Replacing stabilizer bushings on a Nissan Murano Z52: detailed instructions with photos and tips

Anti-roll bar bushings on Nissan Murano Z52 - a consumable that wears out faster than many people think. Even with careful driving, rubber elements lose elasticity after 30–50 thousand km, and on Russian roads their service life is reduced to 20 thousand km. Knock in the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces, squeaks when turning the steering wheel or “floating” stability at speed - sure signs that it’s time to change the bushings. Car service centers charge from 3 to 8 thousand rubles for this work, but if you have the tools and an hour of free time, you can do it yourself.

In this article - step-by-step replacement algorithm taking into account the peculiarities Murano Z52 (including restyled versions 2014–2020), a list of necessary tools, recommendations for the selection of spare parts and critical nuances that even experienced craftsmen miss. For example, why you can’t use WD-40 to treat new bushings and how to properly fix the stabilizer during installation to avoid premature wear.

Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings on a Nissan Murano Z52

The first symptoms of a malfunction are often attributed to shock absorbers or wheel bearings. However, the stabilizer bushings have characteristic "markers":

• 🔊 Knocking or clicking noises when driving over small bumps (for example, speed bumps) at speeds up to 30 km/h. The sound comes from the front or rear, depending on the location of the worn bushings.
• 🚗 "Fuzzy" control: the car holds its trajectory worse during sharp maneuvers, especially at high speed. This is due to the stabilizer play.
• 🔄 Creaking sound when turning the steering wheel (usually in the parking lot). Occurs due to friction of the metal stabilizer against the destroyed rubber of the bushing.
• 💨 Uneven tire wear. If the bushings are “tired,” the stabilizer distributes the load ineffectively, which leads to the tread “biting” on one side.

On Murano Z52 The front bushings wear out faster than the rear ones due to the greater load on the front axle. You can check their condition visually: Inspect the rubber for cracks, tears or deformation. If the bushing is “flattened” or there are visible traces of oil/dirt on it, it’s definitely time to change it.

⚠️ Attention: On Murano Z52 With a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, wear of the bushings can be disguised as a faulty steering rack. Before replacing, check the play in the steering - if it is missing, the problem is in the stabilizer.

Which bushings to choose: original vs analogues

Original bushings from Nissan have articles:

• 🔧 Front: 54501-4M00A (left and right are the same).
• 🔧 Rear: 54501-4M01A (also universal).

The cost of one pair is from 2,500 to 4,000 rubles. However, many owners Murano Z52 they choose analogues that are not inferior in quality, but are 2-3 times cheaper.

Brand	Article (front/back)	Price per pair, ₽	Features
Nissan (original)	54501-4M00A/54501-4M01A	2 500–4 000	Soft rubber, long service life, but high price.
Febi	22416/22417	1 200–1 800	Tougher than the original, but wear-resistant. Suitable for aggressive driving.
Lemforder	29778 01/29779 01	1 500–2 200	Optimal price/quality ratio. The tires are close to the original.
Sidem	50315/50316	900–1 400	A budget option, but the first 500 km can creak.

Selection advice: If you drive mainly around the city, take Lemforder or original. For off-road and frequent gravel trips it is better Febi - their rubber is tougher and retains its shape longer. Avoid cheap Chinese analogues (for example, TRW or Moog for this model) - they often have inaccurate geometry and quickly crack.

Necessary tools and preparation for replacement

To work you will need:

• 🔧 Socket wrenches by 14 mm and 17 mm (for front bushings).
• 🔧 10 mm head with extension (for rear bushings).
• 🔧 Ratchet handle and a collar.
• 🔧 Mount or puller for stabilizer (you can do without it, but it will be more difficult).
• 🧴 Penetrating lubricant (For example, Liqui Moly LM-40, but not WD-40!).
• 🧤 Rubber hammer (for installing new bushings).
• 🔦 Flashlight or lamp (underhood lighting).

