Replacing shock absorber struts with Nissan Almera Classic (N16) is a task that every owner of this car faces sooner or later. With a mileage of over 80–100 thousand km, the original struts lose their effectiveness: the car begins to “nod off” when braking, holds the road worse when cornering, and after passing speed bumps the body sways for a long time. But don’t rush to go to the service center: if you have the tools and minimal skills, you can do the work yourself, saving 5–8 thousand rubles.
In this article we will look at all stages of replacement — from fault diagnosis to final wheel alignment adjustment. You will learn which racks are best to choose (original or analogues), what tools are needed, and how to avoid common mistakes, for example, Damage to brake hoses when removing rear struts. We will pay special attention to the nuances of working with the front suspension MacPherson and rear multi-link, which often cause difficulties for beginners.
Signs of strut wear: when is it time to change?
Shock absorber struts on Almera Classic wear out gradually, and many drivers get used to the deterioration in handling without noticing the problem. Here are the key symptoms that indicate the need for replacement:
- 🚗 Increased braking distance — the car “dives” forward during sharp braking, and the rear wheels can bounce.
- 🌀 Body rocking — after driving over bumps, the car makes 2-3 extra oscillations, instead of immediately stabilizing.
- 🔧 Knocks in the suspension - especially noticeable on small bumps. Often confused with wear of silent blocks or balls.
- 💧 Oil leaks on the rack body - a sign of destruction of the seal and loss of tightness.
- 🛣️ Moving to the side when driving on a flat road (may be accompanied by uneven tire wear).
If you notice at least 2-3 of these signs, it's time to get diagnosed. The simplest test: press hard on the car fender and release it quickly. If the body makes more than one complete oscillation - struts definitely need replacing.
⚠️ Attention: On Almera Classic with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, the wear of the struts is often accompanied by the destruction of the support bearings. It is recommended to change them comprehensively, otherwise after 10–20 thousand km a knock will appear in the front suspension.
- Every 10 thousand km
- Once a year
- Only when knocking occurs
- Never checked
Which racks to choose: original vs analogues
There are more than 20 options for racks on the market. Nissan Almera Classic (N16), but not all of them are equally reliable. Original racks from Nissan (articles: 54300-4M000 - front, 54500-4M000 - rear) are expensive (from 8 thousand rubles per piece), but guarantee a resource of 100-120 thousand km. However, many owners prefer analogues from trusted brands.
| Brand | Article (front/back) | Price, rub. | Resource, thousand km | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kayaba (KYB) | 343307 / 344374 |
4 500 / 5 200 | 80–100 | Stiffer than the original, holds the road well |
| Monroe | G4502 / G4503 |
5 000 / 5 500 | 70–90 | Soft, comfortable for the city |
| Sachs | 313 514 / 313 515 |
6 000 / 6 500 | 90–110 | Optimal price/quality balance |
| Boge | 18-0536 / 18-0537 |
4 800 / 5 300 | 60–80 | Budget option, suitable for a quiet ride |
When choosing, pay attention to shock absorber type:
- 🔹 Oily - cheaper, but less effective under high loads (for example, on the highway). Suitable for urban use.
- 🔹 Gas-oil - more expensive, but cope better with dynamic driving and difficult conditions (dirt roads, frequent overloads).
For Almera Classic with a mileage of over 150 thousand km, we recommend gas-oil struts - they retain their characteristics longer even with worn silent blocks and ball bearings.
Before purchasing, check the compatibility of the racks with your modification Almera Classic. On vehicles with an engine 1.8 (QG18DE) the front suspension is heavier, so struts with reinforced springs are required (for example, KYB Excel-G).
Tools and preparation for replacement
To replace the racks yourself you will need special tool, which is not in the standard car owner’s kit. Here's the full list:
- 🔧 Stand remover (for disassembling the front struts). You can rent one or make a homemade one from a pipe and a bolt.
- 🔨 Jack and stops — be sure to insure your car with stands!
