Starter <em>Nissan AD</em> (11 body): device, diagnostics and replacement

Nissan AD with body B11 (1982–1990) - the legendary Japanese sedan, which is still in use in Russia and the CIS countries. One of the most vulnerable parts of this car, especially after 20+ years of service, becomes starter. Its failure can immobilize the car at the most inopportune moment, and original spare parts have long been discontinued. In this article we will look at how the starter works. AD11, by what symptoms you can identify a malfunction, how to check and replace it yourself - taking into account all the nuances of this particular body.

Feature Nissan AD the fact that starters from different manufacturers were installed on it, depending on the year of manufacture and the sales market. For example, on early models (1982–1985) they installed Mitsubishi, and in the later years (1986–1990) - Hitachi or Nippondenso. This is important to consider when selecting spare parts, since Bendix mounts and gears may differ. We have collected up-to-date information on all modifications, including rare variants with automatic transmission.

Starter device Nissan AD (11 body): diagram and principle of operation

Starter AD11 - This is a DC electric motor with a mechanical drive (Bendix), which briefly rotates the engine flywheel to start. Unlike modern models, it uses gear mechanism (on most versions), which increases torque but complicates repairs. Main components:

• 🔋 Electric motor — four brushes and an armature, powered by a battery through a relay.
• ⚙️ Bendix (overrunning clutch) — engages with the flywheel only when starting.
• 🔄 Gearbox (on models since 1986) - plastic gears, often break over time.
• 📶 Solenoid relay — is responsible for extending the bendix and closing the circuit.
• 🔌 Brush unit - wears out first, especially with frequent short trips.

Working principle:

1. When turning the key to position START current flows to the solenoid relay.
2. The relay extends the bendix and closes the contacts of the electric motor.
3. The armature rotates and transmits force to the flywheel through the gearbox.
4. Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch disengages the gears, preventing damage to the starter.

Critical feature of starters AD11: on models before 1985, the solenoid relay is non-separable, and since 1986 it is partially repairable (the contact group can be replaced). This affects the cost of repairs and the choice of spare parts.

Year of manufacture	Starter type	Manufacturer	Catalog number	Features
1982–1985	Gearless	Mitsubishi	M000T47801	Weak brushes, relay contacts often burn out
1986–1988	Geared	Hitachi	S64-100	Plastic gearbox, bendix gear wear
1989–1990	Geared	Nippondenso	28000-4M000	More reliable relay, but more expensive to repair

Signs of a faulty starter: how to distinguish from a dead battery

Symptoms of a starter failure are often confused with a dead battery or electrical problems. Here's how to accurately diagnose the problem:

• 🔊 Clicks without rotation — the solenoid relay is activated, but the armature does not spin. Reason: burnt relay contacts or brush wear.
• 🔄 The starter turns but does not engage — the bendix does not engage with the flywheel. Culprit: gear tooth wear or overrunning clutch failure.
• 🐢 Slow rotation - even on a charged battery. This is a sign bushing wear or short circuit in the armature winding.
• 🔥 Burning smell - indicates overheating of the windings or burning of the commutator. Needs urgent disassembly!
• 🔌 The starter works "every time" - the problem is oxidized contacts or a faulty relay.

To exclude the battery:

1. Check the voltage at the terminals at startup - there should be not lower than 9.5 V.
2. Try starting the engine "with a pushrod" (on a manual transmission). If it starts, the problem is definitely in the starter.
3. Listen to the sound: thud when turning the key, the bendix is faulty, buzzing — the overrunning clutch rotates.

⚠️ Attention: If the starter AD11 suddenly stopped working after washing the engine, check fuse No. 10 (10A) in the block under the hood - it is responsible for the relay control circuit. On these machines it often oxidizes due to moisture.

How to check the starter Nissan AD without removal: step-by-step instructions

Perform these tests before removing the starter. They will help narrow down the range of possible problems:

Check the voltage on the battery (should be 12.6 V without load)

Inspect the starter terminals for oxidation (especially the positive wire)

Ring the solenoid relay (between the control contact and ground)

Check the circuit from the ignition switch to the relay (test with a multimeter)

Try starting the car by closing the relay contacts with a screwdriver (carefully!)

