Nissan Almera N16 - one of the most popular sedans of the early 2000s, which is still actively used on Russian roads. Despite the simplicity of the design, the rear brake mechanisms of this car have their own characteristics, which are important to consider when replacing pads. Unlike front disc brakes, rear drum brakes require more time and care, especially if we are talking about a model with ABS or electronic brake force distribution (EBD).
In this article you will not find template instructions, but practical advice from masters who work daily with Almera N16. We'll look at what tools are really needed (and what you can do without), how to avoid common mistakes when disassembling the drum, and why new pads can squeak for the first 200 km even with correct installation. You will also learn how to check the condition of the brake cylinder and when it is necessary to change it along with the pads.
When do you need to change the rear pads on a Nissan Almera N16
The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the rear brake pads every 30,000–40,000 km, but their actual service life depends on driving style and operating conditions. For example, with frequent trips on mountain roads or with a trailer, wear may occur within 20,000 km. Here are the key signs that your pads need replacing:
- 🔊 Creaking or squealing when braking (especially at low speeds). On Almera N16 this is often due to wear of the friction layer down to the metal base.
- 🚗 Increased brake pedal travel or its “softness” is a sign that the pads are worn out and the cylinder pistons are extended too far.
- 🔧 Visible cracks or chips on the friction material (can be seen through the inspection window in the drum, if there is one).
- 💨 Dust from brake pads on wheel rims - if it becomes black and greasy, this indicates the destruction of the pad material.
Feature Almera N16 — asymmetrical wear rear pads. Often the inner pad wears out 2 times faster than the outer pad due to uneven load distribution. If you notice that the car pulls to the side when braking, this may be due to different wear on the left and right pads.
⚠️ Attention: If deep grooves appear on the pads or they are covered with oil (for example, due to a leaking axle shaft seal), they must be replaced immediately - even if the thickness of the friction layer is still acceptable. Oil dramatically reduces braking efficiency!
Which pads to choose for Nissan Almera N16: original vs analogues
Original rear pads for Almera N16 have an article number Nissan 40520-9M000 (for models without ABS) and Nissan 40520-9M001 (with ABS). Their average cost is 2,500–3,500 rubles per set for both sides. However, many owners choose analogues, which are often not inferior in quality, but are cheaper.
| Brand | Article | Price (set) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nissan (original) | 40520-9M000 |
2 500–3 500 ₽ | Guaranteed compatibility, minimal squeaking |
| Bosch | 0 986 494 627 |
1 800–2 200 ₽ | High quality friction material, suitable for aggressive driving |
| Ferodo | FSB631 |
2 000–2 400 ₽ | Soft pads, generate little dust, but wear out faster |
| TRW | GSB1406 |
1 600–2 000 ₽ | Good price/quality balance, often installed in services |
| Sangsin | SP1399 |
1 200–1 500 ₽ | Budget option, the first 1,000 km may creak |
When choosing analogues, pay attention to friction material composition:
- 🔹 Semi-metallic pads (containing copper or steel) are more durable, but wear out the drum more and can creak.
- 🔹 Ceramic less aggressive to the drum, but more expensive and perform worse at low temperatures.
- 🔹 Organic (resin-based) are soft and silent, but wear out quickly.
- Original Nissan
- Bosch/Ferodo
- Budget analogues (TRW, Sangsin)
- I don't know what to choose
Tools and materials for replacement: what you really need
To replace the rear pads with Almera N16 You don’t need a professional tool, but there are a few nuances. Here minimum required set:
- 🔧 Balloon wrench (usually on
19or21). - 🔧 Jack And wheel chocks (required! even if you work in a pit).
- 🔧 Pliers (to remove tension springs).
- 🔧 Flat blade screwdriver (to pry off the hub protective cap).
- 🔧 Head on
7 mmor a wrench for unscrewing the drum guide pins. - 🔧 Hammer (rubber or through a wooden spacer to remove the drum).
- 🧴 WD-40 or similar cleaner (for processing threaded connections).
- 🧴 DOT-4 brake fluid (in case of bleeding the system).