- 🔩 Socket wrenches at 17, 19, 21 and 22 mm (for fastening racks and levers).
- 🔧 6 mm hexagon - to fix the shock absorber rod when unscrewing the nut.
- 🛠️ WD-40 or equivalent - stuck bolts on Almera Classic meet often.
- 🔧 Torque wrench — for correct tightening of fasteners (torque 40–60 Nm).
Also prepare:
- 🧤 Gloves and safety glasses (dust from worn stands is harmful to the eyes).
- 📦 New anthers and bumpers (it is recommended to change them together with the racks).
- 🔧 Hammer and chisel - may be needed to remove stuck nuts.
Remove the battery terminal (to avoid short circuit)
Loosen the wheel bolts (while the car is on the ground)
Raise the car on a jack and secure it with jack stands
Treat all threaded connections with WD-40 1–2 hours before work.
Prepare new racks and related parts -->
If you are changing stands for the first time, take photographs of the location of all fasteners and wires before dismantling. This will help avoid assembly errors. Also check the condition in advance brake hoses - on Almera Classic they often rub against the rack brackets.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing the rear struts, be sure to disconnect the ABS sensor (if installed) and remove the handbrake cable from the bracket. Otherwise, the wiring may be damaged during dismantling!
Step-by-step replacement of front struts
Front suspension MacPherson on Almera Classic Requires careful disassembly. Follow the instructions:
Remove the wheel and clean the arch from dirt. Unscrew the nut securing the strut rod to the support bearing (you will need a 6 mm hex to secure the rod).
Disconnect the brake hose from the bracket on the rack. Be careful - don't bend it!
Unscrew the bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle (2 bolts 19 mm). You may need a hammer to knock them out.
Remove the 3 nuts securing the strut support to the body (13 mm wrench). After this, the stand can be removed as an assembly.
To disassemble the stand, use a stand remover:
- Secure the stand in a vice.
- Compress the spring with the strut remover until the support bearing is released.
- Unscrew the rod nut and remove the support, spring, boot and bump stop.
When assembling a new rack:
- 🔹 Install new bumper and boot (even if the old ones look fine).
- 🔹 Check it out support bearing condition - if it plays or creaks, replace it.
- 🔹Tighten the rod nut only after installing the rack on the car (otherwise the spring may jump off).
What to do if the stem nut does not unscrew?
If the stem nut is stuck, try the following:
1. Treat it with WD-40 and wait 10-15 minutes.
2. Use a wrench extension (the lever will increase the torque).
3. Lightly hit the key with a hammer and try to “break” the nut.
4. As a last resort, cut off the nut with a grinder (carefully so as not to damage the threads on the rod).
After installing the new rack do not completely tighten the bolts securing the steering knuckleuntil the car is lowered onto its wheels. This will avoid distortions.
Replacing rear struts: features and difficulties
Rear pillars Almera Classic They are easier to change than the front ones, but there are some nuances here. The main difficulty is access to top mount, which is hidden under the trunk trim. You also need to handle it carefully brake hoses and handbrake cable.
Work order:
Remove the trunk trim from the side of the rack being replaced. Under it you will find three nuts securing the strut to the body (13 mm wrench).
Unscrew the lower rack mounting to the lever (19 mm bolt). Threads often stick here - treat with WD-40 in advance.
Disconnect the brake hose from the bracket on the rack and remove the handbrake cable from the guide.
Remove the stand complete with spring. On the rear axle Almera Classic the spring does not require pre-compression (unlike the front one).
When installing a new rack:
- 🔹 Check it out condition of the lever silent blocks - if they are worn out, the rack will last less.
- 🔹 Make sure that compression progress buffer (the bump stop) is installed correctly - it should fit snugly against the spring cup.
- 🔹 Tighten the fastening nuts only after lowering the car onto its wheels (tightening torque 45–55 Nm).
