Removing the right-hand drive on a Nissan Qashqai: instructions with nuances and life hacks

Removing the right drive on Nissan Qashqai - a task that every crossover owner faces sooner or later, especially when the mileage exceeds 100,000 km. The reasons may vary: from boot wear and dirt getting into the joint until it fails completely CV joint or internal hinge. Car service centers charge from 3,000 to 6,000 rubles for this work, but if you have the tools and patience, you can do it yourself - saving money and gaining invaluable experience.

In this article we will analyze the process of removing the right drive on Qashqai J10 (2007–2013) and J11 (2014–2021) with engines HR16DE, MR20DE And M9R (diesel). We will pay special attention critical points that are often missed in standard manuals - for example, fixing the hub nut and correctly removing the ball joint without damaging the boot. You will also find a spare parts compatibility table, an FAQ for troubleshooting and a tool checklist.

Preparation: tools and working conditions

Before you begin dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. Will have to work for lift, overpass or inspection hole - a jack and stops are not suitable here due to the need to manipulate the suspension. If there is no hole, you can use rings (rubber supports for the wheels) and reliable stops, but this will complicate the process.

Minimum set of tools:

• 🔧 Socket wrench or socket on 32 mm (for hub nut)
• 🔧 Socket heads on 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm
• 🔧 Extension and ratchet wrench
• 🔧 Ball joint remover (or pry bar + hammer)
• 🔧 Pliers for retaining rings
• 🔧 Torque wrench (to tighten the hub nut)
• 🔧 WD-40 or similar cleaner
• 🔧 New locking rings and nuts (single use!)

⚠️ Attention: Hub nut on Qashqai tightened with the moment 250–280 Nm. If you do not have a torque wrench, have it tightened at a car service center - the wrong torque will lead to play or damage to the bearing.

Also prepare:

• 🧤 Gloves (drive and CV joints will be covered in oil)
• 📦 Container for draining transmission oil (if you plan to remove the inner CV joint)
• 🔦 Flashlight or carrier - lighting under the car is critical!

Removing the wheel and accessing the hub

Start by loosening the hub nut with the car running (the car must be on the ground!). To do this:

1. Put the car on the handbrake and engage first gear (or P for automatic transmission).
2. Remove the protective cap from the hub (pry it off with a screwdriver).
3. Place the head on 32 mm and an extension cord, then jerk loosen the nut (it is very tight!).

Now you can lift the car. Once the wheel is removed you will see the brake caliper, brake rotor and hub. Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (head on 14 mm) and hang it on a wire to a spring - do not leave hanging on the hose! Remove the brake disc (it may “stick” - tap with a rubber hammer).

Next, unscrew the two mounting bolts ball joint to the steering knuckle (head on 17 mm). Problems often arise here:

• 🔩 The bolts may be sour - treat with WD-40 10-15 minutes before unscrewing.
• 🔩 If the bolts do not fit, try heating them with a construction hairdryer (do not overheat the boot!).

Dismantling the hub and removing the drive

After unscrewing the ball joint, you must press out your finger from the steering knuckle. To do this:

1. Install the puller and slowly squeeze it until the pin comes out.
2. If there is no puller, use a pry bar: rest it against the lever and hit your fist with a hammer next to the finger (not on the finger itself!).

Now you can unscrew the hub nut completely and remove the hub and bearing. Be careful - it may “stick” on the drive splines. If the hub does not come off:

• 🔨 Knock on its end through the wooden spacer.
• 🔨 Use a puller or two crowbars, resting them on the hub on opposite sides.

After removing the hub you will see drive splined end. Gently pull it towards you - if it does not come out, it means that the inner CV joint is secured in the box with a retaining ring. To remove the drive completely, you will need:

1. Unscrew the three mounting bolts internal CV joint to the box (head on 10 mm).
2. Use a pry bar to pry off the CV joint housing and remove the drive in one sharp movement (don't twist it!).

⚠️ Attention: When removing the drive from the box Nissan Qashqai transmission oil may leak (especially on models with M9R). Place the container and be prepared to add oil after reassembly!

Drive disassembly and diagnostics

After removing the drive, inspect it for damage:

• 🔍 Anthers: Cracks, tears or traces of oil inside indicate the need for replacement.
• 🔍 CV joints: Rock the outer and inner hinges - play is unacceptable!
• 🔍 Splines: Wear or corrosion on the splined end of the drive requires replacement of the entire shaft.

If the boot is damaged, but the CV joint itself is still “alive”, you can get by by replacing the boot and lubricant. To do this:

1. Remove the boot clamps (use pliers).
2. Move the boot and inspect the grease - if it is black or with metal shavings, the CV joint needs to be replaced.
3. Wash the hinge with kerosene, apply new grease (Molykote BR2 Plus or equivalent) and install a new boot.

To completely disassemble the drive (for example, when replacing a bearing), you will need a snap ring puller and a press. At home this is risky - it is better to contact a service.

