How to change the rear pads on a Nissan X-Trail T31 yourself: detailed instructions

Replacing rear brake pads with Nissan X-Trail T31 (2007–2013) - a procedure that many car owners prefer to do on their own. And for good reason: with the right approach, the work will take 1–2 hours, and the savings will be 3–5 thousand rubles compared to a service station. However, there are nuances here that are often missed: from the features of the handbrake mechanism to the correct bleeding of the system after replacement.

In this guide, we'll walk you through the entire process, from pad selection to final inspection. Let's pay attention typical mistakeswhich lead to squeaking, uneven wear or jamming of the brakes. We’ll also tell you how to avoid problems with ABS And ESP, which often arise due to unprofessional intervention.

Which pads to choose for Nissan X-Trail T31: original vs analogues

Original rear pads from Nissan have an article number 40520-4M000 (for versions with disc brakes) and 40520-4M025 (for drum mechanisms on budget trim levels). Their average price is 4–6 thousand rubles per set. But many owners choose analogues, which are often not inferior in quality, but cost 1.5–2 times cheaper.

Among the trusted brands:

• 🔹 ATE (article 13.0460-7207.2) - soft pads with low dust levels, but wear out faster.
• 🔹 Ferodo (article FDB1465) - optimal balance of price and durability, recommended for aggressive driving style.
• 🔹 TRW (article GDB1465) - rigid pads with a high coefficient of friction, suitable for severe operating conditions.
• 🔹 Brembo (article P 24 060) is a premium option with improved heat dissipation, but the price is close to the original.

When choosing, pay attention to friction material composition: pads with high metal content (semi-metallic) last longer, but wear out the discs more. Ceramic (ceramic) produce less dust and are quieter, but may slow down worse at low temperatures.

Tools and materials: what you need for work

To change the rear pads to X-Trail T31, prepare the following set:

Tool/material	Purpose	Note
Jack and stops	Lifting the car	Be sure to use wheel chocks!
14 mm socket wrench	Unscrewing the caliper guides	It is better to use a ratchet head
Open-end wrench 17 mm	Fixing the guides when unscrewing	Lever extension may be needed
Flat blade screwdriver	Pressing in the caliper piston	Preferably with a magnetic tip
WD-40 or similar	Processing stuck-on elements	Do not use to clean brake surfaces!

Additionally you will need:

• 🧰 DOT-4 brake fluid (for topping up after pushing in the piston).
• 🧴 Copper grease for caliper guides (for example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste).
• 🧹 Metal brush and rags for cleaning mechanisms.
• 🔧 Torque wrench (optional for precise bolt tightening).

⚠️ Attention: Do not use graphite lubricant for caliper guides - it burns out at high temperatures and can lead to jamming of the mechanism. Copper grease can withstand heat up to 1100°C.

Preparing the vehicle: removing the wheel and caliper

Before starting work, make sure that the vehicle is parked flat surface, and the handbrake completely lowered. Next, follow the steps:

1. Loosen the rear wheel bolts while the car is still on the ground. Raise the car with a jack and place stands under the front wheels.

2. Remove the wheel and clean the caliper from dirt with a metal brush. Pay special attention to the guides and anthers.

3. Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (14 mm), holding the guides with a 17 mm wrench. Remove the caliper and hang it on a wire to the spring - Do not let it hang on the brake hose!

At this stage, many people encounter a problem: the caliper guides may become stuck. If they don't respond, treat them. WD-40 and let stand for 10-15 minutes. Do not hit them with a hammer - this will deform the thread!

Loosen the wheel bolts|Raise the car and install stops|Clean the caliper from dirt|Unscrew the caliper bolts (14 mm)|Hang the caliper on a wire-->

Removing old pads and processing guides

After removing the caliper you will see two pads: internal (piston side) and external. To remove them:

1. Carefully pry the outer block with a screwdriver and remove it from the guides. The inner one usually comes out without effort.

2. Inspect guide anthers - if they are torn or have lost elasticity, replace them (part number 40526-4M000).

3. Clean the guides of old grease and apply a new layer copper paste. Remove excess with a rag.

Please note brake disc condition. If it has deep grooves (more than 1 mm) or waviness, the disc requires re-grooving or replacement. For X-Trail T31 minimum permissible thickness of the rear disc - 10 mm (denomination - 12 mm).

