Noise in the front Nissan Note when driving, especially at speeds of 60–80 km/h, this is a sure sign of wheel bearing wear. The problem cannot be ignored: a damaged bearing can block the wheel while moving, and its fragments will damage the brake disc and caliper. Car repair shops charge from 5 to 12 thousand rubles for a replacement (depending on the region and bearing model), but if you have the tools and patience, you can do the job yourself.
This article contains detailed instructions with photos, a list of necessary tools and critical nuances, which even experienced masters do not mention. We will look at how to determine if a wheel bearing is faulty (and not a CV joint or shock absorber), which bearings are suitable for Nissan Note different generations and why after replacement, be sure to check the wheel play in a suspended state - this will save you from repeated repairs after 10-15 thousand km. You will also learn how to do without a press when pressing in a new bearing and what mistakes lead to premature failure of the part.
Signs of a bad wheel bearing on a Nissan Note
The wheel bearing wears out gradually, and in the early stages its “symptoms” can easily be confused with other chassis malfunctions. Here are the key signs that directly indicate a problem:
- 🔊 Hum or howl on the wheel side, increasing during acceleration. At speeds of 80+ km/h it can go into metallic grinding - this is a signal that the bearing is already falling apart.
- 🌀 Vibration on the steering wheel or body, especially when turning. If vibration appears only on left-hand turns, the problem is in the right bearing, and vice versa.
- 🔄 Wheel play when rocking in a horizontal plane (checked on a jack). Even minimal play is a reason for replacement.
- 🔥 Hub overheating after the trip. Just touch the wheel with your hand (carefully!) - if the hub is hotter than on other wheels, the bearing requires replacement.
It is important to distinguish a wheel bearing failure from a CV joint or shock absorber failure. For example, crunch when turning - this is a CV joint, and knocking sound when going over bumps - shock absorber or strut. The wheel bearing never makes any sharp sounds, only a monotonous hum.
⚠️ Attention: If the bearing is already creaks or crunches When the wheel is rotated on a jack, pressing it into the hub can be dangerous - the bearing housing can split during dismantling. In this case, it is better to replace the hub assembly.
- Less than a month
- 1–3 months
- More than 3 months
- Only today
Which bearings are suitable for Nissan Note: original vs analogues
For Nissan Note (including restyled versions E11 And E12) wheel bearings with catalog numbers are used:
| Generation | Original number | Dimensions (inside/outside/width) | Popular analogues |
|---|---|---|---|
| Note E11 (2004–2012) | 40520-4M000 |
37×72×37 mm | SKF VKBA 3643, NSK 681409, FAG 713610650 |
| Note E12 (2012–2020) | 40520-4M010 |
37×72×37 mm (similar) | NTN 4T-4506, Koyo 681409, Timken HA590045 |
| Note with ABS (all generations) | 40520-4M001 |
37×72×37 mm (with magnetic ring) | SNFA 78050, INA 532068, GMB 710-0140 |
Original bearings Nissan cost from 2,500 to 4,000 rubles, but their quality often does not justify the price. For example, analogues from SKF or NSK (about RUB 1,800–2,500) last longer due to improved lubrication and seals. The main thing is to check availability magnetic ring (for models with ABS), otherwise the wheel speed sensor will generate an error.
When purchasing, pay attention to:
- 📦 Packaging: original bearings come in branded boxes with a hologram.
- 🔍 Marking: The manufacturer's number and logo must be stamped on the end of the bearing.
- 🛠️ Completeness: There should be a new hub nut in the box (disposable!).
⚠️ Attention: Bearings without a magnetic ring (for models without ABS) are externally identical to “ABS” bearings, but when installed on a car with an anti-lock braking system they lead to ABS lamp stays on on the dashboard.
Before purchasing a bearing, remove the old magnetic ring from the hub and check its integrity. If the ring is damaged, replace it separately (part no. 40525-4M000).
Tools and materials for bearing replacement
To work you will need specialized tool, without which dismantling the bearing can turn into torture. Here's the full list:
- 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to insure your car!
- 🔩 30 mm head for the hub nut (impact is better).
- 🔧 17 and 19 mm socket wrench for caliper and ball bolts.
- 🛠️ Wheel bearing puller (or universal three-legged).
- 🔨 Hammer and drift (to knock the hub out of the steering knuckle).
- 🔥 Gas burner or hair dryer (to heat the hub during pressing).
- 🧴 Litol-24 grease or similar (for processing seats).
- 🧲 Torque wrench (to tighten the hub nut with a torque of 200–250 Nm).
If you don't have a puller, you can get by homemade device from an M12 bolt, a nut and a metal plate, but this will take much longer. Also useful WD-40 or a similar composition for unscrewing stuck bolts.
Loosen the hub nut (while the wheel is on the ground)|Remove the wheel and brake caliper|Disconnect the tie rod and ball joint|Remove the hub from the steering knuckle|Clean the seat from dirt and rust-->
Step-by-step instructions for replacing a bearing
The replacement process takes 3–5 hours (depending on experience). The main thing is to take your time and follow the sequence:
Step 1. Removing the wheel and brake mechanism
Raise the car on a jack and remove the wheel. Unscrew the two caliper bolts (17 mm wrench), hang the caliper on a wire to the spring - do not leave it hanging on the hose! Remove the brake rotor (you may need to hammer it through a wooden spacer).