Symptom	Probable Cause	Solution
Crunch when turning	Wear of the outer CV joint	Replacing the CV joint or the entire drive
Vibration at speeds of 60–80 km/h	Worn inner CV joint or splines	Diagnostics on the lift, drive replacement
Oil leak from under boot	Boot rupture, lubricant washed out	Replacing the boot and lubricant (if the CV joint is intact)
Play when rocking the wheel	Worn wheel bearing or CV joint	Replacing a Bearing or Drive

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with drives Nissan Qashqai. Here are the most common:

1. Retightening the hub nut. This leads to bearing destruction. Always use a torque wrench!
2. Damage to the boot during removal. Never pry it off with a screwdriver - use special pullers or carefully cut off the old boot if it needs to be replaced.
3. Installing the drive without fixing the locking ring. This is fraught with the risk of the CV joint flying out of the box while driving!
4. Using an old hub nut. The nut becomes deformed when tightened - always use a new one (part number for Qashqai J10/J11: 40520-4M000).

Another common problem is incorrect drive installation after repair. The drive must fit into the box until it clicks (this is secured by a locking ring). If you feel resistance, do not hit the shaft with a hammer - check to see if the CV joint is warped during installation.

What happens if you don't replace a damaged boot?

If you ignore the rupture of the boot, dirt and moisture will get inside the CV joint. After 500–1000 km of driving, the hinge will begin to crunch, and after another 2–3 thousand km it will jam. In the worst case, the CV joint may fall apart while driving, which will lead to loss of control and an accident.

Assembly and testing after installation

Installation of the drive is carried out in the reverse order, but there are several critical points:

1. Before installation, clean the splines on the drive and hub from dirt and rust.
2. Apply a thin layer copper grease onto the splines - this will make future dismantling easier.
3. Tighten the hub nut in two stages: first “drive” it, then finally tighten it with a torque wrench.

After assembly, be sure to check:

• 🔄 Wheel play. Rock it in the vertical and horizontal planes - there should be no play.
• 🔄 Suspension travel. Pump the car by the bumper - there should be no extraneous sounds.
• 🔄 Oil leak. Start the engine and check if oil is oozing from under the gearbox boot.

For the first 50–100 km after repair, avoid sharp starts and turns at high speed - this will help the new lubricant to be evenly distributed in the CV joint.

Compatibility of spare parts and analogues

When purchasing a new drive or drive components, it is important to consider engine and gearbox modification. Below is the compatibility table for Nissan Qashqai J10/J11:

Model	Engine	Original drive part number	Popular analogues
Qashqai J10 (2007–2013)	HR16DE (1.6)	39300-4M000 (right)	GKN ADG00134, Febi 28663
Qashqai J10/J11	MR20DE (2.0)	39300-4M010 (right)	SKF VKDA 36036, Mapco 65409
Qashqai J11 (2014–2021)	M9R (1.6 dCi)	39300-4M020 (right)	GSP NCV30013, Metelli 18-0384

When choosing analogues, pay attention to:

• 🔧 Drive length. On Qashqai with MR20DE it is longer than HR16DE.
• 🔧 CV joint type. On diesel versions, the internal joint is often a "tripod" rather than a ball joint.
• 🔧 Complete set. Some kits do not include retaining rings or clamps - you will have to purchase them separately.

If you are buying a used drive, be sure to check:

• 🔍 Condition of the anthers (are there any microcracks).
• 🔍 Play in CV joints (even minimal is unacceptable!).
• 🔍 Splines on the end of the shaft (should not be “licked”).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Nissan Qashqai drives

Is it possible to drive with a torn boot if the CV joint does not crunch?

No! Even if the CV joint is not crunching yet, dirt and moisture have already gotten inside. After 500–1000 km, the hinge will begin to collapse. The maximum that can be done is to temporarily wrap the boot with electrical tape (just to get to the service!).

What lubricant should I fill the CV joint on a Qashqai?

The best option is Molykote BR2 Plus (article 3452). Analogs are also suitable: Liqui Moly LM47 or Castrol Optimol Longtime 2. Don't use regular Litol-24 — it can’t withstand the load!

How much does it cost to replace a drive at a service center?

Prices depend on the region and complexity of the work:

• Replacement of outer CV joint: RUB 2,500–4,000.
• Replacement of the entire drive: 4,000–7,000 RUR (including spare parts).
• Replacing the boot: 1,500–2,500 RUR.

Self-repair will cost 2-3 times cheaper (price of spare parts: drive - 5,000-12,000 ₽, boot - 300-800 ₽).

Why did a hum appear at speed after replacing the drive?

Probable reasons:

1. The hub nut is not tightened correctly (overtightened or undertightened).
2. The wheel bearing is damaged during removal/installation.
3. A non-original drive with an imbalance has been installed.
4. The wheel is not balanced after repair.

Urgently check the tightness of the nut and the condition of the bearing!

Is it possible to replace only the inner CV joint without removing the drive?

Technically possible, but extremely inconvenient. To replace the inner CV joint you will have to:

1. Remove the drive from the machine.
2. Disassemble it, press out the old CV joint and press in the new one.
3. Replace the retaining ring and boot.

In most cases, it is easier and cheaper to buy an assembled drive (especially if you take into account the cost of re-pressing).