Manual transmission Nissan Almera Classic (N16) is renowned for its reliability, but even it requires regular maintenance. One of the key procedures is changing transmission oil, which many owners ignore until problems appear: difficult gear shifting, crunching synchronizers or leakage through the seals. In this article, we’ll look at why the oil in a manual transmission needs to be changed, despite dealers’ assurances about “lifelong” filling, and we’ll also give step by step instructions with nuances for Almera Classic 2006–2018.

The peculiarity of this model is the use of a box RS5F31A (for 1.5/1.6 l engines), which is sensitive to the quality and viscosity of the oil. The manufacturer does not always indicate exact replacement intervals, but the experience of owners shows: it is optimal to update the oil every 60–80 thousand km or once every 4–5 years. If you operate the car in difficult conditions (frequent traffic jams, towing, aggressive driving), the interval should be reduced to 40–50 thousand km. Next - details on how to do it yourself, saving 1.5-2 thousand rubles at the service station.

Why does the oil in the Almera Classic manual transmission need to be changed?

Many people believe that a manual transmission does not require maintenance, but this is a myth. Transmission oil in Almera Classic performs several critical functions:

  • 🔧 Lubrication of bearings and gears - reduces friction and wear of metal parts.
  • 🧊 Heat dissipation — prevents overheating of the box under prolonged loads.
  • 🛡️ Corrosion protection — neutralizes oxidation products and moisture.
  • 🔄 Removing metal shavings — wear particles settle in the oil and do not damage the synchronizers.

Over time, the oil loses its properties: it oxidizes, becomes saturated with wear products, and becomes less viscous. Consequences of ignoring replacement:

  • ⚠️ Difficulty shifting gears (especially when cold).
  • ⚠️ Crunching sound when engaging 1st or 2nd gear - a sign of wear on the synchronizers.
  • ⚠️ Leaking through seals — old oil corrodes rubber seals.
  • ⚠️ Accelerated bearing wear - leads to the hum of the box.
⚠️ Attention: If you find in the oil drained from the manual transmission metal shavings or black flakes, the box is already in need of repair. In this case, a simple oil change is not enough - you need diagnostics at a service station.

Manufacturer Nissan does not always indicate the rules for changing the oil in a manual transmission for Almera Classic, but in service manuals for similar boxes (for example, RS5F32A in Note or Micra) it is recommended to update the oil every 90 thousand km. However, taking into account Russian operating conditions (bad roads, frequent temperature changes), it is better to shorten this interval.

📊 How often do you change the oil in the manual transmission of your Almera Classic?
  • Every 40–50 thousand km
  • Every 60–80 thousand km
  • Only when problems arise
  • Never changed
  • I don't know what's in there

What kind of oil should I fill in the Almera Classic manual transmission?

The choice of oil is key. For the box RS5F31A gear oils with classification are suitable API GL-4 or GL-5 and viscosity 75W-80 or 75W-90. Important: Do not use oils with a viscosity of 80W-90 or thicker - this will worsen the performance of synchronizers in winter.

Official recommendations Nissan for Almera Classic:

  • 🔹 Original oil: Nissan MT-XZ Fluid (art. KE908-99932) is the best choice, but expensive (about 1,200 rubles/liter).
  • 🔹 Analogues:
    • Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC 75W-90 (synthetic, GL-4/5).
    • Castrol Syntrans Transaxle 75W-90 (suitable for copper synchronizer boxes).
    • Liqui Moly Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil 75W-90 (GL-4/5, popular among owners Almera).
    • Motul Gear 300 75W-90 (GL-4/5, good option for severe conditions).
Oil brand Classification Viscosity Replacement volume, l Approximate price, rub/liter
Nissan MT-XZ Fluid GL-4 75W-80 2.8–3.0 1 200
Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC GL-4/5 75W-90 2.8–3.0 800
Castrol Syntrans Transaxle GL-4 75W-90 2.8–3.0 750
Liqui Moly Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil GL-4/5 75W-90 2.8–3.0 900

Oil volume in manual transmission Almera Classic2.8–3.0 liters. With a partial replacement (without flushing) you will need about 2.5 liters, with a full replacement - all 3 liters. Never mix oils from different manufacturers or with different viscosities - this will lead to foaming and loss of properties.

If you live in a region with frosts below -30°C, give preference to oil with a viscosity 75W-80 (for example, the original Nissan MT-XZ). Suitable for southern regions 75W-90.

💡

Before purchasing oil, check its authenticity! Counterfeit gear oils (especially Mobil And Liqui Moly) are often sold in uncertified stores. Pay attention to holograms, fonts on the label and the consistency of the liquid (the original should not be cloudy).