- 🧴 High temperature grease (For example, Slipkote 220-R DBC for guides).
What NOT needed (common misconceptions):
- ❌ Special drum puller - on Almera N16 The drum is removed manually after unscrewing the guide.
- ❌ Torque wrench — all nuts are tightened with force “by hand” until they stop.
- ❌ Brake bleeding kit — if the brake cylinder is not damaged, bleeding is not required.
Before starting work, take a photo of the location of all the springs and rods on the old pads - this will greatly simplify the assembly, especially if you are doing this for the first time.
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the drum and replace the pads
The most difficult stage is dismantling the brake drum. On Almera N16 it often “sticks” to the hub due to corrosion. Here's how to do it right:
Raise the rear of the car with a jack, remove the wheel and unscrew guide pin (nut on
7 mm) in the center of the drum. It secures the drum from turning.Remove protective cap hub (pry it off with a screwdriver). Below it you will see the wheel bearing nut. Don't unscrew it! This will result in disassembling the hub, which is not necessary to replace the pads.
Apply WD-40 at the junction of the drum and the hub, wait 5–10 minutes. Then tap the hammer evenly through a block of wood along the edge of the drum, turning it. This will help stop the corrosion.
Remove the drum. If it doesn't work, try it screw the guide pin into another hole (there are 2 of them on the drum) and pull it towards you. Usually this is enough.
After removing the drum you will see the brake mechanism. Here's how to replace the pads:
Remove upper tension spring (use pliers). It connects both pads.
Disconnect bottom spring And handbrake pull from the block. Be careful - the springs may shoot out!
Remove spacer bar (it is located between the pads at the top).
Move the pads to the sides and remove them from the support posts. Please note metal staples - they must remain in place.
Before installing new pads recess the brake cylinder pistons as much as possible. To do this, use sliding pliers or a special tool. Do not press the brake pedal before installing the drum! - this will push the pistons back.
The pistons of the brake cylinder are recessed|The springs and rods are checked for wear|The support struts are cleaned of dirt|Lubricant is applied to the rubbing surfaces-->
When assembling, make sure that:
- 🔹 The pads were installed the correct way - they usually have marks on them
L(left) andR(right). - 🔹 Handbrake rod was secured without distortions - otherwise the handbrake will not work effectively.
- 🔹 The drum rotated freely after installation - if it touches the pads, it means that the pistons are not fully recessed or the pads are incorrectly adjusted.
⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the pads, the drum cannot be put back on or requires significant effort, Don't hit it with a hammer! This may cause deformation. Instead, double-check that the cylinder pistons are recessed and that the pads are installed correctly.
Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners make mistakes when working with rear brakes Almera N16. Here are the most common ones and how to prevent them:
- 🚫 Incorrect spring installation — if the upper or lower spring is twisted, the pads will jam. Always refer to photos of the original assembly.
- 🚫 Ignoring the condition of the brake cylinder - if there are traces of leakage or corrosion on it, it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the new pads will quickly fail.
- 🚫 Lack of lubrication at contact points — the pads should slide freely along the support posts. Use high temperature grease (not ordinary Lithol!).
- 🚫 Untested handbrake — after replacing the pads, be sure to adjust the tension of the handbrake cable. On Almera N16 this is done with a nut under the car, next to the lever.
- 🚫 Forget about adjusting the gap - on drum brakes, the gap between the pads and the drum should be 0.1–0.3 mm. On Almera N16 it adjusts automatically when you press the brake pedal, but after replacing the pads you need to Press the pedal 3–5 timesso that the self-regulation mechanism works.
Another typical problem is new pads squeak. On Almera N16 it is often associated with:
- 🔊 Low quality friction material (especially for budget analogues).
- 🔊 No anti-squeak plates (they should come with the pads).
- 🔊 Dirt getting between the pad and the support post - Always clean these surfaces before installation.
What to do if the pads squeak after replacement?