Step 2. Removing the hub
Unscrew the hub nut (30 mm head, tightening torque - 200–250 Nm). If the nut does not budge, use impact wrench or heat it with a burner. Then disconnect the steering tip (unlock the nut, knock out the pin) and the ball joint. The hub should now come out of the steering knuckle.
Step 3: Removing the Old Bearing
Secure the hub in a vice. Using a puller or homemade tool, press out the bearing. If it gets stuck, heat the hub with a burner to 100–150°C - this will expand the metal and make dismantling easier. Do not hit the bearing directly with a hammer! - use a drift on the inner ring.
Step 4: Install the new bearing
Clean the seat from rust and dirt. Heat the hub to 80–100°C (with a hairdryer or torch), and cool the new bearing in the freezer for 15–20 minutes - this will make pressing in easier. Install the bearing evenly, without distortions, and press it in with a puller or through a mandrel. Do not use the old retaining ring! - it is deformed during dismantling.
Step 5: Assembly and Testing
Reassemble everything in reverse order. Tighten the hub nut with a torque wrench (200–250 Nm), then loosen it. Spin the wheel in a suspended state - it should rotate silently, without play. After a test drive (5–10 km), check the hub heating.
What to do if the bearing does not press in?
If the bearing does not seat all the way, check:
1) Cleanliness of the seat (even small chips interfere).
2) Alignment - the bearing must fit strictly perpendicularly.
3) Dimensions - the bearing may have been purchased in the wrong size.
As a last resort, you can carefully adjust the seat with a file, but this is risky - it is better to replace the hub assembly.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes that reduce the service life of the bearing by 2-3 times. That's what can't do when replacing:
- 🔧 Use an old hub nut - it deforms when tightened and does not provide the required torque.
- 🔨 Hit the outer race of the bearing with a hammer - this leads to microcracks and rapid failure.
- 🧴 Ignore seat lubrication — without it, the bearing “sticks” and is more difficult to dismantle next time.
- 🌀 Do not check play after installation - even minimal play (0.1–0.2 mm) will accelerate wear.
- 🔥 Overheat the bearing when pressing — temperatures above 120°C destroy the lubricant.
Another common mistake is Improper tightening of the hub nut. If you overtighten (more than 250 Nm), the bearing will overheat; if you undertighten (less than 180 Nm), play will appear. Use a torque wrench!
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the bearing the wheel rotates with periodic jammingMost likely, the bearing is installed crookedly or the seat in the hub is damaged. In this case, a complete replacement of the hub assembly is required.
The most common cause of premature wear of a new bearing is dirt ingress during installation. Always clean the seat and use new lubricant!
Cost of work in the service vs independent replacement
Prices for replacing a wheel bearing in car services vary depending on the region and level of the service station:
| Service type | Cost of work (1 bearing) | Lead time | Warranty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Official Nissan dealer | 8,000–12,000 rub. | 4–6 hours | 12 months |
| Specialized car service | 5,000–8,000 rub. | 3–4 hours | 6 months |
| Garage workshops | 3,000–5,000 rub. | 2–3 hours | Absent or 1 month |
| Self-replacement | 0 rub. (bearing cost only) | 3–5 hours | Depends on the quality of work |
The savings when replacing it yourself is 5,000–12,000 rubles, but only if you have the tool and experience. If you have never had to work with a suspension, it is better to contact a service center - errors when replacing a bearing can be more expensive (for example, damage to the brake disc or caliper).
Bearing cost (1 piece):
- 🔹 Original: 2,500–4,000 rub.
- 🔹 SKF/NSK: 1,800–2,500 rub.
- 🔹 Budget analogues (GMB, Febi): RUB 1,200–1,800.
Frequently asked questions about replacing a wheel bearing on a Nissan Note
Is it possible to drive with a humming bearing?
Short-term (1-2 weeks) - yes, but not worth the risk. Bearing failure at speed can lead to wheel jam or damage to the brake system. At the first sign of a hum, it is better to immediately plan a replacement.
Do I need to replace the bearings as a pair (on both wheels)?
No, if the second bearing is in good condition. Replacement with a pair is justified only when severe wear on both or if the car has traveled more than 150,000 km. In other cases, it is enough to replace only the faulty one.
How to check a bearing without a jack?
Raise the car on a lift or hang the wheel on a jack. Grasp the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position with your hands and rock it back and forth. Play or clicks are a sign of bearing wear. Also spin the wheel: it should rotate silently.
What happens if you don't tighten the hub nut?
A loose nut will result in wheel play, which accelerates bearing wear by 3–5 times. It's also possible self-unscrewing of the nut while driving, which can lead to the loss of a wheel. Always use a torque wrench!
Can a bearing without a magnetic ring be used on a car with ABS?
No! Without the magnetic ring, the ABS sensor will not read the wheel speed, which will lead to ABS lamp stays on on the dashboard and turning off the system. In an emergency, this will increase the braking distance.