Iconic Nissan Silvia S14 has long been an object of worship among drifters and tuning enthusiasts. But to stand out from hundreds of identical “boxes”, radical solutions are needed - and this is where the legendary aero kit comes into play Rocket Bunny Version 2. This kit doesn't just change the appearance of the car: it rewrites the rules of the game, turning the humble coupe into an aggressive track monster with a unique aura.
However, behind the exclusive look there are nuances that the manufacturer is silent about. From incompatibility with some S14 modifications to the intricacies of installing bumpers - each stage requires precise calculations. In this guide we will look at all aspects working with Rocket Bunny: from choosing the configuration to the final painting, with an emphasis on typical mistakes and non-obvious life hacks from professional tuners.
What is Rocket Bunny for Silvia S14 and why is it not just a body kit
Kit Rocket Bunny Version 2 for Nissan Silvia S14 (1993–1998) - these are not just plastic linings, but a full-fledged aerostructure developed by a Japanese company Tra Kyoto (previously known as Pandem). Unlike mass body kits, this whale:
- 🔧 Integrated with body — the front bumper is attached to the side members, and not with screws to the donor bumper.
- 💨 Functional — the rear diffuser and splitter really affect downforce at speeds from 120 km/h.
- 🎨 Unique — each kit is hand-finished, so no two Rocket Bunny cars will ever be identical.
- ⚠️ Needs improvements — it is impossible to install a kit without cutting the body (with the exception of the “light” version for rides).
It is important to understand: Rocket Bunny - this is not a universal solution. For example, a whale for S14 Kouki (1996–1998) not suitable for Zenki (1993–1996) without rework. Even within one version there are variations: for example, a bumper for cars with SR20DET may not fit on the car with CA18DET due to different radiators.
⚠️ Attention: Original kits Rocket Bunny supplied without fastening elements. In the box you will find only fiberglass parts - all bolts, nuts and brackets will have to be purchased separately or made to order.
The price of the issue also varies: from $3,500 for the basic kit (without wings) to $8,000+ for the full version with carbon elements. At the same time 90% cost It will not be spent on purchasing, but on installation, painting and modification of the body. Prepare for the fact that the car will sit in the workshop for at least 2-3 months.
- Front bumper
- Rear diffuser
- Front fenders
- Hind wings
- Splitter and canards
Compatibility: Which Silvia S14 fits Rocket Bunny
Despite the fact that the kit is positioned as universal for S14, in practice there are critical nuances. Here are the key parameters that determine compatibility:
| Modification S14 | Rocket Bunny compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Silvia S14 Zenki (1993–1996) | Partial | The front bumper and rear fender mounts need modification. Installation problems on models with CA18DE. |
| Silvia S14 Kouki (1996–1998) | Full | The best option for installation. Minimal modifications — just trimming the arches. |
| 180SX (based on S14) | Limited | Only the rear part of the whale (diffuser and wings). The front bumper does not fit due to the different hood shape. |
| 200SX (S14) for the European market | Partial | Front splitter mounting problems due to different fog lights. |
Pay special attention body type:
- 🚗 Coupe (2-door) — full compatibility with whale.
- 🚘 Hatchback (200SX) — only the rear elements, the front part will have to be adapted to the shape of the hood.
- 🔧 Convertible — installation is possible, but requires reinforcement of the side members (the standard kit is not designed for the lack of roof rigidity).
Another critical point - engine. For example, if you are planning a swap on 2JZ-GTE or RB26DETT, please note that:
- A larger radiator may not fit under the standard Rocket Bunny front bumper.
- The intercooler will require modification of the air ducts in the bumper.
- An exhaust system with a custom-shaped downpipe will rest against the rear diffuser.
Engine details
For series engines SR20 (especially with a turbine Garrett GT28) the kit fits almost without modifications. But for CA18DET you will have to cut the inside of the front bumper for the oil cooler. Owners VQ35DE (swap from 350Z) are faced with the problem of attaching the radiator - it has to be moved forward by 3-5 cm, which requires modification of the splitter.