Vehicle preparation:

1. Install Murano Z52 onto a level surface and secure the rear wheels with chocks.
2. Loosen the front wheel nuts (if changing front hubs) or rear wheel nuts (for rear hubs).
3. Raise the car with a jack and place it on supports. Do not operate a jack without insurance!
4. Remove the wheel from the desired side.

Loosen the wheel nuts|Put the car on supports|Remove the wheel|Apply lubricant to the fastenings (not WD-40!)|Prepare new bushings and tools-->

⚠️ Attention: On Murano Z52 with the system 4WD Before replacing the rear bushings, be sure to move the selector to the 2WD (if there is such an option). This will unlock the rear axle and make access to the stabilizer easier.

Step-by-step instructions: replacing the front stabilizer bushings

Front bushings on Murano Z52 are attached to the subframe with two bolts. The main difficulty is access to them, since the engine protection and pipes are in the way.

Step 1. Removing the old bushing:

1. Remove the plastic protection under the engine (4 x 10mm bolts).
2. Apply penetrating lubricant to the bushing bracket mounting bolts (Part No. 54520-4M00A).
3. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bracket in place. If the bolts are stuck, use an impact wrench or heat them with a hair dryer (not open fire!).
4. Remove the bracket and pull out the old bushing. It may “stick” to the stabilizer - carefully pry it off with a pry bar.

Step 2. Installing a new bushing:

1. Clean the seat on the stabilizer from dirt and rust. Don't use sandpaper - it leaves scratches that will accelerate the wear of the new bushing.
2. Apply to the inside surface of the new bushing silicone grease (For example, Molykote 111). This will make installation easier and prevent squeaks. WD-40 or lithol are not suitable here - they destroy the rubber!
3. Install the bushing onto the stabilizer so that its notches match the shape of the bracket. On Murano Z52 The front hub has an asymmetrical profile - don't mix up the sides!
4. Attach the bracket with bolts and tighten them torque 25–30 Nm (do not overtighten!).

Step 3. Check:

After installation, rock the stabilizer by hand - there should be no play. If the bushing rotates, it means that the bracket is not tightened properly or the bushing is installed crookedly.

Features of replacing rear bushings on Murano Z52

Rear bushings on Murano Z52 changed less frequently, but the process is more difficult due to the tight space and the need to remove part of the trunk trim.

Key differences from front hubs:

• 🔧 Attaching the bracket - one 17mm bolt (front) and a 10 mm nut (rear).
• 🔧 Access to the bolts is blocked by the fuel tank - you will have to bend its protection or remove part of the casing.
• 🔧 Rear stabilizer on Murano Z52 thinner than the front one, so the bushings are softer and wear out faster when overloaded.

Replacement algorithm:

1. Remove the plastic trim in the trunk (it is attached to 4 pistons).
2. Unscrew the bracket fastening bolt (17 mm) and nut (10 mm). If the nut rotates with the bolt, secure it with a second wrench.
3. Remove the bracket and pull out the bushing. Pay attention to its condition - if the rubber is crumbled, check the stabilizer for corrosion.
4. Install a new bushing (part number 54501-4M01A) and secure the bracket. Tightening torque - 20 Nm (it is dangerous to overtighten the rear bushings!).

Nuance: On vehicles with air suspension (Murano Z52 in top trim levels) before replacing the rear bushings, it is necessary turn off the compressor (fuse F37 in the block under the hood). Otherwise, the suspension may spontaneously change height during operation.

What to do if the bracket fastening bolt breaks?

