Rear pillars Nissan Primera P12 (2002–2008) - one of the key elements of the suspension, on which the comfort, handling and safety of the car depends. Over time, shock absorbers wear out: knocking noises appear, road grip deteriorates, and the body begins to “sag” on bumps. If you notice oil smudges on the struts, increased roll when cornering, or suspension breakdowns on uneven surfaces, it’s time to change them.

In this article you will find step-by-step instructions for replacing rear struts on Primera P12 with photos and videos, recommendations for choosing spare parts (original vs analogues), a list of necessary tools and unique tips for diagnosing faults that are not in standard manuals. We will also look at typical mistakes that beginners make and explain how to avoid them.

Signs of wear on the rear struts on a Nissan Primera P12

You can determine that the rear shock absorbers require replacement based on several symptoms. Some of them appear gradually, others become obvious only during diagnosis.

Main features:

  • 🔧 Oil stains on the strut body - evidence of depressurization and loss of working fluid.
  • 🚗 Increased body roll when turning or when braking sharply (the car “falls over” to one side).
  • 💥 "Breakthroughs" of the suspension on bumps - loud blows are heard, as if metal is hitting metal.
  • 🛣️ Deterioration of grip with the road on uneven surfaces, especially at high speeds (the car “floats”).
  • 🔄 Uneven rear tire wear - often associated with faulty struts or springs.

For an accurate diagnosis, you can perform a simple test: press firmly on the rear of the body (above the wheel) and release sharply. If the rack is in good condition, the body will immediately return to its original position without swinging. If the car continues to swing 2-3 times - the shock absorber to be replaced.

⚠️ Attention: On Primera P12 with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, not only the struts often wear out, but also shock absorber supports, and also anthers with bumpers. Be sure to check their condition when replacing!
📊 How often do you check the condition of the suspension?
  • Every 10 thousand km
  • Once a year
  • Only when knocking occurs
  • Never

Which racks to choose: original or analogues?

There are many options for rear struts on the market. Nissan Primera P12 - from original to budget analogues. The choice depends on your budget, driving style and comfort expectations.

Rack type Manufacturer / Article Average price (per 1 piece) Pros Cons
Original (Nissan) 54300-4M000 (right), 54301-4M000 (left) 8 000–12 000 ₽ Guaranteed quality, long service life (100+ thousand km), perfect compatibility High price, rarely in stock
Kayaba (KYB) 344397 (Excel-G) / 349041 (Ultra SR) 4 500–6 500 ₽ Good price/quality ratio, softer than the original, popular with tuning studios Ultra SR is a bit harsh for everyday driving
Monroe E3496 3 800–5 000 ₽ Soft, comfortable for the city, affordable price Service life is shorter than KYB (60–80 thousand km)
Boge 23-0566 5 000–7 000 ₽ Good stability at high speeds, suitable for aggressive driving Stiffer than the original, can knock on small bumps

For most owners Primera P12 the best choice would be racks Kayaba Excel-G - they are close in characteristics to the original, but cost 2 times less. If you prefer a sporty driving style, pay attention to KYB Ultra SR or Boge.

Important: When purchasing, check that the kit includes anthers, bumpers and fastening nuts. Some manufacturers (such as Monroe) sell them separately.

💡

If you are choosing racks for winter, give preference to models with oil-filled shock absorber (for example, Monroe E3496) - they are less sensitive to low temperatures than gas ones (KYB Ultra SR).

Necessary tools and preparation for replacement

To replace the rear struts yourself Nissan Primera P12 you will need a standard set of tools, as well as several specialized devices. Do not skimp on the quality of the wrenches - weak tools can break when unscrewing stuck nuts.

List of tools:

  • 🔧 Spanners for 17 mm, 19 mm, 21 mm (for lower rack mounting).
  • 🔧 Socket heads with a collar and extension (for top mounting in the trunk).
  • 🔧 A special key for holding the shock absorber rod (or spring ties, if you disassemble the strut completely).
  • 🔧 Jack and body supports (it is absolutely forbidden to work only on a jack!).
  • 🔧 WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant (for loosening rusty nuts).
  • 🔧 Torque wrench (for proper tightening of nuts).
  • 🔧 Hammer and chisel (in case the nuts are stuck).