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Test 1: Checking the Solenoid Relay

Disconnect the wire from the relay control contact (the thin wire coming from the ignition switch). Connect the positive probe of the multimeter to it, and the minus probe to ground. When you turn the key it should appear 12 V. If there is no voltage, the problem is ignition switch or wiring.

Test 2. Checking the electric motor

Remove the wire from the control contact of the relay and close it with a screwdriver power contact (thick wire from the battery) and manager. If the starter spins, the relay is faulty. If not, the problem is in the motor or brushes.

Test 3. Bendix check

Close the relay contacts with a screwdriver (as in Test 2). If the starter hums, but does not rotate the flywheel, the Bendix is ​​cranking. Reason: wear of the overrunning clutch rollers or the drive fork is broken.

⚠️ Attention: On Nissan AD with automatic transmission You cannot check the starter “for a spark” (by closing the contacts with a metal object). It might burn automatic transmission control unit, which on these machines does not have surge protection.

Removing and replacing the starter with Nissan AD (11 body): step by step analysis

To replace the starter with AD11 you will need:

• 🔧 Keys on 10, 12 And 14 (heads with extension).
• 🔨 Screwdriver with a flat tip.
• 🧲 Tester or sample lamp.
• 🛠 WD-40 (mounts often rust).

Step 1: Disconnecting the Battery

Remove the negative terminal from the battery. On AD11 this is mandatory - even with the positive switched off, there remains a risk of a short circuit through ground.

Step 2. Removing the protection

On models with air conditioning you will have to remove air filter and move the pipes away. The starter is located under the intake manifold and access to it is limited. On vehicles with carburetor just unscrew the heat shield (2 bolts on 10).

Step 3: Disconnecting Wires

First remove control wire (thin, usually red) from the solenoid relay. Then unscrew the nut power wire (key to 12). Be careful - the wire often “sticks” to the contact.

Step 4. Removing the starter

Unscrew the three mounting bolts (two on top of 14, one below on 12). The bottom bolt is the most problematic - it often has to be cut off with a grinder due to corrosion. After removing the bolts, carefully pull the starter down, turning it around the axis.

Step 5. Installing a new starter

Before installation, check:

• 🔄 Bendix gear compatibility with flywheel (on AD11 There are 2 types of teeth).
• 🔌 Integrity of wire insulation (especially if you are installing a used part).
• 🛠 Reliability of fastening of the retractor relay (the bolts are often loose).

Installation is carried out in reverse order. Important: Do not tighten the fastening bolts all the way at once - tighten all three first, then tighten them evenly.

How to check compatibility of Bendix with flywheel?

Before purchasing a starter, remove the flywheel protection (3 bolts by 10) and count the number of teeth on the ring. On AD11 there are flywheels with 135 and 140 teeth. The Bendix must mesh precisely - if the gear is smaller in diameter, it will not reach the flywheel, if it is larger, it will rub against the body.

Starter repair Nissan AD: what can be restored and what is better left untouched

Starters AD11 theoretically repairable, but not all parts are worth restoring. Here's what you can do yourself:

• ⚡ Replacing brushes - if wear is less than 50%. On gear models, brushes often “stick” to the commutator.
• ⚙️ Bendix replacement - only if the overrunning clutch housing is intact. The gear is not sold separately!
• 🔧 Cleaning the Solenoid Relay — if the contacts are burnt (on models since 1986).
• 🛢 Bushing lubrication - use graphite lubricant, but don’t overdo it—excess attracts dirt.

What should not be repaired:

• 🔄 Gearbox - plastic gears on Hitachi cannot be restored.
• 🔥 Anchor with a burnt commutator — the groove helps temporarily, but it’s better to replace it.
• 🧲 Case with cracks — even after welding does not guarantee tightness.

Repair cost vs. replacements:

Type of work	Cost (RUB)	Service life after repair
Replacing brushes	800–1 500	1–2 years
Bendix replacement	1 200–2 000	2–3 years
Relay repair	500–1 000	0.5–1 year
Complete starter replacement (used)	3 000–5 000	3–5 years
Complete replacement (new)	6 000–12 000	5–7 years

⚠️ Attention: On Nissan AD with diesel engine LD20 the starter experiences increased loads due to high compression. Repair here is rarely justified - it is better to immediately install a new one with a reinforced gearbox (for example, Bosch 0001108150).