Tools and materials for oil change

To change the oil in a manual transmission yourself Almera Classic you will need:

  • 🔧 24mm wrench - for the drain plug (sometimes a head with an extension is suitable).
  • 🔧 10 mm wrench - to unscrew the crankcase protection (if there is one).
  • 🔧 8 mm hexagon - for the filler plug (in some versions - a 17 mm wrench).
  • 🛢️ Drain container (with a volume of at least 4 liters) - a cut-off canister will do.
  • 🧴 New gear oil (3 l).
  • 🧻 Rags and gloves — the oil is toxic, avoid contact with skin.
  • 🔦 Flashlight or lamp — the drain plug can be hidden by protection.
  • 🛠️ Torque wrench (optional) - for proper tightening of plugs.

You may also need:

  • 🔹 Flushing fluid (if the oil is very dirty, but this is rare for a manual transmission).
  • 🔹 Sealant (For example, Loctite 574) - if the plugs are leaking.
  • 🔹 Oil syringe (with a flexible tube) - if the filler hole is in an inconvenient place.
⚠️ Attention: In some versions Almera Classic (for example, with an engine QG15DE) the filler plug is located on the side of the box, not from above. This makes it difficult to add oil without a syringe. Before starting work, check the location of the plugs in the manual or on the forums.

If you don't have a hole or a lift, you can get by with a jack, but it's less convenient. An alternative is to go onto the overpass (available for free or for a nominal fee in many garages).

Warm up the box (drive 5–10 km)|Put the car on a flat surface and lock the handbrake|Remove the crankcase protection (if any)|Prepare a drain container and tools|Put on gloves and work clothes-->

Step-by-step instructions for changing the oil

The process of changing the oil in a manual transmission Almera Classic takes about 1–1.5 hours. Follow the instructions strictly step by step:

Step 1: Drain the old oil

1. Warm up the box: drive 5–10 km or let the engine run for 10–15 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and more completely.

2. Drive the car onto a pit/overpass, lock the handbrake and place chocks under the rear wheels.

3. Remove the crankcase protection (if there is one) - usually secured with 4-6 10 mm wrench bolts.

4. Find the drain plug on the box - it is located at the bottom of the manual transmission (see photo below). Clean it with a wire brush to remove any dirt.

5. Place the drain container and carefully unscrew the plug with a 24 mm wrench. Be careful - the oil will be hot! Let it drain completely (10-15 minutes).

6. Inspect the drained oil:

- If it black with metal shavings — the box is worn out, diagnostics are needed.

- If the oil cloudy, but without large particles - enough replacement.

- If the oil transparent with a slight yellow tint - you change it too often (or it is fake).

Step 2: Wash the box (optional)

Flushing is only necessary if:

  • 🔹 The oil is very dirty (black, with flakes).
  • 🔹 You don’t know what was uploaded earlier.
  • 🔹 The box worked with a hum or jerks.

For washing:

  1. Screw in the drain plug.
  2. Fill through the filler hole with 1–1.5 l special flushing fluid (For example, Liqui Moly Getriebe-Reiniger).
  3. Start the engine, engage 1st gear and let it run for 3-5 minutes.
  4. Drain the wash and repeat the procedure with fresh oil.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use for cleaning manual transmissions. gasoline, diesel or kerosene! These liquids destroy seals and synchronizers. Only specialized flushes for manual transmissions.

Step 3: Add new oil

1. Make sure that the drain plug is tightened (tightening torque: 30–40 Nm).

2. Find the filler hole:

- In most versions Almera Classic it is located on the right in the direction of travel, closer to the inner CV joint.

- The plug can be for an 8 mm hexagon or a 17 mm key.

3. Unscrew the filler plug. If the hole is in an awkward place, use a syringe with a flexible tube.

4. Fill with new oil until it begins to flow out of the filler hole. This means that the level has reached normal.

5. Tighten the plug (tightening torque: 25–30 Nm). Install the crankcase protection (if removed).

6. Start the engine, engage 1st gear and let it run for 1–2 minutes. Check the oil level and add if necessary.

What to do if the oil does not drain?

If the oil does not drain or flows very slowly, possible reasons:

1. **Drain hole is clogged** - clean it with wire.

2. **Thick oil** - heat the box longer (20-30 minutes).

3. **The drain plug is deformed** - try unscrewing it with a gas wrench or replace the plug.

4. **A vacuum has formed in the box** - open the filler plug slightly to allow air to enter.

Common mistakes when changing oil

Even experienced car owners make mistakes that can lead to box failure. Here are the most common:

  • Overfilling or underfilling oil:

    - Underfilling leads to oil starvation of bearings and gearbox noise.

    - Overflow creates excess pressure, causing oil to be squeezed out through the seals.

  • Using the wrong oil viscosity:

    - Oil 80W-90 In winter it thickens, making it difficult to change gears.

    - Oil 75W-75 too liquid for summer use.