Step-by-step installation of Rocket Bunny: from body cutting to final assembly
Installing a kit takes on average 100–150 man-hours and takes place in 5 key stages. Let's look at each with an emphasis on the pitfalls.
1. Preparing the body: what needs to be done BEFORE buying a whale
The first and most important step is body condition assessment. Rocket Bunny does not hide rust or dents, but rather highlights them. Mandatory procedures:
- 🔍 Check the side members for through corrosion (especially in the places where the bumpers are attached).
- 📏 Measure the geometry of the body - if the car is broken, the whale will lie crooked.
- 🧽 Completely remove old putty and paint in the cutting areas (otherwise the fiberglass will not stick).
List of tools you can't do without:
Angle grinder (grinder) with a disc for metal | Welding machine (semi-automatic or argon) | Set of drills for metal (from 3 to 10 mm) | Epoxy glue for fiberglass (for example, 3M 08115>)|Putty with aluminum dust for reinforcement|Respirator and glasses (required!)|Laser level for leveling parts-->
Critical moment: You can’t cut the body without first marking it. Use masking tape and a marker to mark the cutting lines using the templates that came with the kit. An error of even 5 mm will result in the parts not matching.
2. Installation of the front bumper and splitter
The hardest part of the job. Procedure:
- Remove the standard bumper and engine protection.
- Cut out part of the front fender according to the template (to integrate the canards).
- Try on the Rocket Bunny bumper and mark the attachment points to the side members.
- Drill holes and weld brackets (they are not included!).
- Install the splitter - it is attached not only to the bumper, but also to the subframe.
⚠️ Attention: If you are using an oil cooler or an additional radiator, check their location in advance. In 30% of cases, it is necessary to modify the inside of the bumper to avoid overheating.
A typical mistake is incorrect installation angle of the splitter. It must be parallel to the ground, otherwise at speeds above 140 km/h the car will “squat” on the front axle.
Before finally fixing the bumper, wrap it with masking tape and paint it in the body color. This way you will see how the kit looks assembled, and you can adjust the gaps before painting.
3. Installation of rear diffuser and wings
The back of the whale is less problematic, but there are some nuances here:
- The diffuser is attached to the standard bumper locations, but requires gain - without additional brackets it can crack when hitting a curb.
- The rear fenders are installed on top of the standard ones, but they will have to be
cut along the archesto avoid the "step". - For models with wide wheels (ET less than 0) the arches will need to be rolled out.
Example: if you put wheels 18×9.5J ET+15 with rubber 235/40, the rear fenders of the Rocket Bunny will have to be cut and widened by 20–30 mm.
Painting and finishing: how to avoid peeling and cracking
Fiberglass is a capricious material. If you violate the painting technology, after a year the whale will begin to crack or move away from the body. Here required steps preparation:
- Fiberglass processing:
- Clean all parts with sandpaper
P80to remove gloss. - Apply 2 coats of epoxy primer (e.g. PPG DP40).
- Fill microcracks with fiberglass putty.
- Clean all parts with sandpaper
- Reinforcement of joints:
- Tape all seams between the whale and the body with aluminum tape 3M 4251.
- Apply epoxy glue with a reinforcing mat on the inside.
- Painting:
- Use only flexible paints (For example, Sikkens Autowave).
- Apply at least 3 layers of varnish with drying time of 24 hours between them.
The most common problem is wing separation. This happens due to:
- 🔥 Insufficient cleaning of the body before gluing.
- 💧 Moisture getting under the whale (especially important for cars operated in winter).
- 🚗 Vibrations when driving on bad roads (solved by installing additional fasteners).
Use polyurethane glue (For example, 3M 08693) for fixing parts - it retains elasticity and does not crack due to temperature changes.
The average cost of high-quality painting of a whale is $1,500–$3,000, depending on the complexity of the color (metallic or mother-of-pearl will cost more). You can’t save money here - cheap painting will lead to the fact that in a year the whale will begin to “bubble”.