If the squeaking does not go away after 500 km, try:
1. Remove the pads and apply to their back side anti-squeak paste (For example, Loctite 7649).
2. Check whether the block touches the brake shield (sometimes this happens due to deformation of the shield).
3. Make sure that the drum does not have a shoulder on the working surface (if there is, it needs to be machined).
Adjusting the handbrake after replacing the pads
On Nissan Almera N16 handbrake is adjustable only mechanically — there are no electronics here. After replacing the pads, it must be tightened, otherwise the car will roll on a slope. Here's how to do it:
Raise the handbrake lever to 2–3 clicks (this is a working move).
Get under the car and find adjusting nut on the handbrake cable (it is located next to the lever, under the thermal shield).
Loosen the locknut and tighten the adjusting nut clockwise until the rear wheels lock with the lever raised.
Make sure the wheels rotate freely when the lever is lowered. If not, loosen the nut half a turn.
Tighten the locknut and check the operation of the handbrake on a slope (the car should be held at 3-4 clicks).
If after adjustment the handbrake still does not hold, the problem may be:
- 🔧 Worn cable (needs replacement).
- 🔧 Jammed mechanism in the drum (check that the lever on the shoe moves freely).
- 🔧 Improperly installed pads (they should be pressed evenly against the drum).
If the handbrake requires more than 5 clicks to lock the wheels, the cable is stretched and needs to be replaced. Do not put off this repair - a weak handbrake is dangerous when parking on a slope!
When do you need to change brake drums on Almera N16
Brake drums on Almera N16 last a long time - usually 150,000–200,000 km. However, their condition directly affects braking efficiency and pad wear. Here are signs that the drums require replacement or grooving:
- 🛠️ Deep grooves or cracks on the work surface (you can check it with your finger).
- 🛠️ Ellipse — if the drum is worn unevenly, there will be vibration when braking.
- 🛠️ Increased inner diameter - maximum permissible for Almera N16 —
201.5 mm. If more, the drum must be replaced. - 🛠️ Bead on the edge - if it exceeds 1 mm, the drum needs to be sharpened or replaced.
Grooving drums is cheaper than replacing them (approx. 1,000–1,500 rubles per pair), but only makes sense if:
- 🔹 The thickness of the drum wall after grooving will remain at least 4 mm.
- 🔹 No deep cracks or corrosion.
- 🔹 The drum has not been sharpened before (each sharpening reduces its resource).
To replace drums with Almera N16 original parts with article number are suitable Nissan 40500-9M000 (left) and Nissan 40500-9M001 (right). Analogues from Bosch (0 986 479 480) or TRW (GBS1406) also show good results.
⚠️ Attention: If you are installing new drums, they will need to be rub in to the pads. To do this, after assembly, drive 100–200 km, braking periodically. Avoid sudden stops during this period!
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads on Almera N16
Is it possible to replace the pads on only one wheel?
No, the pads are always changed in pairs on the same axis. If you replace only one side, the car will pull to the side when braking due to uneven wear. The exception is if the pads on the second wheel are almost new (for example, recently replaced).
Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the rear pads?
Pumping is only needed if you disconnected the brake lines or changed the brake cylinder. If you simply replaced the pads and recessed the cylinder pistons, bleeding is not required. However, after replacement, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir - it may drop due to the movement of the pistons.
Why did the brake pedal become soft after replacing the pads?
This is normal after replacement, as the cylinder pistons have taken a new position. Via 2–3 clicks the pedal will return to normal. If softness remains, check:
- 🔹 Brake fluid leaks.
- 🔹 Correct installation of the pads (they should not block the drum).
- 🔹 Condition of the brake hoses (they could have cracked over time).
How often should the rear pad guides be lubricated?
The guides (support posts) of the pads need to be lubricated every time you replace the pads. Use high temperature grease (For example, Slipkote 220-R DBC or Molykote G-Rapid Plus). Regular type grease Litol-24 not suitable - it burns out at high temperatures.
Is it possible to drive if the block has worn down to metal on one side?
Highly not recommended! If the friction material has worn down to the metal base:
- 🔹 Braking distance increases by 1.5–2 times.
- 🔹 Metal will quickly destroy the drum.
- 🔹 Vibration and beating may appear when braking.
In this case, the pads need to be replaced immediately, and check the drum for wear.