  • Mixing different oils - even if they are of the same viscosity, additives can react.
  • Ignoring leaks after replacement — if oil oozes from under the plug, it needs to be tightened or the sealing ring needs to be replaced.
  • Changing the oil with a cold box - in this case, only 50–60% of the volume will merge.

Another common mistake is use of automatic transmission oil (For example, Dexron). Such oils contain other additives and are not suitable for manual transmissions. Always check the labeling GL-4 or GL-5 on the canister.

💡

If, after changing the oil, there is a hum in the box or the gears begin to engage slowly, most likely, oil of the wrong viscosity or poor quality was filled in. Drain it immediately and rinse the box.

When is an unscheduled oil change required?

In addition to routine replacement, the oil in the manual transmission Almera Classic needs to be updated if the following symptoms occur:

  • 🔧 After buying a used car — it is unknown what and when the previous owner filled in.
  • 🔧 After box repair (replacement of seals, bearings, synchronizers).
  • 🔧 If the oil has darkened or become cloudy prematurely - a sign of overheating or water ingress.
  • 🔧 After driving through deep puddles — there is a risk of water getting into the box through the breather.
  • 🔧 If the box starts to howl in neutral gear - wear of the bearings is possible, the oil has lost its properties.

An unscheduled replacement is also required if you mixed different oils or poured a low-quality product. In this case, the box needs to be washed and fresh oil filled.

If you notice that the oil in the manual transmission Almera Classic became foamy, this is a sign:

  • 🔹 Water ingress (for example, after washing the engine under pressure).
  • 🔹 Using low-quality or fake oil.
  • 🔹 Oil overflow (excess foams during gear operation).

In any of these cases, the oil must be drained, the box must be washed and a new compound must be filled in.

How much does it cost to change the oil in an Almera Classic manual transmission?

The cost of an oil change depends on whether you do it yourself or at a service station. Let's consider both options:

Expense item On your own At the service station
Oil (3 l) 2,400–3,600 rub. 2,400–3,600 rub.
Flushing fluid (optional) 300–500 rub. 500–800 rub.
O-rings for plugs 50–100 rub. Included in work
Work (oil change) 0 rub. 800–1,500 rub.
Work (washing the box) 0 rub. 1,000–1,800 rub.
Total 2,750–4,200 rub. 4,700–7,700 rub.

As can be seen from the table, self-replacement allows you to save 2–3.5 thousand rubles. However, if you do not have experience or tools, it is better to trust the professionals - mistakes when changing the oil in a manual transmission can be more expensive.

Some service stations offer "express change" of manual transmission oil without removing the protection and warming up the box. Refuse this service! In this case, only part of the oil is drained, and dirt and chips remain inside.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about changing the oil in Almera Classic manual transmission

Is it possible to use GL-5 oil instead of GL-4?

Oils GL-5 contain more sulfur additives, which are aggressive to copper synchronizers (and they are in the box Almera Classic). Optimal choice - GL-4 or universal oil GL-4/5 (For example, Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC). If you fill it with pure GL-5, over time the synchronizers may begin to “crumble,” which will lead to a crunching sound when shifting gears.

How to check the oil level in a manual transmission without a dipstick?

B Almera Classic There is no dipstick for checking the oil level in the manual transmission. The level is checked through the filler hole:

  1. Place the machine on a level surface.
  2. Unscrew the filler plug.
  3. The oil level should be at the edge of the hole (if it’s lower, add more).
  4. If the oil is not visible, insert a clean dipstick (for example, a screwdriver) - the oil should leave a mark at the level of the edge.

It is better to check on a warm box (after 10–15 km of driving).

What happens if you don’t change the oil in your manual transmission?

The consequences depend on the mileage and operating conditions:

  • 50–80 thousand km — the oil darkens, difficulties arise when switching to cold.
  • 100–150 thousand km — crunching noise when engaging 1st and 2nd gear, wear of synchronizers.
  • 150+ thousand km - bearing noise, leaks through seals, risk of box jamming.

In advanced cases it will be necessary manual transmission overhaul (from 20 thousand rubles), while timely oil changes cost 3–4 thousand rubles.

Do I need to flush the transmission when changing the oil?

Flushing is only necessary in three cases:

  1. You don’t know what was filled in earlier (for example, after purchasing a used car).
  2. The drained oil is black, with flakes or metal shavings.
  3. The box operated with a hum, jerking, or leaked.

If the oil has simply darkened, but without large particles, a regular replacement is sufficient. For rinsing use special compounds (For example, Liqui Moly Getriebe-Reiniger), but not diesel or kerosene!

Is it possible to fill oil through the breather?

Technically you can, but this is inconvenient and fraught with problems:

  • The breather is located high, the oil will flow slowly.
  • Risk of overfilling - difficult to control level.
  • The breather can be damaged, which will allow dirt to get into the box.

It is better to fill the oil through the standard filler hole on the side of the box. If this is not available, use a syringe with a flexible tube.