Replacing rear brake pads on a Nissan Almera Classic B10: detailed instructions with photos

Rear brake pads on Nissan Almera Classic B10 (2006–2012) - a consumable that requires attention every 40–60 thousand km mileage Their wear directly affects safety: squeaking when braking, increased pedal travel or vibration are clear signals for replacement. Unlike the front pads, the rear pads on this model are often equipped with drum mechanism (on basic configurations) or disc brakes (on versions with ABS). This determines the work algorithm and set of tools.

Replacing pads yourself Almera Classic allows you to save up to 3–5 thousand rubles (that’s what they charge at a service station for work). However, the process has nuances: from adjusting the hand brake to correctly installing springs in drum mechanisms. In this article - step-by-step instructions taking into account the specifics of the B10 model, including a pad compatibility table and typical beginner mistakes. If you have version with ABS or ESP, pay attention to the separate recommendations for resetting system errors after replacement.

Which pads to choose: original vs analogues

Original rear pads for Nissan Almera Classic B10 are produced under articles 40520-9M000 (drums) and 40520-4M025 (disc). Their average price is RUB 2,500–3,800 per set. However, many owners choose analogues from trusted brands that are not inferior in quality, but are 30–50% cheaper. The table below shows the best options, indicating compatibility and features:

Brand	Article	Type	Price (set), rub.	Features
Nissan (original)	40520-9M000	Drums	3 200–3 800	2 year warranty, minimal wear of the friction layer
Bosch	0 986 494 627	Drums	1 800–2 200	Improved heat resistance, suitable for aggressive driving styles
TRW	GDB1446	Disk	2 100–2 500	Low noise, compatible with ABS
Ferodo	FDB421	Drums	1 600–2 000	Soft friction material, spares drums
Akebono	ACT907A	Disk	2 400–2 800	Japanese quality, minimal dust

When choosing analogues, pay attention to ECE R90 certification — it guarantees compliance with European safety standards. For versions with ABS Avoid pads with metal inserts: they can cause false alarms. If on your Almera Classic are worth drum brakes, check the package for availability automatic slack adjuster — without it, the pads will have to be adjusted manually.

⚠️ Attention: Asbestos pads (labeled "NAO") are prohibited in the EU, but are still found on the market. They are cheaper, but harmful to health and quickly destroy brake drums.

Tools and materials: complete checklist

To replace the rear pads with Nissan Almera Classic B10 you will need a specialized tool. Without it, the risk of damaging mechanisms or incorrectly installing parts increases significantly. Below is the minimum set, as well as optional devices to simplify the work:

Jack and stops (required!) | Wheel wrench (size 19 or 21) | 10, 12, 14 mm sockets| Long-nose pliers (for springs)| Phillips and flathead screwdrivers| Guide lubricant (e.g. Slipkote 220-R DBC)|WD-40 or equivalent for cleaning|New pads (set per axle)|Gloves and safety glasses-->

Additionally for drum brakes will come in handy:

• 🔧 Spring puller (For example, Kukko 21-1) - simplifies the dismantling of tension springs.
• 🔧 Adjustment screwdriver for automatic expansion mechanism.
• 🔧 Metal brush - to clean the drum from carbon deposits.

For disc brakes may require:

• 🔧 Special key for pressing in the piston (For example, Lisle 25800).
• 🔧 Torque wrench — for precise tightening of guides (torque 25–30 Nm).

Drum|Disc|I don’t know|Another option-->

Don't skimp on guide lubricant! Cheap analogues (such as Litola) do not withstand high temperatures and may jam the caliper. The best option is copper paste or specialized molybdenum-based compounds. Also prepare DOT-4 brake fluid (1 liter) - it may need to be topped up after replacing the pads.

