Removing a manual transmission on a Nissan Almera N16: a complete guide with photos and tips

Removing a manual transmission (Manual transmission) on Nissan Almera N16 (2000–2006) is a task that owners face when overhauling the clutch, replacing bearings or the gearbox itself. The process is labor-intensive, but doable in a garage if you have the tools and patience. The main difficulty lies in the weight of the unit (about 30–35 kg) and the need to strictly follow the sequence of actions so as not to damage the connecting elements.

In this article we will analyze the dismantling process step by step, indicate the necessary tools, highlight critical moments (for example, fixing the engine before removing the gearbox) and provide a table with the tightening torques of the key bolts. We will pay special attention to typical errors that lead to damage to the input shaft or flywheel. If you have never done such work, we recommend that you hire an assistant, at least to insure the box when lowering it.

Preparing to remove the manual transmission: tools and conditions

Before starting work, make sure you have everything you need. Nissan Almera N16 with engines QG15DE (1.5 l) or QG18DE (1.8 l) have a similar gearbox mounting design, but may differ in small details (for example, the location of sensors). Basic set of tools:

• 🔧 Set of heads and collars (required) 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm)
• 🔧 Extension for the collar (minimum 10 cm)
• 🔧 Ratchet handle
• 🔧 Jack and body supports (or lift)
• 🔧 Crowbar and hammer (to separate the gearbox from the engine)
• 🔧 Torque wrench (for tightening bolts during reassembly)
• 🔧 Container for draining oil from the gearbox (if replacement is planned)
• 🔧 Marker or chalk for marks on the cardan and flange

In addition to tools, prepare your workspace:

• 🚗 The car must be parked flat surface (asphalt, concrete). Earth or gravel will not work - the jack may sag.
• 🔋 Disable negative battery terminal to avoid short circuit.
• 🛢️ Drain the oil from the gearbox (if you plan to repair or replace it). Oil volume in manual transmission Almera N16 - about 2.3–2.5 liters.
• 📸 Take a photo of the location of the wires and tubes before disconnecting them (especially important for the speed sensor and clutch cable).

⚠️ Attention: If you are removing the transmission to replace the clutch, do not press the clutch pedal after disconnecting the cable! This can lead to displacement of the release bearing and damage to the basket petals.

Removing protection and preparing the underbody of the car

The first stage is providing access to the checkpoint. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the engine and gearbox protection (if installed), as well as remove a number of elements that interfere with dismantling:

1. Remove crankcase protection (fastening with 4–6 bolts 10 mm).
2. Disconnect clutch cable from the shutdown plug. To do this, loosen the nut securing the cable to the bracket (wrench 12 mm) and remove the cable from the lever.
3. Unscrew clutch slave cylinder (two bolts 12 mm) and move it to the side without disconnecting the hydraulic line.
4. Remove starter (three bolts: two 14 mm and one 12 mm). This will make it easier to access the upper gearbox bolts.
5. Disconnect speed sensor (connector with lock) and speedometer cable (if a mechanical drive is installed).

At this stage it is also recommended to remove left engine mount (subframe), as it interferes with pulling out the gearbox. To do this:

• Support the engine with a jack through a wooden spacer (so as not to damage the pan).
• Unscrew the three bolts securing the support to the body (14 mm) and two bolts to the gearbox (17 mm).
• Lower the jack 3-5 cm to raise the engine slightly and free up room for maneuver.

Disconnecting the driveshaft and wheel drives

Before removing the gearbox, it is necessary to disconnect it from the transmission. On Almera N16 with front wheel drive this includes disconnecting wheel drives (CV joints) and (if available) cardan shaft on models with all-wheel drive. Let's consider both options.

For front wheel drive versions (most N16)

Algorithm of actions:

1. Remove left front wheel and unscrew the hub nut (32 mm).
2. Disconnect CV joint from the hub using a puller or pry bar (be careful not to damage the boot!).
3. Pull the inner CV joint out of the gearbox by pulling the shaft towards you. If it does not budge, lightly tap the flange through the soft gasket with a hammer.
4. Repeat the procedure for right drive.

For all-wheel drive versions (4WD)

Additionally you will need:

• Mark the position with a marker cardan shaft relative to the gearbox flange (to maintain balancing during reassembly).
• Unscrew the four bolts securing the cardan to the gearbox (14 mm).
• Lower the cardan down and secure it with wire to the suspension elements.

⚠️ Attention: When disconnecting drives do not allow CV joints to sag under weight - this can lead to damage to the anthers or even rupture of the internal grenade. Hang the drives with wire to the strut spring.

Removing the gearbox: step-by-step instructions

Now we move on to the most important stage - removing the gearbox from the engine. Important: the box weighs 30–35 kg, so it’s difficult to do without an assistant or a winch. Sequence of actions:

1. Unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine. There are only 6 pieces:
   • The two top bolts (14 mm) - accessible from the engine compartment.
   • Four bottom bolts (17 mm) - unscrew from the bottom. For convenience, use the wrench extension.
2. Disconnect the box from the engine. Insert a pry bar between the gearbox and the cylinder block (in the area of the top bolt) and carefully separate them. If the box is stuck, do not use excessive force - tap the gearbox housing with a hammer through the wooden gasket.
3. Lower the gearbox down. To do this:
   • Place wooden blocks under the box or use a transmission jack.
   • Slowly lower the transmission, making sure that the input shaft does not touch the flywheel.
   • If the box “bites”, check that all the bolts are unscrewed and that the clutch cable is not in the way.