Tuning for Rocket Bunny: what else needs to be improved
Installing the aero kit is only half the battle. To make the car look harmonious and drive appropriately, additional modifications will be required:
1. Suspension and wheels
Standard suspension Silvia S14 not designed for the weight of the Rocket Bunny (a whale adds ~40–50 kg). Minimal changes:
- 🔧 Install reinforced springs (For example, Tein Street Basis or BC Racing BR Series).
- 🛞 Go to wheels with parameters:
- Diameter:
17–18 inches. - Width:
9–10J(for Rocket Bunny rear wings). - Departure:
ET 0–15(otherwise the wheels will catch on the arches).
- Diameter:
- 🔩 Replace wheel bearings - the increased track creates additional load on them.
2. Engine and transmission
An aggressive appearance requires appropriate dynamics. Popular modifications:
- 🔥 Turbo kit for
SR20DE(turns intoSR20DET) - adding a turbine Garrett GT2860, intercooler and fuel system. - ⚡ Swap on
2JZ-GTE- requires modification of the subframe and gearbox (usually Getrag 240 from Supra). - 🔄 Increased grip (For example, Nismo Twin Plate) - the standard one cannot withstand torques above 400 Nm.
Swap budget example 1JZ-GTE (used engine + gearbox + attachments):
| Component | Cost, $ |
|---|---|
Engine 1JZ-GTE (contract) |
2,500–3,500 |
| Gearbox R154 | 1,200–1,800 |
| Clutch bell adapter | 300–500 |
| ECU (eg Haltech Elite 2500) | 1,500–2,000 |
| Fuel system (pump, injectors, rack) | 1,000–1,500 |
3. Interior and details
To complete the look, don't forget about:
- 🎛️ Sports steering wheel (For example, Nardi Deep Corn or Momo Mod. 78).
- 🪑 Bucket seats (budget option - Bride Zeta III, premium - Recaro SRD).
- 🔥 Handbrake and gearshift lever from Nismo or TRD.
- 🎶 Audio system — the Rocket Bunny doesn’t have room for a subwoofer in the trunk, so they often install component speakers in the doors.
How much does Silvia S14 cost with Rocket Bunny: price analysis and market
Price Nissan Silvia S14 with installed Rocket Bunny ranges from $20,000 to $100,000+. Let’s figure out what the cost depends on and where it’s better to buy.
1. Prices for the kits themselves
Original whales from Tra Kyoto Sold through dealers in Japan and the USA. Current prices (2026):
- Rocket Bunny V2 Full Kit (bumpers, fenders, diffuser) — $6,500–$8,000.
- Rocket Bunny V2 Light (bumpers and splitter only) — $3,500–$4,500.
- Additional items (canards, cantilevers) - $800–$1,500 for the detail.
On the secondary market (for example, on Yahoo! Japan Auctions) you can find used kits for $2,000–$4,000, but the risk of running into cracked parts or a fake is very high.
⚠️ Attention: There are many replicas of Rocket Bunny on the market from Chinese manufacturers (for example, D-Max or KBD Bodykits). They are 2–3 times cheaper, but have problems with geometry and fastenings. The original is different:
- 🏷️ Availability of a hologram Tra Kyoto on the inside of the parts.
- 🔍 Perfect fit of joints (gaps do not exceed 1-2 mm).
- 🧲 The magnet does not stick to fiberglass (metal reinforcement is often used in replicas).
2. Cost of the finished car
Prices for Silvia S14 with Rocket Bunny depend on the configuration:
| Vehicle type | Price, $ | What's included |
|---|---|---|
| Budget project | 20,000–35,000 | Stock engine, Rocket Bunny replica, suspension Tein Basic. |
| Intermediate level | 40,000–60,000 | The original Rocket Bunny, SR20DET with turbo kit, wheels Work Meister S1. |
| Top build | 70,000–100,000+ | Swap 2JZ-GTE or RB26DETT, full carbon Rocket Bunny suspension Ohlins. |
Where to look:
- 🇯🇵 Japan — Yahoo! Japan Auctions, Goonews. Prices are lower, but importer's help is needed.