Preparing the vehicle: steps before replacement

Before proceeding with dismantling, it is necessary to properly prepare the car. This minimizes risks and simplifies access to mechanisms. Follow the algorithm:

1. Place the machine on level ground with hard surface. Asphalt or concrete are ideal options. Avoid dirt or gravel as the jack may sag.
2. Lock the front wheels stops (you can use heavy bars or special “shoes”).
3. Loosen the rear wheel nutswithout removing them completely. This will make it easier to dismantle after jacking it up.
4. Raise the rear of the car and install safety supports. Never work under a machine that is supported only by a jack!
5. Remove the wheel and clean the brake mechanism from dirt using a wire brush and WD-40.

If on your Almera Classic installed disc brakes, before removing the caliper, unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir - this will prevent excess pressure when pressing the piston. For drum brakes, this step is not necessary, but it is recommended to check the fluid level after completion of the work.

⚠️ Attention: If you notice leaks of brake fluid on the caliper or wheel cylinder, replacing the pads should be postponed until the problem is resolved. Operating a vehicle with a leaky brake system is prohibited!

Step-by-step replacement of rear pads (drum type)

Drum brakes on Nissan Almera Classic B10 are considered more labor-intensive to maintain than disk ones. The main difficulty is to properly dismantle and install the springs, as well as adjust the gap between the pads and the drum. Follow the instructions:

1. Remove the brake drum:
   • Unscrew the guide pins (if any) or knock down the drum with a rubber mallet, tapping the edge.
   • If the drum cannot be removed, check for the presence of a retaining screw (sometimes it is hidden under a plug).
2. Remove old pads:
   • Using pliers, remove the upper and lower tension springs.
   • Disconnect the handbrake rod from the shoe lever.
   • Remove the pads along with the spacer bar.
3. Install new pads:
   • Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the contact points between the pads and the backing plate.
   • Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order, starting with the spacer bar.
   • Make sure the handbrake lever moves freely and is not stuck.
4. Adjust the gap:
   • Turn the adjusting wheel on the spacer bar until the shoes rest against the drum.
   • Move the pads back 3-5 clicks (this is the optimal clearance).

After assembly, press the brake pedal several times until the pads are in working position. Then check the travel of the handbrake lever - it should rise by 4–6 clicks until the wheels are completely locked. If the stroke is less or more, adjust the cable tension.

What to do if the drum cannot be removed?

If the drum is stuck to the hub, use a penetrating lubricant (for example, Liqui Moly Rostloser) and a wooden block as a lever. Hit the edge of the drum with a hammer through the block in a top-to-bottom direction. Do not hit the center as this may damage the bearing. If this does not help, you will have to unscrew the hub nut (you will need a 30 mm socket and a force of ~100 Nm).

Step-by-step replacement of rear pads (disc type)

Disc brakes on Almera Classic B10 (installed on versions with ABS) are easier to replace, but require care when working with the caliper. The main task is to press the piston correctly and avoid misalignment of the pads. Algorithm of actions:

1. Remove the caliper:
   • Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (usually 14 mm).
   • Hang the caliper on a wire to the spring - do not leave it hanging on the brake hose!
2. Remove old pads:
   • Remove the retaining clips (if any) and pull out the pads.
   • Clean the guides of old grease and corrosion.
3. Press in the caliper piston:
   • Use a special wrench or sliding pliers. Turn the piston clockwise (look from the caliper side).
   • If the piston does not recess, check the brake fluid level - if necessary, pump out some with a syringe.
4. Install new pads:
   • Apply lubricant to the guides and the back of the pads (except for the friction surface!).
   • Make sure that the pads are symmetrical and do not touch the disc when loose.

After installation, press the brake pedal several times until the piston is in working position. Then check the tightness of the system: if fluid is oozing from the caliper, the cuffs will need to be replaced.

Adjusting the handbrake and checking operation

An incorrectly adjusted handbrake is a common cause of squeaking and uneven pad wear. On Nissan Almera Classic B10 adjustment is carried out through the tension of the cable under the passenger compartment. Procedure:

1. Raise the handbrake lever 4–6 clicks (the norm for this model).
2. Check rear wheel rotation - they must be blocked.
3. If the lever travel is too large or small:
   • Loosen the locknut on the cable equalizer (under the center tunnel).
   • Tighten or unscrew the adjusting nut to achieve the desired tension.
   • Tighten the locknut and check the operation of the handbrake.