⚠️ Attention: If found on the pads uneven wear (one side is more worn than the other), this indicates that the caliper guides are jammed. In this case, complete disassembly and cleaning of the mechanism is required.

Installing new pads and assembling the mechanism

Before installing new pads, you must press in the caliper piston. There is an important nuance here: X-Trail T31 with electronic hand brake (EPB) The piston is screwed in clockwise. To do this:

1. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure in the system.

2. Use a special tool (or wide-nose pliers) to screw in the piston. Don't try too hard!

3. If the piston does not screw in, check whether the EPB in maintenance mode (some versions require a diagnostic scanner to unlock).

After this:

• 🔧 Install inner block into the caliper, then - external.
• 🔧 Make sure that spring clips the pads are in place (they prevent rattling).
• 🔧 Return the caliper to its place and tighten the bolts with torque 30–35 Nm.

Don't forget to check piston stroke After installation: it should move freely, without jamming. If the piston is difficult to move, disassemble the caliper and clean it of corrosion.

Checking the brakes and possible problems

After replacing the pads, be sure to:

1. Bleed the brake system (if the hydraulic circuit has been opened). To do this you will need an assistant or vacuum pump.

2. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and add if necessary.

3. Take a test drive at speed 30–40 km/h with some heavy braking. The pads should grind in evenly, without vibrations or squeaks.

Typical problems after replacement and their causes:

• 🔊 Creaking noise when braking — the pads are not worn in (need 100–200 km of run) or dirt has gotten between the pad and the disc.
• 🚗 Pulling the car to the side — uneven tightening of the caliper or jamming of the guides.
• 🔥 Brake overheating — the piston is screwed too tightly or the brake disc is worn out.

⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the pads, the instrument panel lights up ABS indicator or ESP, this may indicate air has entered the system or sensor damage. In this case, diagnostics with a scanner is required (for example, Launch X431).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when replacing rear pads with X-Trail T31. Here are the most common:

1. Incorrect piston screw-in (counterclockwise on models with EPB). This leads to damage to the threads and the need to replace the caliper.

2. Ignoring the state of the guides. If they are not lubricated or free of corrosion, the pads will wear unevenly.

3. Using the wrong lubricant (For example, Litola or Solidola). It decomposes when heated and causes jamming.

4. Failure to check brake hoses. Cracks or swelling in the hoses can lead to rupture during heavy braking.

To avoid problems, follow a simple rule: if something goes wrong (for example, the piston does not screw in or the pads do not fit into place), do not use force - figure out the reason.

What should I do if the brake pedal becomes soft after replacing the pads?

This is a sign of air getting into the system. It is necessary to bleed the brakes, starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (on the X-Trail T31, the order is: right rear → left rear → right front → left front). If bleeding does not help, check the tightness of the hoses and connections.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?

No, the rear pads are always replaced pair on one axis. Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

How often do you need to change the rear pads on the X-Trail T31?

Average resource of rear pads - 40–60 thousand km, but it depends on driving style and operating conditions. Signs of wear: squeaking, increased brake pedal travel or indicator on the instrument panel (on versions with wear indicators).

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding is only required if you opened the hydraulic circuit (for example, unscrewed the brake hose). If you just changed the pads and pressed in the piston, just check the fluid level and add if necessary.

What should I do if the handbrake does not hold after replacing the pads?

On X-Trail T31 with EPB The handbrake may require calibration. To do this:

1. Turn on the ignition (without starting the engine).
2. Press the brake pedal all the way 5 times in a row.
3. Keep the pedal pressed and pull the handbrake up 5–7 clicks.
4. Release the pedal and handbrake - the system should automatically calibrate.

If this does not help, you will need a diagnostic scanner to clear the errors.

Which pads are better - ceramic or semi-metallic?

The choice depends on the operating conditions:

• 🔹 Ceramic suitable for city driving (less dust, quieter, but more expensive).
• 🔹 Semi-metallic better for off-road and difficult conditions (they last longer, but wear out the discs more).

For X-Trail T31 the best option is pads with organic composition (For example, Ferodo Premier), which combine durability and low noise levels.