- 🇺🇸 USA — JDM Buysell, Speedhunters Marketplace. There are many ready-made projects, but the prices are too high.
- 🇷🇺 Russia/CIS — Drom.ru, Avito, Telegram groups. There is a risk of running into a “repainted” car with a problematic history.
Before purchasing a finished car, be sure to request photo of side members and welding points. Rust or the consequences of an accident are often hidden under the Rocket Bunny.
Typical problems and how to avoid them
Even professionally assembled ones Silvia S14 With Rocket Bunny, typical problems arise over time. Here are the most common ones and how to prevent them:
1. Cracks on the bumper and fenders
Reasons:
- 🚗 Vibrations from unbalanced wheels.
- 🌡️ Temperature changes (especially relevant for cars operated in winter).
- 🔧 Incorrect installation (lack of joint reinforcement).
Solution:
- Use polyurethane glue instead of epoxy.
- Install additional brackets under the wings.
- Regularly check the gaps between parts (they should not exceed 2 mm).
2. Engine overheating
Rocket Bunny suffers from poor cooling due to:
- 🔥 Poor ventilation of the engine compartment (splitter blocks air flow).
- 💦 Reduced ground clearance (risk of radiator damage).
How to fight:
- Install oil cooler with separate radiator.
- Replace the standard radiator with Koyorad or Mishimoto with increased capacity.
- Modify the front bumper by adding air intakes for the intercooler.
3. Suspension problems
The increased track and weight of the whale leads to:
- 🔧 Rapid wear of wheel bearings.
- 🚗 I pull the car to the side when braking.
Solution:
- Install reinforced levers (For example, Ikeya Formula).
- Adjust wheel alignment including new wheels.
- Use polyurethane bushings instead of rubber ones.
If you notice that the car has become “soft” in turns, check:
- Condition anti-roll bars.
- Pressure in shock absorbers (maybe it's time to change the gas).
- Puff subframe mounting bolts.
FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions
Is it possible to install a Rocket Bunny on a Silvia S14 without cutting the body?
No, that's impossible. Even the "light" version of the whale requires the front fenders to be trimmed to integrate the canards. The complete set involves cutting:
- Front and rear arches (for wide fenders).
- Side members (for attaching the front bumper).
- Rear bumper (for installing a diffuser).
If you want a no-cut body kit, consider the alternatives: C-West, Origin Labo or Tommy Kaira.
How long does a complete Rocket Bunny installation take?
The timing depends on the workshop and the complexity of the work:
- Body preparation (cutting, welding, putty) - 2–3 weeks.
- Kit installation — 1–2 weeks.
- Painting and polishing — 1–2 weeks (including drying).
- Suspension and wheel modifications — 3–5 days.
In total - 1.5–3 months. Please note that many workshops take advance payment and work on a schedule, so you need to sign up in advance.
Which engine is better for Rocket Bunny?
The choice depends on your budget and goals:
- Budget option —
SR20DETwith turbo kit (Garrett GT2860 + Nistune ECU). Power: 300–350 hp Budget: $5,000–$7,000. - Balanced choice —
1JZ-GTEor2JZ-GEwith a turbine. Power: 400–500 hp Budget: $10,000–$15,000. - Top project —
RB26DETTorVR38DETT(from Nissan GT-R). Power: 600+ hp Budget: $20,000+.
Better suited for drifting SR20DET or 1JZ-GTE — they are more responsive at low speeds. For the track - 2JZ-GTE or RB26DETT.
Is it possible to drive a Silvia S14 with Rocket Bunny in winter?
Technically possible, but there are risks:
- 🌨️ Snow and salt destroy fiberglass - the whale may begin to crack after 1-2 winters.
- 🚗 Low ground clearance - sleep