⚠️ Attention: On the rear axle Almera Classic often break down brake hose mounting brackets to the counter. Before installing a new rack, check their integrity and replace if necessary (part number: 40520-4M000).
After replacing the rear struts, be sure to check the operation of the handbrake! If the cable was skewed during dismantling, it may require adjustment.
Wheel alignment adjustment after replacement
Replacing racks always requires subsequent wheel alignment adjustment, even if you have installed original parts. On Almera Classic Violation of wheel alignment angles leads to:
- 🔹 Rapid and uneven tire wear (especially the inner edge).
- 🔹 Pulling the car to the side when driving in a straight line.
- 🔹 Deterioration of exchange rate stability at high speed.
The cost of adjustment at a service station is from 1,500 to 2,500 rubles. If you want to save money, you can try adjusting the camber yourself using:
- 📏 Ruler or laser level - to measure the distance between the wheels from above and below.
- 🔧 Eccentric bolts in the mounting of the levers (on the front suspension).
- 📱 Mobile applications (For example, Alignment Check for Android).
However, please note: Precise adjustment is only possible on the bench. The independent method is only suitable for a rough check after replacing the racks.
Normal angles for Nissan Almera Classic:
- 🔹 Camber:
0° ± 30'(front axle),-1° ± 30'(rear axle). - 🔹 Toe:
0° ± 10'(front axle),0°10' ± 10'(rear axle).
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing struts with Almera Classic. Here are the most common:
| Error | Consequences | How to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Incorrect tightening of the strut nuts | Suspension misalignment, accelerated wear of silent blocks | Use a torque wrench (torque 40–60 Nm) |
| Ignoring replacement of support bearings | Knock in the suspension after 10–20 thousand km | Always change bearings together with struts |
| Damage to the brake hose during removal | Brake fluid leak, brake failure | Disconnect the hose from the bracket, do not cut it! |
| Failure to follow the assembly sequence | Spring misalignment, uneven load on the strut | Follow the instructions and take photographs of the disassembly stages |
Another common problem is incompatibility of struts with springs. For example, if you install racks from Nissan Primera P12 (they look similar), springs Almera Classic will be too hard for them, which will lead to premature wear. Always check the article numbers!
After replacing the struts, avoid sudden maneuvers and high speeds for the first 100–200 km. New shock absorbers need time to “break in” to operating conditions.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing racks
Is it possible to change racks one at a time, or only in pairs?
It is recommended to change the racks pair on one axis (for example, both front ones). If you replace only one strut, the difference in stiffness will lead to uneven tire wear and the vehicle pulling to the side. An exception is if the second rack is almost new (mileage less than 20 thousand km).
How long does it take to replace struts?
If you have the tools and experience:
- 🔧 Front pillars - 2-3 hours for both.
- 🔧 Rear pillars - 1.5–2 hours for both.
If you are doing this for the first time, reserve 5-6 hours. The main time is spent on “stuck” bolts and adjustments after installation.
Do I need to do wheel balancing after replacing struts?
No, balancing is not required if you did not remove the wheels from the rims. However be sure to check the tire pressure — after lifting the car on a jack, it could change.
Which struts are best for comfortable city driving?
Suitable for urban use:
- 🔹 Monroe G4502/G4503 - soft, absorbs small irregularities well.
- 🔹 Boge 18-0536/18-0537 - a budget option with sufficient comfort.
If you often drive on highways or dirt roads, choose gas-oil struts KYB Excel-G or Sachs.
Is it possible to restore old racks?
Theoretically, yes - some workshops offer to overhaul the struts, replace the seals and add oil. However, on Almera Classic this is rarely justified:
- 🔧 The cost of restoration is 2–3 thousand rubles. per rack (it’s cheaper to buy new analogues).
- 🔧 The service life of a repaired rack is no more than 30–40 thousand km.
- 🔧 Risk of repeated oil leakage after 5–10 thousand km.
The exception is collectible or rare models for which there are no new spare parts.