Often owners Nissan Almera Classic encounter a characteristic click when turning the steering wheel and accelerating. This is a sure sign of wear on the outer constant velocity joint, popularly known as grenade. Ignoring this problem can result in the unit jamming and complete loss of control while on the move, creating a serious safety hazard.
Replacement process outer CV joint on this model has its own nuances that differ from the repair of more modern platforms. You will need not only specific tools, but also an understanding of the suspension design so as not to damage adjacent components. In this article we will analyze each stage of the work, from diagnostics to final assembly.
Diagnosis of faults and selection of spare parts
Before you begin disassembling, you need to be sure of the source of the noise. Often the knocking noise can come from the support bearing or even broken silent blocks of the lever. Listen to the sound: if it intensifies when the steering wheel is turned and the drive is loaded, the diagnosis is almost obvious.
When choosing replacement part on Nissan Almera Classic It is important to consider the manufacturer. The original is often expensive, but low-quality Chinese analogues can fail after just a couple of thousand kilometers. The optimal solution is to choose proven brands specializing in Japanese cars.
- 🔧 CV joint housing - must have a perfectly flat surface without traces of corrosion.
- 🔧 Oil seal - be sure to change it together with the grenade to avoid oil leakage.
- 🔧 Gravity lubrication — use only special compounds for CV joints.
Some owners try to save money by changing only the boot and adding new grease. However, if there is already play or metal shavings inside, this method will not save. On Nissan Almera Classic, the outer CV joint is often sold assembled with the drive shaft, which simplifies replacement, but increases the cost of repairs.
Preparation of tools and workplace
Repairing drive shafts requires significant physical effort and specialized equipment. A regular jack and a set of wrenches will not be enough to do the job properly. You will need a strong stand or stand under the body, as you will have to work under load.
The most critical tool is a ball joint puller or a special puller for CV joints. You also definitely need a powerful wrench and an extension to unscrew the hub nut, which is tightened with a large torque.
- 🔨 Hammer - preferably with a massive head for knocking out parts.
- 🔨 Puller - to safely separate the lever from the steering knuckle.
- 🔨 Torque wrench - for correct tightening of the hub nut.
Make sure the vehicle is securely secured. Working under a machine that is only supported by a jack is strictly prohibited. Use reliable supports for thresholds or beams.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to knock the CV joint out of the hub by striking directly at the end of the shaft with a hammer. This can damage the wheel bearing and disrupt the drive geometry.
Removing the wheel and unscrewing the hub nut
We start by lifting the car and removing the wheel. Before removing the wheel bolts, be sure to loosen hub nutwhile the car is on the ground. The tightening torque of this nut is very high, and if it does not unscrew after lifting, you risk damaging the threads or breaking the retainer.
Remove the wheel and clean the area around the hub of dirt and rust. The nut usually has a lock washer that must be carefully bent back before unscrewing. Use the head on 30 mm or 32 mm depending on the configuration.
Once the nut is removed, you can remove the wheel completely. You now have access to the suspension and drive shaft. Inspect the condition of the inner CV joint boot - if it is torn, it should also be replaced during repairs.
- Torque wrench
- Ball puller
- Hammer with long handle
- Impact wrench
Disconnecting the lever and removing the drive
The next step is to separate the steering knuckle from the suspension arm. To do this, you need to loosen the ball joint nut. It is best to use a puller that will squeeze out the ball pin without damaging the threads. If you don’t have a puller, you can gently hit the end of the lever with a hammer next to where the pin fits.
After the ball is disconnected, the steering knuckle can be moved to the side. Now you need to unscrew the ABS bracket mounting bolts if they are in the way, and carefully pull the drive shaft towards you to press it out of the hub.
- 🚫 Do not pull on the speedometer cable or ABS wire - they may break.
- 🚫 Don't drop the drive on the floor so as not to damage the anthers.
- 🚫 Don't use a pry bar for the lever - the paintwork can be damaged.
Now remove the shaft from the gearbox. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the gearbox seal. Place a container under the box, as transmission oil may leak out of the seat.