After adjustment, perform a test drive:

• 🚗 Speed up to 30–40 km/h and brake sharply. The pedal should not sink or vibrate.
• 🚗 Check that there is no beating in the steering wheel - it indicates deformation of the brake disc.
• 🚗 Make sure that the car is held on a slope (15–20%) with the handbrake tightened.

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the pads the brake pedal becomes soft or goes to the floor, stop driving immediately! This is a sign of air getting into the system and the brakes will need to be bled.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing rear pads with Almera Classic B10. Here are the most common ones and ways to prevent them:

• 🔧 Incorrect tightening torque caliper bolts or bracket. Consequences: misaligned pads and uneven wear. Solution: Use a torque wrench (25-30 Nm for caliper, 80-100 Nm for wheel nut).
• 🔧 Ignoring guide lubrication. This leads to caliper jamming and accelerated pad wear. Solution: Apply lubricant only on guides, avoiding contact with friction surfaces.
• 🔧 Incorrect spring installation on drum brakes. The shoes may jam or move away from the drum. Solution: Follow the assembly diagram (photos before disassembly will help!).
• 🔧 Forgetting to bleed the brakes after pressing the piston. The pedal becomes soft. Solution: Bleeding is required if fluid has leaked from the reservoir.

Another common problem is squeaking pads after replacement. The reasons may be different:

• 🔊 Low-quality friction material (especially for cheap analogues).
• 🔊 Lack of anti-squeak plates (if they are provided for in the design).
• 🔊 Grease gets on the working surface of the pads.

If the squeak does not disappear after 200–300 km, check:

• Condition of brake discs/drums (possible grooves or cracks).
• The presence of a gap between the pad and the disc (should be ~0.1 mm).
• Caliper Mounting - Sometimes loose bolts cause vibration.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing pads

Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?

No, pads are always replaced in pairs on the same axle (left and right wheel). Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to skidding during emergency braking. The exception is if the pad is mechanically damaged (for example, the friction layer has broken off), and the second one is in perfect condition.

How often should you check your rear pads?

Recommended inspection interval: every 20 thousand km or once a year. However, there are signs that require an unscheduled inspection:

• Creaking or whistling noise when braking at low speed.
• Increased brake pedal travel.
• Vibrations in the steering wheel or body when braking.
• The indicator came on ABS or BRAKE on the dashboard.

On Almera Classic With drum brakes, pad wear can be checked through the inspection window in the support panel (if provided for by the design).

What should I do if the ABS light comes on after replacing the pads?

This is a typical situation for versions with ABS. Reasons:

1. Dirt on the sensor ABS (located next to the hub).
2. Damage to the sensor wire when removing the caliper.
3. Incorrect pad installation, causing the disc to touch the sensor.

Solution:

• Clean the sensor and check the gap between it and the comb on the hub (should be 0.5–1 mm).
• Test the sensor wiring with a multimeter (resistance should be 800–1400 Ohms).
• Reset the error ABS using a scanner (for example, ELM327) or by disconnecting the battery terminal for 10 minutes.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the rear pads?

Bleeding is required only in two cases:

1. If, when pressing the caliper piston, brake fluid flowed out of the reservoir.
2. If there was an air leak in the system (for example, when the brake hose was disconnected).

For Almera Classic B10 pumping order: right rear → left rear → right front → left front. Use brake fluid DOT-4 and do not allow air to enter the system.

Can I use pads from other Nissan models?

Theoretically on Almera Classic B10 suitable pads from Nissan Note (E11) And Micra (K12) the same year of manufacture, but there are nuances:

• For drum brakes, pads from Renault Logan first generation (item 7701207160), but the spacer may need to be adjusted.
• Disc pads from Nissan Tiida (C11) fit in size, but have a different composition of friction material (the braking distance may increase).

We recommend sticking to original articles or certified analogues from the table above. Saving on pads often results in expensive repairs to the brake system.