Also prepare new struts, boots, bumpers and, if necessary, support bearings (if they are loose). Before starting work:

  1. Place the car on a level surface and fix the front wheels stops.
  2. Loosen the wheel nuts (but do not remove them completely!).
  3. Treat all threaded connections with WD-40. 1–2 hours before work starts.
⚠️ Attention: If you plan to replace struts in a garage without a pit, be aware that access to the upper shock absorber mount in the trunk is extremely inconvenient. Be prepared to work lying down or use a low stool.

Loosen the wheel nuts|Treat all threaded connections with WD-40|Prepare supports for the body (at least 2 pieces)|Check for the presence of all new parts (struts, boots, nuts)|Disconnect the battery (if you work with ABS sensors)-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear struts

The process of replacing rear shock absorbers with Primera P12 can be divided into several stages. If you have never done this kind of work, take a look in advance video instructions (link at the end of the article) - this will help you avoid mistakes.

Step 1. Removing the wheel and accessing the rack

  1. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and install a support under the body (for example, under the spar).
  2. Remove the wheel. You will now see the lower strut mount to the control arm.
  3. Clean the fastening nut from dirt and treat it again with WD-40.

Step 2. Unscrewing the lower fastener

Use the key on 19 mm for nut and 21 mm to hold the bolt on the reverse side. If the nut does not budge:

  • Try heating it with a hair dryer (do not overheat the rubber bands!).
  • Use a hammer and chisel to dislodge the nut.
  • As a last resort, cut the bolt with a grinder (but then you will have to buy a new one).

Step 3: Removing the top mount

This is the most difficult stage. You need:

  1. Open the trunk and remove the trim on the right or left side (depending on which rack you are changing).
  2. Under the casing you will see three nuts on 17 mm, securing the rack to the body. Unscrew them.
  3. Carefully pull the strut down through the wheel arch.

Step 4: Install the New Rack

Before installing a new part:

  • Check that boot and bumper were put on correctly.
  • If the strut comes complete with a spring, make sure that the spring correctly oriented (the ends should rest against special protrusions).
  • Tighten the nuts torque wrench with force:
    • Bottom mount: 100–120 Nm.
    • Top mount: 25–30 Nm.

Step 5. Check after replacement

After installing both racks:

  • Lower the car and press firmly on the rear a few times until the struts are seated.
  • Take a test drive at speed 40–60 km/h, paying attention to:
    • No knocking.
    • Stability in corners.
    • Smooth ride on uneven surfaces.
💡

Never tighten the strut mounting nuts while hanging (when the car is on a jack)! This will lead to premature wear of the bushings and silent blocks. Tighten only after the car is on its wheels.

Common mistakes when replacing racks and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to rapid failure of the struts or deterioration in handling. Here are the most common of them:

1. Incorrect tightening of nuts

If you tighten the lower fastening (more than 120 Nm), the silent block of the lever can be damaged. If you don't reach it (less than 80 Nm) - the stand will play. Solution: Always use a torque wrench.

2. Ignoring anthers and bump stops

Many people install new struts, but leave the old torn boots. This leads to dirt getting on the rod and accelerated shock absorber wear. Solution: always change the boots along with the struts.

3. Incorrect spring installation

If the spring is not installed correctly or is skewed, it will rub against the rack body, making a creaking sound. Solution: check that the ends of the spring fit exactly into the grooves on the support cup.

4. Work without spring ties

If you are disassembling the strut (for example, to change the support bearing), never remove the stem nut without zip ties — the spring can “shoot” and cause serious injury. Solution: use special ties or contact service.

5. Replacing only one rack

If you change the stance on one side, be sure to replace the second one too - even if it looks fine. Different stiffness of shock absorbers leads to uneven tire wear and deterioration in controllability.