☑️ Check before removing the shaft
Replacing the CV joint and assembling the unit
If you bought an assembled drive, replacement is simplified: the old shaft is knocked out of the hub, the new one is inserted into place. If only the grenade is changed, then the old CV joint needs to be knocked out from the shaft. This is done through a spacer so as not to damage the shaft splines.
Before installing a new CV joint, thoroughly clean the shaft splines and lubricate them with special lubricant. Make sure the retaining ring on the shaft is not damaged. The new CV joint is put on the shaft and driven with soft blows until it stops against the retaining ring.
Be sure to put on a new boot and secure it with clamps. Make sure that no dirt gets into the boot, otherwise it will quickly tear. After this, the drive is inserted back into the hub until the lock ring clicks.
How to check if the retaining ring is installed correctly?
Pull the drive slightly towards you. If it disengaged with a slight force, the ring did not work. If it holds and requires significant effort to remove, everything is correct.
⚠️ Attention: When assembling, make sure that the retaining ring is completely seated in the groove. If the ring is not seated, the shaft may jump out of the gearbox while driving, resulting in loss of traction.
Before final tightening of the wheel nut, lower the vehicle onto the wheels so that they are on the ground. This will ensure the correct position of the splines and prevent misalignment.
Final tightening and operation check
Return the steering knuckle to its place and tighten the ball joint nut. Then install the wheel, but do not completely tighten the bolts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and use a torque wrench to torque the hub nut 200-250 Nm (see the service book for the exact value).
After tightening the hub nut, bend the lock washer into the groove on the shaft spline. This will prevent the nut from unscrewing due to vibration. Tighten the wheel bolts firmly 100-110 Nm.
Start the engine and drive a short distance. Listen to the drive. If there is no noise and the steering wheel does not pull to the side, the job is done successfully. Check the gearbox oil level and add it if necessary.
Proper tightening of the wheel nut using a torque wrench is the key to the longevity of the wheel bearing and driving safety.
| Parameter | Meaning | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Wheel nut tightening torque | 200-250 Nm | Depends on year of manufacture and drive type |
| Wheel bolt tightening torque | 100-110 Nm | Standard for most Nissans |
| Ball joint tightening torque | 70-90 Nm | Check the thread condition |
| Transmission oil volume | 3.0-3.5 l | When replacing the oil seal, a part may leak out |
Frequent errors and operating tips
One of the most common mistakes is incorrect installation of the boot. If air or dirt remains underneath, the lubricant will quickly lose its properties. Always squeeze out excess air from the boot before tightening the clamps.
It is also important to monitor the condition of the internal CV joint. If you hear a knocking noise during acceleration that goes away when you release the gas, the problem may be in the inner joint. Ignoring this symptom will lead to destruction of the transmission differential.
Don't skimp on the quality of the lubricant. Cheap analogues may not withstand high temperatures and loads, which will lead to rapid wear. Use only specialized lubricants for CV joints containing molybdenum disulfide.
⚠️ Attention: If knocking noise occurs after replacing the drive, stop immediately and check the tightness of all bolts. Loosening the fastening can lead to wheel separation or suspension failure.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to replace only the outer CV joint without removing the drive?
Theoretically it is possible, but it is extremely inconvenient and requires enormous effort. On Nissan Almera Classic It’s easier to remove the entire drive assembly, replace the grenade on a workbench and install it back. This will save time and effort.
Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after replacing the CV joint?
If you did not unscrew the bolts securing the arms to the subframe and did not change the arms, the wheel alignment should not change. However, if the hub has been severely knocked out or dented, it is recommended to check the wheel alignment angles.
How much lubricant should be put into a new CV joint?
Usually a packet of lubricant is included with a new grenade. Its contents are sufficient to fill the internal space of the CV joint. There is no need to add excess lubricant, as this may cause the boot to rupture when it expands.
What to do if the hub nut does not unscrew?
Use a quality wrench and extension. If the nut is stuck, you can gently heat it with a torch (be careful with rubber and oil) and tap on the end of the shaft so that the vibration helps break the thread. Do not try to remove the nut while standing on the jack.