If a bolt breaks off, do not try to drill it out right away. First try:

1. Heat the mounting area with a hairdryer (the rubber of the bracket may shrink and release the thread).

2. Use an extractor or left-hand thread (cut with a tap M10×1.25).

3. As a last resort, drill and cut a new thread M12, but this will require replacing the bracket.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when replacing bushings with Murano Z52. Here are the most critical ones:

1. Using WD-40 to lubricate the bushings. This liquid corrodes the rubber, and new bushings will last a maximum of 5 thousand km. Use only silicone grease or Molykote.
2. Re-tightening the bracket bolts. On Murano Z52 tightening torque of the front bushings - 30 Nm, rear - 20 Nm. Exceeding will lead to deformation of the rubber.
3. Installing bushings without cleaning the stabilizer. Sand and rust on metal act as an abrasive, reducing the life of the bushings by 3 times.
4. Ignoring play in the stabilizer struts. If the racks (54520-4M00B) are worn out, new bushings will not solve the knocking problem.
5. Replacement of only one bushing. Bushings are always replaced in pairs (left + right), even if one looks fine. Different wear will cause the suspension to become unbalanced.

⚠️ Attention: On Murano Z52 with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, after replacing the bushings, vibration may appear on the steering wheel when braking. This is due to wear on the silent blocks of the levers. If the vibration does not disappear after 200 km, check their condition.

When to contact the service: 3 cases

Although replacing bushings with Murano Z52 is within the capabilities of most car owners, there are situations when it is better to trust the professionals:

• 🔧 The bracket mounting bolts have broken off. Drilling and cutting new threads requires special tools (for example, a ratchet with a left-hand thread).
• 🔧 The stabilizer is rusty. If it has deep corrosion pits, the entire assembly will need to be replaced, which is more difficult than it seems.
• 🔧 After replacement the knocking noise remained. This may indicate wear on the stabilizer links, silent blocks, or even wheel bearings. Diagnosis requires experience.

Average cost of replacing bushings in service for Murano Z52:

• Front: 3,000–5,000 rubles (with work).
• Rear: 4,000–6,000 rubles (due to difficulty of access).

If you decide to go to a service center, choose one that has experience working with Nissan and there is torque wrench - this is a guarantee that the bolts will not be overtightened.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing bushings on Murano Z52

Is it possible to drive with knocking stabilizer bushings?

Technically yes, but it's dangerous. Worn bushings do not fix the stabilizer, which leads to:

• Deterioration of controllability at speed (risk of skidding).
• Accelerated wear of stabilizer struts and silent blocks.
• Uneven wear of tires.

On Murano Z52 with a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, driving with broken bushings can lead to stabilizer break during a sharp maneuver.

How often do you need to change bushings on a Murano Z52?

Service life depends on operating conditions:

• City (asphalt): 40–60 thousand km.
• Mixed cycle (city + gravel): 25–40 thousand km.
• Aggressive driving or off-road: 15–25 thousand km.

Check the condition of the bushings every 10 thousand km or when knocking noises occur. On Murano Z52 with air suspension, the bushings wear out 20% faster due to constant changes in ground clearance.

What is the difference between hubs for Murano Z52 pre-restyle and restyle?

On Murano Z52 after restyling in 2014, the shape of the front bushings changed:

• Dorestyle (2008–2014): article number 54501-4M00A, symmetrical profile.
• Restyle (2014–2020): article number 54501-4M00B, asymmetrical profile with reinforced side.

The rear hubs remained unchanged (54501-4M01A). Installing bushings from pre-restayl to restyle will lead to play and squeaks.

Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after replacement?

Officially, no, since the bushings do not affect the wheel alignment angles. However, in practice:

• If you removed the stabilizer arms or struts, wheel alignment required.
• If you just changed the bushings, check the camber after 500 km. On Murano Z52 After replacing the rear bushings, sometimes the toe-in “goes away” due to the displacement of the subframe.

The cost of checking the wheel alignment is 1,000–1,500 rubles, which is cheaper than a new set of tires due to uneven wear.

Is it possible to restore old bushings?

No, it's no use. The rubber of the bushings loses its elasticity at the molecular level, and no lubricants or “rubber restorers” will return it to its factory properties. Moreover, attempts to restore the bushings (for example, coat them with sealant) will lead to:

• Increased wear of the stabilizer.
• Loss of controllability due to unpredictable behavior of tires.
• Damage to the fastening bracket (if the bushing “sticks”).

The only correct option is to replace with new ones.