What happens if you drive on worn struts?

Long-term driving on faulty shock absorbers leads to:

  • Increased braking distance by 20–30% (due to poor grip of the wheels on the road).
  • Rapid wear wheel bearings And tires.
  • Damage springs And suspension arms.
  • Deterioration of work ABS and ESP (if they are included in the package).

In extreme cases it can happen rack destruction on the move, which will lead to loss of control!

When to contact the service, and when can you handle it yourself?

Replacing rear struts with Nissan Primera P12 - a task of medium complexity. If you have experience in suspension repairs, the necessary tools and an assistant, you can handle it. 2–3 hours. However, in some cases it is better to trust the professionals:

It’s worth going to the service if:

  • 🔧 You don't have spring ties, and the racks need to be disassembled (for example, to replace the support bearing).
  • 🔧 Fastening nuts got so attachedthat do not unscrew even after heating.
  • 🔧Have you noticed? cracks on springs or deformation of the levers - this requires additional diagnostics.
  • 🔧 Needs replacement lever silent blocks or stabilizer bushings parallel to the racks.

You can do it yourself if:

  • 🔧 Stands change assembled (without disassembly).
  • 🔧 Do you have torque wrench And reliable supports for a car.
  • 🔧 Are you ready to spend time on thorough preparation (cleaning threads, purchasing all consumables).

The average cost of replacing rear struts at a service center is: 3 000–5 000 ₽ (excluding spare parts). If you are confident in your abilities, doing the repair yourself will save that money, but remember: mistakes will cost more!

Video instructions and additional materials

For clarity, we recommend watching a video on replacing the rear struts with Nissan Primera P12:

Useful videos:

You may also find it useful:

  1. Are they installed correctly? bumpers (they should not be twisted).
  2. Is it compliant? stand brand your riding style (for example, the KYB Ultra SR is stiffer than the Monroe).
  3. Are they overtightened? fastening nuts (this may block the shock absorber operation).
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Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to drive if one strut is leaking and the other is not?

It is possible for a short time (1–2 days), but highly undesirable. Different shock absorber stiffness leads to:

  • Uneven tire wear.
  • Deterioration in handling when cornering (the car may “steer” to the side).
  • Increased load on a working rack, which shortens its service life.

If you notice a leak, plan a replacement both racks in the near future.

Do I need to do a wheel alignment after replacing the struts?

On Nissan Primera P12 replacing rear struts no effect on camber/toe angles, since they are not adjustable. However:

  • Check tire pressure (should be the same on both sides).
  • If you notice that the car is “driving” to the side, check play in steering rods or tire pressure.
How often do rear struts need to be replaced on a Primera P12?

The service life of shock absorbers depends on operating conditions:

  • City driving (asphalt): 80–120 thousand km.
  • Driving on primers/apples: 50–80 thousand km.
  • Aggressive driving style: 40–60 thousand km.

It is recommended to check the condition of the racks every 20 thousand km (visually and swing test).

Is it possible to restore old racks (rebuild)?

Theoretically yes, but inappropriate. Restoring one rack will cost 3 000–4 000 ₽ (including spare parts and labor), which is comparable to the cost of a new rack Monroe or KYB. Besides:

  • The quality of restoration depends on the skill of the specialist.
  • There is usually no warranty for such racks.
  • Service life after restoration - 30–50 thousand km (versus 80–100 thousand km for new ones).

Exception - collectible or rare models, for which there are no new spare parts.

What should I do if a knocking noise appears after replacing the struts?

A knocking noise after replacement can occur for several reasons:

  • Fastening nuts are loose — check the tightening torque.
  • Damaged anthers/chips - Inspect them for cracks.
  • The silent blocks of the levers are worn out - they can knock regardless of the racks.
  • The spring is not installed correctly — it can rub against the rack body.

If the knocking noise does not go away, contact service for suspension diagnostics on a lift.