from the pump (howling or grinding) Pump bearing wear Pump replacement (~12,000 rubles including labor)
Antifreeze goes away, but there are no leaks Burnt out cylinder head gasket or crack in the block Pressure diagnostics, gasket replacement (~25,000 rub.)
The stove blows cold air Air lock or clogged heater radiator Bleeding the system, flushing the radiator (~5,000 rub.)

4. Timing chain: why it stretches and how to avoid replacement for 50,000 rubles.

Timing chain in VQ35DE - weak point after 180,000 km. When the chain stretches, the following appears:

  • 🔊 Metallic knock on a cold engine (from the timing drive side).
  • 🔊 Floating speed at idle speed.
  • 🔊 Error P0011/P0021 (valve timing).

Reasons for chain stretching:

  • 🛢️ Poor quality oil (5W-30/10W-40 accelerates tensioner wear).
  • 🛢️ Late oil change (wear particles act as an abrasive).
  • 🛢️ Engine overheating (the chain loses strength).

How to extend the life of a chain?

  • 🔧 Use oil 0W-20 with molybdenum additives (for example, Idemitsu Extreme Eco 0W-20).
  • 🔧 Check every 100,000 km chain tension (special tool required).
  • 🔧 When a knock occurs immediately go for diagnostics - delay is fraught with a broken circuit and capital costs (~200,000 rubles).
⚠️ Attention: If the chain is already stretched, it can't be pulled - only replacement! Average cost of working with spare parts: 45,000–60,000 rubles. (depending on the region).
What happens if the timing chain breaks?

When the chain breaks, the pistons hit the valves, which leads to:

- Bent valves (100% guarantee)

- Damage to pistons and cylinders

- Engine overhaul (from RUB 150,000)

In some cases, the cylinder block cracks - then only replacing the engine (~300,000 rubles).

5. Fuel and additives: how to avoid carbon deposits on valves

Engines VQ35DE/VQ25DE sensitive to fuel quality. Usage 92 gasoline or poor quality 95th leads to:

  • 🔥 Soot formation on the intake valves (due to lack of cleaning, as in direct injection systems).
  • 🔥 Detonation (knock of "fingers" during acceleration).
  • 🔥 Clogged injectors (dips during acceleration).

Fuel recommendations:

  • 🛢️ Refuel only at proven gas stations (Lukoil, Gazpromneft, Rosneft).
  • 🛢️ Use 95 or 98 gasoline (octane number not lower than 95).
  • 🛢️ Add once every 20,000 km fuel system cleaner (For example, Liqui Moly Injection Reiniger).

To clean valves from carbon deposits:

  • 🧪 Once every 50,000 km, carry out chemical cleaning (For example, BG Platinum Fuel System Cleaner).
  • 🧪 It will help with severe soot ultrasonic cleaning (cost: ~10,000 rub.).
💡

If after refueling there are failures during acceleration, drain the fuel and fill with high-quality 95-grade gasoline with an additive Liqui Moly Speed Tec. This will help temporarily restore power until the injectors are cleaned.

6. Prevention of corrosion and protection from moisture

Aluminum cylinder block VQ35DE susceptible to corrosion, especially in Russian winter conditions (salt, reagents). To avoid destruction:

  • 🛡️ Treat the engine once a year anti-corrosion composition (For example, Noxudol 700).
  • 🛡️ After washing the engine dry thoroughly generator and starter (use compressor).
  • 🛡️ Install mud flaps on the front wheels - they protect against sandblasting.

Signs of corrosion:

  • 🚨 White coating on aluminum parts (oxidation).
  • 🚨 Leaks of rusty fluid from under the block head.
  • 🚨 Difficulty in unscrewing bolts (sticking).
💡

Anti-corrosion engine treatment Nissan Murano Z51 should be carried out every autumn - this will double the service life of aluminum parts and prevent oil leaks.

7. Diagnosis and early signs of problems

To avoid costly repairs, keep an eye on early symptoms faults:

Symptom Possible problem Action
Engine stalls when cold Worn spark plugs or ignition coils Replacing spark plugs (~3,000 rub.), checking coils (~1,500 rub. per piece)
Vibration at idle Dirty throttle valve or injectors Cleaning the throttle (~2,000 rub.) or injectors (~5,000 rub.)
Extraneous noise when the engine is running Worn timing chain or hydraulic compensators Diagnostics at a service station (~1,500 rub.)
Black smoke from the exhaust pipe Rich mixture (malfunction of oxygen sensors or flow meter) ECU diagnostics (~2,000 rub.)

For self-diagnosis:

  • 🔧 Buy ELM327 adapter (~1,000 rub.) and program Torque Pro to read errors.
  • 🔧 Check compression every 100,000 km (compression tester rental: ~500 rub.).
  • 🔧 Follow oil color on the dipstick: if it is black after 2,000 km, the engine requires flushing.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about engine protection Nissan Murano Z51

Can I use 5W-40 oil in a 2012 Murano Z51?

No! Since 2010 Nissan recommends only 0W-20 or 5W-20 for engines with system VVEL. Oil 5W-40 too thick for thin oil channels, which will lead to oil starvation and accelerated wear of the timing chain. The exception is if you live in a region with extremely high temperatures (above +40°C), but even then it is better to use 5W-30 with SN/GF-5 approval.

How often should I change the oil if I only drive around town?

In the urban cycle (frequent traffic jams, short trips), the oil degrades faster due to constant heating and low loads. Recommended interval: every 7,000–8,000 km or once every 6 months (whichever comes first). If you use oil Idemitsu Zepro 0W-20 or Mobil 1 ESP 0W-20, can be stretched to 9,000 km, but no more.

What to do if the engine starts to “eat” oil (1 liter per 1,000 km)?

With such oil consumption it is necessary urgent diagnostics:

  1. Check compression - if in one or more cylinders it is below 10 bar, repairs will be required (rings sticking or cylinder wear).
  2. Inspect breather - if white smoke comes out of it, oil enters the combustion chambers through valve seals or piston rings.
  3. Check oil level in box - sometimes oil loss is confused with a leak through the crankshaft oil seal (oil gets into the box).

Temporary solution: switch to oil 5W-40 with high additive content (For example, Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40) and add anti-smoke additive (Liqui Moly Oil-Verschleiss-Schutz). But this will only delay the repair!

Is it worth doing engine decarbonization yourself?

Soft decarbonization (for example, BG EPR or Wynns Combustion Chamber Cleaner) can be done independently, but only if:

  • 🔧 Oil consumption does not exceed 300 ml per 1,000 km.
  • 🔧 No misfire errors (P0300–P0306).
  • 🔧 Compression in all cylinders is above 12 bar.

Aggressive means (such as Lavr ML-202) it is better not to use - they can damage seals and gaskets. After decoking necessarily change the oil and filter, as the product eats away deposits that get into the crankcase.

What antifreeze should I use in Murano Z51?

Original antifreeze for Murano Z51 — Nissan Long Life Coolant (green color). Alternatives:

  • 🔹 CoolStream A-110 (red, compatible with the original).
  • 🔹 Sintec Unlimited G12++ (purple, service life up to 250,000 km).
  • 🔹 Motul Inugel Optimal (orange, for aluminum engines).

Important: Do not mix antifreeze of different colors and brands! When replacing, rinse the system with distilled water or a special product (Liqui Moly Kuhler-Reiniger).