After the gearbox is completely separated, pull it back (towards the trunk) and lower it to the floor. Be careful: the input shaft may be sharp and the weight of the box may not be evenly distributed.

What to do if the gearbox does not separate from the engine?

If the box does not move off the guides even after unscrewing all the bolts, the reason may be:

• Acidification of the input shaft in the flywheel — try turning the shaft by hand (through the clutch window) and at the same time rocking the gearbox.
• Clutch housing deformation — inspect the joint for burrs.
• Unconnected cable or wire - Check all connectors again.

As a last resort, use a gearbox puller or contact service.

Tightening moments and critical nuances

When reassembling incorrect tightening of bolts can lead to vibrations, oil leaks or even destruction of the gearbox housing. Below is a table with tightening torques for key connections:

element	Bolt size	Tightening torque (Nm)	Notes
Bolts securing the gearbox to the engine	M10 (top)	40–45	Tighten crosswise
Bolts securing the gearbox to the engine	M12 (lower)	60–65	Use a torque wrench
Hub nut	M20x1.5	200–220	Tighten with vehicle lowered
Starter mounting bolts	M10	35–40	Clean threads before tightening
Engine Mount Bolts	M12	50–55	Tighten after installing the gearbox

Pay special attention to the following points:

• 🔧 Clutch disc alignment. When installing the gearbox back, use centering mandrel (can be made from the input shaft of an old gearbox). Without alignment, the clutch disc will hit, which will lead to vibrations.
• 🛢️ Replacing oil seals. Always change gearbox input shaft oil seal And crankshaft oil seal (from the flywheel side) when removing the box. Their cost is low, and an oil leak after assembly will cost more.
• 🔄 Checking the flywheel. Inspect the flywheel surface for scoring or cracks. If they are present, the flywheel must be replaced or re-grooved.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced technicians sometimes make mistakes when removing a manual transmission. Almera N16. Here are the most common ones and how to prevent them:

• 🔧 Damage to the input shaft. If you remove the gearbox carelessly, the shaft may touch the flywheel, which will lead to scuffing. Solution: Before removing, check that the shaft rotates freely and does not rest against the flywheel.
• 🔌 Broken sensor wires.Solution: Before removing the gearbox, disconnect everything connectors and secure the wires to the side.
• 🛠️ Loss of small parts. During disassembly, retaining rings, washers or even bearings (for example, release) are lost. Solution: Use a magnetic tray and place parts in labeled containers.
• 🔩 Broken threads in the engine block. The gearbox bolts are screwed into an aluminum block, which is easy to damage. Solution: Always clean the threads with a tap before tightening and do not exceed the torque.

Another typical problem is incorrect installation of the clutch cable after assembly. If the cable is tightened, the clutch will “drive”; if it is loosened, it will “slip”. You can check the setting like this:

1. Press the clutch pedal all the way and measure the free play (should be 20–30 mm).
2. Adjust the stroke using the nut on the cable bracket (key 12 mm).

Frequently asked questions about removing a manual transmission on a Nissan Almera N16

Is it possible to remove the gearbox on an Almera N16 without removing the subframe?

Technically you can, but this will significantly complicate the process. The subframe prevents the gearbox from being pulled back, so removing it saves 1-2 hours of work. If you decide to do without this, be prepared for acrobatic efforts with the mount and the risk of damaging the CV joint boots.

What kind of oil should I fill in the manual transmission after installation?

For Nissan Almera N16 gear oil recommended API GL-4 with viscosity 75W-80 or 75W-90. Volume - 2.3–2.5 liters. Popular brands: Motul Gear 300, Liqui Moly Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil, Nissan MT-XZ (original).

How long does it take to remove the gearbox?

Time depends on experience and conditions:

• Newbie (without assistant): 6–8 hours.
• Experienced master (with assistant and lift): 3–4 hours.
• Service center: 2–3 hours (including diagnostics).

Most of the time is spent on unscrewing “stuck” bolts and fighting rust.

What should I do if noise appears after installing the gearbox?

Noise after assembly can indicate several problems:

• Lack of oil — check the level and add if necessary.
• Damaged input shaft bearing — disassembly of the gearbox is required.
• Incorrect clutch installation — check the disk alignment.
• Transmission mounting bolts are loose - pull them up with the correct torque.

If the noise is metallic and appears at idle, the problem is most likely in the release bearing.

Is it possible to remove the gearbox without draining the oil?

Technically you can, but highly undesirable. When the gearbox is tilted, oil may leak out through the breather or seals, contaminating the working area. In addition, if you remove the box for repairs, the oil will still have to be drained (for example, to replace oil seals or bearings). An exception is if the gearbox is removed to access other components (for example, replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal).