The sound of a hum that increases as the car accelerates is a classic symptom of a malfunction of the unit responsible for rotating the wheel. For owners Nissan Almera this problem becomes especially relevant after a mileage of 100-120 thousand kilometers, when the service life of factory parts comes to an end. Ignoring such signals can lead to wheel jamming or complete destruction of the hub while driving, which creates a critical emergency situation.
Replacement process hubs and bearing requires not only a set of tools, but also an understanding of the suspension design of a particular model. Unlike some other cars, Nissan Almera (especially the second generation G15) it is often necessary to remove the entire assembly in order to properly press in a new part. This significantly changes the operating algorithm compared to simpler designs, where the bearing is changed directly in the wheel hub.
Let's consider in detail how to do this work yourself, which spare parts are best to choose and what nuances you should pay special attention to when disassembling and assembling the unit. Correctly carried out repairs will ensure silence in the cabin and safety on the road for the coming years of operation.
Diagnosis of faults and selection of spare parts
Before you pick up the keys, you need to make sure that the problem is wheel bearing, and not in the ball joint or constant velocity joint (CV joint). A characteristic hum that changes tone when turning is the main indicator. If the sound is heard when driving straight, but becomes louder when turning left, it means the right bearing is worn out, and vice versa.
When choosing a new part, it is important to understand the difference between bearing assembled and a separator with rollers. For Nissan Almera It is recommended to change the entire assembly, since disassembling and repressing individual elements rarely gives a guaranteed result for a long time. Manufacturers like Koyo, Timken or SKF offer reliable solutions that often exceed the quality of original parts supplied in Nissan boxes.
- 🔍 Pay attention to the presence of an ABS sensor in the kit if your car is equipped with an anti-lock brake system.
- 💰 The original is often more expensive than its analogues, but the quality of steel from trusted brands (Koyo) may be even higher.
- 🛠️ Check the markings on the package: the part number must exactly match the VIN code of your car.
Sometimes owners try to save money and buy only the internal element, but this is the wrong way. The outer race often becomes deformed when removed, and even a new bearing will quickly fail in an old housing. Replacement assembly - This is the only reasonable option for self-repair.
⚠️ Attention: Do not buy cheap bearings from trays in markets without a guarantee. On Nissan Almera the load on the front axle is high, and low-quality steel can collapse after 2-3 thousand kilometers.
Preparing tools and work area
To carry out the work, you will need a spacious box or a flat area with a pit. A standard set of wrenches may not be enough as the hub nuts are often over-tightened. Be sure to prepare a powerful wrench, extensions and, preferably, a hydraulic jack, since you will have to lift the car quite high for ease of work.
The most important tool for this task is puller for pressing out the bearing. Without it, replacement is almost impossible, unless you plan to knock out the part with a hammer (which is strictly not recommended due to the risk of damage hubs). You will also need a set of sockets, including 19, 21, 24 and 32 mm, as well as a torque wrench to ensure all connections are properly tightened.
- 🔨 Powerful hammer and assembly tool for removing brake calipers and discs.
- 💣 A wheel wrench with a long handle or extension pipe for unscrewing the hub nut.
- ⚙️ Bearing puller (hydraulic or mechanical press) for installing a new part.
Don't forget about protective equipment: gloves and goggles. Handling rusty bolts and heavy metal components requires caution. Also prepare brake cleaner and lithium grease to treat the threaded connections before assembly.
- Original (Nissan)
- Brand equivalent (Koyo/SKF)
- Budget analogue
- I only buy to order
Algorithm for dismantling the old node
We begin work by unscrewing the hub nut. It is usually 32mm in size and torqued to around 200Nm, so it may not budge without strong leverage. If the wheel is not yet removed, have a helper press the brake pedal to secure the wheel and carefully remove the nut. Then jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Next you need to remove the brake caliper. Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper from the bottom and hang it on a wire to the suspension spring so as not to damage the brake hose. After this, remove the brake disc. Sometimes it sticks to the hub and you have to carefully knock it off with a hammer through a wooden spacer or use a puller.
The next step is to disconnect the ball joint and steering tip. You need to loosen the fastening nuts, knock the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle and remove the steering tip. The steering knuckle is now free and can be moved to the side by disconnecting the drive (axle shaft). Be careful not to damage the CV boot.
- 🔧 Use penetrating lubricant (WD-40) an hour before starting work to make it easier to loosen rusty bolts.
- 📏 Remember or photograph the position of the adjusting washers, if they are included in the design.
- 🚫 Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper unless absolutely necessary.
Now the unit is completely free and can be removed from the car for further work on the workbench. This simplifies the process of pressing out the old and pressing in the new bearing, since access to the unit will be free from all sides.
☑️ Preparing to remove the knot
Pressing in a new bearing
This is the most critical stage of work. The old bearing needs to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. It is better to do this on a removable unit using a special puller. It is important to press strictly on the outer race of the old bearing so as not to damage the seat in the fist. After removing the outer race, remove the retaining ring from the inside.
New bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. To do this, a mandrel is used, which rests on the outer frame of the new part. Never press on the inner race or cage when pressing, this will instantly destroy the bearing! The pressure should be even and smooth. If you don't have a hydraulic press, you can use a powerful clamp with a set of adapters.
After installing the bearing into the fist, it is necessary to press the inner race onto the hub. This is done carefully so as not to damage the seals and ABS sensor. Make sure the hub fits into the bearing all the way. Then install the retaining ring and secure it.
- 🛑 Do not use a hammer to directly press the bearing - vibration may damage the rollers.
- 🧼 Clean the seat in the fist from rust and dirt before installing a new part.
- 🔩 Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the mounting surfaces to facilitate assembly.
After completing the operations on the workbench, the assembly is installed back on the vehicle. This makes the process much easier since you don't have to manipulate a heavy press directly underneath the machine.
What to do if there is no puller?
If you don't have a professional puller, you can try using two bolts and nuts as a makeshift press. Screw the bolts into the caliper holes, put on the nuts and push down on the bearing through the spacer, tightening the nuts evenly. However, the risk of damaging parts with this method is higher.
Installation and final assembly
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. First, the hub with bearing is put on the drive and inserted into the steering knuckle. Secure the ball joint and tie rod by tightening the nuts. Install the brake disc and caliper. Don't forget to check the condition of the CV joint boots and replace them if necessary.
The main hub nut is tightened to a certain torque. For Nissan Almera this value is usually around 180-200 Nm. Undertightening can lead to play and rapid wear, and overtightening can lead to bearing deformation. Use a torque wrench to avoid mistakes. After tightening the nut, tighten it or install a new stopper, if such a design is provided.
Put on the wheel, lower the car and finally tighten the wheel bolts. It is important to check the operation of the brake system before setting out on the road. Press the brake pedal several times until the pads are in place. Spin the wheel by hand - it should rotate freely and without noise.
Before tightening the hub nut, be sure to place the vehicle on a level surface and tighten the nut while the wheels are touching the ground to prevent the hub from becoming misaligned.
Technical nuances and common errors
Many mechanics make the mistake of trying to install a new bearing without replacing the retaining ring. The old ring is often deformed during dismantling and does not provide proper fixation, which can lead to the bearing flying out. Always use new snap rings, which are often included with quality parts.
Another common problem is damage to the ABS sensor during removal or installation. The sensor is fragile and its wire can rub against the body or suspension elements. Before assembly, check the integrity of the wiring and the security of the sensor. If the sensor is damaged, the ABS system will generate an error, which will reduce driving safety.
It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the seals. If the oil seal is damaged during removal, it must be replaced, otherwise lubricant will leak out of the bearing and dirt will get inside. This will reduce the service life of the new part to a minimum.
| Parameter | Meaning/Description |
|---|---|
| Hub nut tightening torque | 180–200 Nm |
| Wheel bolt tightening torque | 100–110 Nm |
| Bearing type | Double Row Roller Ball |
| Availability of ABS sensor | Mandatory (for versions with ABS) |
| Recommended replacement interval | 100,000 – 150,000 km |
Correct tightening of all bolts and checking for play during the assembly stage guarantees long and trouble-free operation of the vehicle. Don't neglect these steps, even if everything seems to be going well.
Using a torque wrench when tightening the hub nut is essential to prevent premature failure of the unit.
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions
In this section we have collected answers to questions that owners most often have. Nissan Almera when planning repairs.
Is it possible to replace only one bearing?
Technically it is possible, but experts recommend replacing the bearings in pairs (both front or both rear), since they have the same mileage and wear. This will ensure uniform behavior of the car on the road.
How long does it take to replace?
For an experienced technician, replacing one front bearing takes about 1.5–2 hours. It may take a beginner 3-4 hours, especially if you have to deal with stuck bolts and search for the right tool.
What to do if the hub nut does not unscrew?
Use a wrench extension to increase leverage. Before doing this, generously treat the threads with penetrating lubricant. In extreme cases, you can heat the nut with a hair dryer, but carefully so as not to damage adjacent parts.
Do I need to do a wheel alignment after replacement?
Yes, after removing and installing suspension elements that affect the wheel alignment angles, it is imperative to adjust the wheel alignment to avoid uneven tire wear.
Why does a new bearing hum immediately after replacement?
This may be a consequence of improper pressing (misalignment), damage during installation, or a defective part. Also check to see if the hub nut is overtightened, which will block the rotation of the internal components.