Selection of spare parts: original vs. analogues for Nissan AD (11 body)

Original starters for AD11 They have not been produced for a long time, but there are high-quality analogues. The main thing is to select the part according VIN code or body number. Here are the tested options:

• 🔹 For models 1982–1985 (Mitsubishi):
  • Denso 28000-4M000 - a complete analogue, but expensive (about 10,000 rubles).
  • Bosch 0001108005 - a budget option (4,500 rubles), but weaker in the cold.
• 🔹 For models 1986–1990 (Hitachi/Nippondenso):
  • Hitachi S64-100 - original number, but there are many fakes. Check the packaging!
  • Valeo 438086 — reliable gear starter (RUB 7,000).
  • StarLine SL.A21056 - Chinese clone, but with a 2-year warranty (RUB 3,800).

What to look for when purchasing:

1. Check part number on the case - it must match the catalogue.
2. Inspect bendix gear — the teeth should be free of chips, with a uniform pitch.
3. Turn the armature by hand - it should rotate smoothly, without play.
4. Check the package - the box should contain mounting bolts and washers.

Where to buy:

• 🛒 Exist.ru — large selection of analogues, there is a filter by VIN.
• 🛒 Autodoc - there are often discounts on Bosch And Valeo.
• 🛒 Local showdowns — you can find a used starter for 2,000–3,000 rubles, but check it on the spot!

Common repair mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when working with starters AD11. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Re-tightening of fastening bolts — leads to deformation of the flange and distortion of the bendix. Tightening torque: 25–30 Nm.
• 🔌 Ignoring oxidized contacts - even a new starter will not work well if the ground on the body is not cleaned.
• 🛠 Installing Bendix from another model - gears with different tooth pitches will quickly break the flywheel.
• 🔋 Checking the starter without load — on the table it can twist, but under load it can jam.
• 🔥 Using lithol instead of special lubricant — it thickens in the cold and blocks the anchor.

How to avoid problems:

1. Always take pictures negative battery terminal before work - even when checking with a multimeter.
2. Before installing a new starter, check clearance between gear and flywheel (should be 0.5–1 mm).
3. Do not use wrench extensions when unscrewing bolts - there is a risk of stripping the threads.
4. After replacing the starter, check current consumption at startup (normal: 80–120 A).

⚠️ Attention: On Nissan AD with air conditioning When replacing the starter, it is easy to damage the refrigerant pipes. They run next to the top mounting bolt. When working, use protective covers or disconnect the tubes in advance (refilling freon will be required).

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions about starters Nissan AD (11 body)

Is it possible to start Nissan AD with a faulty push starter?

Yes, but only if the problem is in the electrical part (brushes, relays). If the bendix spins or the flywheel teeth are broken, the pusher will not help. On machines with automatic transmission This starting method is strictly prohibited - it will ruin the automatic transmission.

How long does a starter last on average? AD11?

Depends on operating conditions:

• 🏙 City mode (frequent launches): 80–100 thousand km.
• 🛣 Route (long trips): 120–150 thousand km.
• ❄️ Frost below -25°C: resource is reduced by 30–40%.

What is the difference between starters for carburetor and injection engines? AD11?

On injection models (since 1988), the starter has reinforced solenoid relay (current consumption 18–20 A versus 12–15 A for carburetor ones). The length of the bendix shaft is also different - on the injector it is 5 mm shorter. Installing a “carburetor” starter on an injection machine will lead to flywheel under-twisted and problems with starting.

What kind of oil to pour into the starter gearbox Hitachi S64-100?

Use synthetic lubricant for heavily loaded bearings, for example:

• Molykote G-Rapid Plus (art. 3452) - does not thicken in the cold.
• LIQUI MOLY Thermoflex Spezialfett — can withstand up to +180°C.

Absolutely cannot be used Litol-24 or Solid oil — they crystallize at -10°C and block the mechanism.

Where to find the starter wiring diagram for Nissan AD11?

The official diagram can be downloaded from electronic manual (section Starting System). For quick access:

• 🔹 Food: goes through fuse 10A (in the block under the hood) and starter relay (on the right side of the engine compartment).
• 🔹 Management: the signal comes from ignition switch (pin 50) via blocking relay (on cars with automatic transmission).