Fuel pump in Nissan Murano Z51 (2003–2007) - one of the most vulnerable components after 150–200 thousand km. Symptoms of its malfunction are often confused with problems with spark plugs, ignition coils, or even catalyst: the car jerks while driving, stalls when hot, or refuses to start after refueling. In 80% of cases, it is the fuel pump that is to blame - its service life rarely exceeds 200 thousand km, especially when using low-quality fuel.
In this article you will find detailed instructions for replacement with photos and videos, article numbers of original and analog pumps, as well as list of critical mistakes that 90% of car owners make when doing their own repairs. We analyzed the process using an example Murano Z51 with engines VQ35DE (3.5 l) and VQ25DE (2.5 l) - the differences in the replacement algorithm are minimal, but there are nuances with the fastening of the fuel module.
Signs of a faulty fuel pump on a Murano Z51
The first symptoms of pump wear appear gradually, but ignoring them is dangerous: this can lead to engine overheating or failure of injectors. Here are the key signals:
- 🔴 Jerking during acceleration (especially at speeds of 60–100 km/h) - the pump does not have time to supply enough fuel.
- 🔥 Engine stalls when hot, but starts after cooling - a typical sign of pump overheating.
- ⛽ Increased fuel consumption (by 1–2 l/100 km) - the pump wears out, creating excess pressure.
- 🚗 Difficulty starting after refueling - if the car does not start immediately, but starts after 2-3 attempts.
- 🔊 Hum or whistle from the gas tank - a sign of wear on the impeller or pump bearings.
If you notice at least 2-3 symptoms from the list, check the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. Norm for Murano Z51:
- Idling: 3.0–3.5 bar.
- When pressing the gas: up to 4.0 bar.
- After turning off the ignition: the pressure should drop no faster than 5–7 minutes.
⚠️ Attention: If the pressure drops immediately after stopping the engine, the problem is not in the pump, but in pressure regulator or check valve. Replacing them will cost less than a complete fuel module.
- Never
- More than 100 thousand km ago
- Less than 50 thousand km ago
- I don't know, I bought the car used
Articles and prices: original vs analogues
Original fuel module for Nissan Murano Z51 supplied under article number 17040-4M000 (for engines VQ35DE/VQ25DE). Its average price in 2026 is 18,000–22,000 rubles. However, there are high-quality analogues that are cheaper:
| Brand | Article | Price, ₽ | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nissan (original) | 17040-4M000 | 18 000–22 000 | Complete module with level sensor, mesh and pump |
| Denso | 950-0131 | 12 000–14 000 | Japanese quality, compatible with original connector |
| Bosch | 0 580 454 035 | 9 500–11 000 | Good budget option, but can be noisy |
| AIRTEX | E1043M | 8 000–9 500 | Spanish brand, average resource ~150 thousand km |
| Spectra Premium | SP1143M | 7 500–8 500 | Canadian manufacturer, frequent complaints about the mesh |
If the budget is limited, you can only replace pump inside the module (article 950-0131 for Denso), leaving the old grid and level sensor. This will save up to 50% of the cost, but will require careful disassembly.
⚠️ Attention: When purchasing an analogue, check the package contents! Often missing from cheap sets tank o-ring (article 17342-4M000), without which gasoline leaks are possible.
Preparing for replacement: tools and safety precautions
To work you will need:
- 🔧 Set of sockets and ratchet wrench (sizes: 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm).
- 🔨 Screwdriver with flat and cross-shaped tip.
- 🧲 Magnetic grip (for removing small parts from the tank).
- 🧴 Sealant for fuel systems (for example, Loctite 577).
- 🚰 Fire extinguisher (required! Gasoline is highly flammable).
- 🧽 Rags and container for draining gasoline (minimum 5 l).
Before starting work:
- Disable negative battery terminal.
- Relieve pressure in the fuel system: start the engine and let it stall on its own (repeat 2-3 times).
- Work in well ventilated area or on the street (gasoline vapors are toxic).
- Do not smoke or use open flames within a radius of 10 meters.
Battery terminal removed|
Fuel system pressure relieved|
Gasoline container prepared|
Fire extinguisher checked|
The position of the fuel pipes is marked (photo/diagram) -->
If you are working on a lift or pit, make sure that the machine is level - this will prevent gasoline from spilling when removing the module.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the fuel pump
Replacement process Murano Z51 takes 2–3 hours if you have experience. Follow the algorithm:
1. Removing the rear seat and gas tank hatch
Raise the rear seat (pull the hinges under the front edge). Underneath you will see an access hatch to the fuel module - it is secured with 4 screws. Unscrew them and carefully remove the cover.

2. Disconnecting fuel lines
On the module you will see:
- 🔌 Electrical connector (disconnects by pressing the latch).
- 🛢️ Two fuel pipes (supply and return). They need to be squeezed with pliers and pulled to the sides.
Be careful - there may be gasoline under pressure in the pipes!
3. Removing the fuel module
The module is attached to the tank clamping ring on 8 bolts (8 mm head). Unscrew them criss-crossto avoid skew. After removing the ring, carefully pull the module up, shaking it from side to side - it may “stick” to the tank.
If the module does not come out, do not pull by force! Water the O-ring WD-40 and wait 10 minutes.
There will be gasoline left in the module—drain it into a prepared container. Please note level sensor float - it can be easily damaged when removed.
4. Replacing the pump or module
If you are only replacing the pump:
- Remove the bottom of the module (unsnap the 4 clips).
- Remove the old pump by disconnecting the plug and hoses.
- Install the new pump, making sure that arrow on the body points towards the fuel supply.
If you are replacing the module completely, move the float and level sensor from the old one to the new one.
5. Installation and testing
Assembly occurs in reverse order. Pay special attention to:
- 🔧 Tightening the clamping ring (torque - 7 Nm).
- 🔌 Connecting the tubes (supply - to the fitting with the mark
OUT). - 💡 Checking the tightness (start the engine and inspect the connections for leaks).
After replacement be sure to clear errors scanner (for example, ELM327), since the ECU could record the codes P0171 (lean mixture) or P0190 (pressure sensor circuit malfunction).
What to do if after replacing the car does not start?
1. Check the polarity of the pump connection (plus - red wire).
2. Make sure that gasoline enters the ramp (press the spool on the fuel rail).
3. If the pump does not hum when the ignition is turned on, check the fuse F15 (15A) and relay K9 in the block under the hood.
Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes that lead to repeated repairs. Here are the most common:
- Ignoring the replacement of the filter mesh. The old mesh becomes clogged with dirt and negates the effect of the new pump. Article number of the original mesh:
16400-4M000. - Re-stretching the clamping ring. This deforms the seal and leads to leakage. Use a torque wrench!
- Incorrect tube connection. Confused supply and return cause
P0171AndP0174(lean/rich mixture). - No pressure check. After replacement the pressure should be 3.0–3.5 bar at idle speed. If it is lower, the pump is defective or the filter is clogged.
Critical error: using sealant on the rubber seal. This causes it to swell and leak! The sealant is applied ONLY to the metal ring of the tank.
If after replacement the pump is louder than usual, check the module fastening. Vibration from a loose fit increases the noise.
How much does it cost to replace it at a service center versus doing it yourself?
Cost of work in car service centers in Moscow and the regions in 2026:
| Type of work | Moscow, ₽ | Regions, ₽ |
|---|---|---|
| Replacing the pump only (without removing the tank) | 3 500–5 000 | 2 500–3 500 |
| Replacing a complete module | 5 000–7 000 | 3 500–5 000 |
| Fuel pressure diagnostics | 1 000–1 500 | 800–1 200 |
Replacing it yourself will save you money 50–70% cost, but requires care. Main expenses for DIY:
- 🛒 Pump or module: 7 000–22 000 ₽.
- 🔧 Tool (if not): ~2,000 ₽ (heads, sealant, rags).
- 🚗 Gasoline for draining: ~500 ₽ (if the tank is full).
Total: from 9,500 ₽ when replacing only the pump up to 25 000 ₽ when completely replacing the module with original spare parts.
Frequently asked questions about replacing the fuel pump on a Murano Z51
Is it possible to drive with a faulty fuel pump?
Short term - yes, but it is dangerous. The engine runs on a lean mixture, which leads to overheating and breakdown of the cylinder head gasket. In addition, the pump can stall at any time, for example, at an intersection.
Which pump is better: original or Denso?
Denso - this is the same original, but without the logo Nissan. The quality is identical, and the price is 30% lower. The only caveat: complete with Denso Sometimes there is no tank o-ring.
Do I need to change the filter screen when replacing the pump?
Definitely! The old mesh is clogged with dirt and reduces the life of the new pump. Article number of the original mesh: 16400-4M000 (price ~1,500 ₽).
Why did the pump become louder after replacement?
Reasons:
- The module is not seated tightly in the tank (vibration increases the noise).
- Pump defective (especially with cheap analogues).
- Lack of gasoline in the tank (the pump runs dry).
Solution: check the module mounting and fuel level (must be at least 1/4 tank).
What fuel pressure should the Murano Z51 have?
Normal values:
- Idling: 3.0–3.5 bar.
- At 3000 rpm: 3.5–4.0 bar.
- After turning off the ignition: the fall is no faster than 5 minutes.
If the pressure is lower 2.5 bar — the pump is faulty or the filter is clogged.