Constant velocity joint (CV joint), or “grenade”, is one of the most loaded components of the chassis Nissan Almera Classic (body B10, 2006–2012). Despite its simple design, its failure can immobilize the car at the most inopportune moment. Owners Almeri Classic often face the problem of CV joint wear after 80–100 thousand km mileage, especially when driving aggressively or on bad roads.
In this article we will look at how independently diagnose a CV joint malfunction on Nissan Almera Classic, what original and similar spare parts are suitable for replacement, and also give step-by-step instructions for dismantling and installing a new hinge. We will pay special attention to the typical mistakes that car owners make during repairs and the nuances of choosing a lubricant to extend the service life of the unit.
Signs of a CV joint failure on a Nissan Almera Classic
First signs of wear internal or external CV joint on Almere Classic often confused with suspension or transmission problems. However, there are characteristic signs that will help to accurately identify the breakdown:
- 🔊 Crunch when turning - the most obvious signal. The sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned sharply at low speeds (for example, when parking). On Almera Classic suffers more often outer CV jointbecause it experiences heavy loads.
- 🛑 Jerks during acceleration. If the car jerks when starting from a standstill, this may indicate wear. internal CV joint or lack of lubrication in the joint.
- 🔄 Vibration on the steering wheel when driving at speed
60–80 km/h. It most often appears when the boot is damaged and dirt gets into the mechanism. - 💧 Lubricant on the wheel rim. If traces of thick grease are visible under the car or on the inside of the wheel, this means that the boot is torn and the CV joint requires urgent replacement.
On Nissan Almera Classic with engines 1.5 (QR15DE) And 1.6 (QG16DE) fails more often right outer CV joint due to greater load when turning. Internal hinges last longer, but their diagnosis is more difficult - removal of the drive is required.
⚠️ Attention! If you ignore the crunching of the CV joint, it can lead to drive jamming on the go. On Almera Classic with a manual transmission this is fraught with loss of control, and with a variator (CVT) - damage to the box.
What CV joint is on the Nissan Almera Classic: original vs analogues
On Nissan Almera Classic (B10) Two types of CV joints were installed:
- 🔧 Outdoor (wheel side) - art.
39310-4M000(right) and39310-4M001(left). - 🔄 Internal (from the checkpoint side) - art.
39300-4M000(for manual transmission) and39300-1M000(for variator).
Original spare parts from Nissan are expensive (from 5,000 rub. per piece), but guarantee a long service life. However, there are proven analogues that are not inferior in quality:
| CV joint type | Original (Nissan) | Analogs (recommended) | Price, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|
| External (right/left) | 39310-4M000/001 |
GKN (Spidan) 501010, SKF VKJA 6633 |
2 500–3 800 |
| Internal (manual transmission) | 39300-4M000 |
Febi 28300, Mapco 61006 |
3 000–4 200 |
| Internal (variator) | 39300-1M000 |
NTN-SNR JJ3010 |
3 500–4 800 |
| Anther set | 39380-4M000 |
Corteco 2001010S, Elring 405.130 |
800–1 200 |
When choosing an analogue, pay attention to quality of metal and bearings. Cheap Chinese CV joints (for example, Febest or Master-sport) often fail within 20–30 thousand km. The best option in terms of price/quality - brands GKN, SKF or NTN-SNR.
- Original Nissan
- GKN/Spidan
- SKF
- Febi/Mapco
- Other brand
Step-by-step instructions for replacing a CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic
Replacement outer CV joint on Almera Classic does not require special tools and can be done in a garage. To work you will need:
- 🔧 Set of sockets and keys (
17 mm,19 mm,22 mm). - 🔨 Hammer and pry bar.
- 🔑 Retaining ring remover (if you plan to replace the internal CV joint).
- 🧴 Grease for CV joints (Molykote BR2 Plus or LIQUI MOLY LM47).
- 🔧 Jack and stops.
Procedure:
Raise the car on a jack, remove the wheel and unscrew the hub nut (
30 mm). Use an extension for the lever - the tightening torque is high!Disconnect the steering knuckle and ball joint from the steering knuckle. To do this, unscrew the nuts (
17 mm) and press out the fingers with a pry bar.Remove the CV joint from the hub by pulling the steering knuckle towards you. If the drive does not come out, gently tap the wooden spacer with a hammer.
Remove the boot clamps and slide it along the shaft. If the boot is torn, be sure to replace it!
Knock off the retaining ring on the shaft (if there is one) and remove the old CV joint. To install a new one, use a hammer and a mandrel to avoid damaging the seal.
Apply grease to the joint (approx. 80–100 g) and install a new boot with clamps.
Is the hub nut tightened (torque 220–250 Nm)|
Are new snap rings installed (if the inner CV joint was removed)|
Are there any kinks on the boot?
Are the boot clamps closed with special pliers|
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For replacement internal CV joint you will need to remove the entire drive from the box. It is important here not to damage the gearbox seal. If play appears after installation, check bearing in box - on Almera Classic it often wears out at the same time as the CV joint.
⚠️ Attention! On vehicles with variator (CVT) when replacing the inner CV joint, it is necessary update the oil in the box, since when the drive is removed, some of the fluid leaks out. Ignoring this rule may lead to overheating of the variator.
Typical mistakes when replacing a CV joint on an Almera Classic
Even experienced car owners make mistakes that shorten the service life of a new CV joint. Here are the most common:
- 🔧 Insufficient tightening of the hub nut. On Almera Classic the tightening torque should be 220–250 Nm. If the nut is not tightened enough, there will be play that will quickly destroy the new CV joint.
- 🧴 Saving on lubrication. Cheap lubricants (for example, Litol-24) do not withstand high loads and temperatures, which leads to accelerated wear.
- 🔄 Reusing circlips. They become deformed when removed and do not provide reliable fixation.
- 🚗 Ignoring anther check. Even a small crack will lead to dirt getting in and failure of the CV joint through 5–10 thousand km.
Another common problem is incorrect installation of the boot. It must be put on without twisting and secured special clamps, and not with wire or plastic ties. On Almera Classic original clamps Nissan (39385-4M000) more reliable than analogues.
Before installing a new CV joint, check the condition of the gearbox seal. If it leaks, replace it at the same time as the CV joint to avoid repeated disassembly.
How to extend the life of the CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic
Average CV joint resource per Almera Classic — 100–150 thousand km, but with proper operation this figure can be increased to 200 thousand km. Here are the key recommendations:
- 🛣️ Avoid abrupt starts with the wheels turned out (for example, when driving out of snow or mud). This creates maximum load on the outer CV joint.
- 🔧 Check the boots regularly (every 15 thousand km). Even a small crack allows moisture and abrasive to enter.
- 🧴 Use quality lubricant. Optimal options:
- Molykote BR2 Plus - the best choice for high loads.
- LIQUI MOLY LM47 — universal lubricant with molybdenum.
- Castrol LMX - a budget but reliable option.
- 🚘 Change the gearbox oil in a timely manner. On Almera Classic with manual transmission - every 60 thousand km, with variator - 40 thousand km.
If you frequently drive off-road or in high humidity conditions, it is recommended every 30 thousand km remove the boots and check the condition of the lubricant. This will allow you to detect the onset of corrosion or wear of the bearings in time.
What happens if you drive with a damaged CV joint?
Long driving with a crunchy CV joint leads to:
1. Destruction of the separator and scattering of balls inside the hinge.
2. Drive jamming on the move, which is especially dangerous at high speed.
3. Damage to the axle shaft - in this case, the entire drive will need to be replaced (from 15,000 rub.).
4. Worn gearbox seal and metal shavings getting into the box (critical for the variator).
The cost of replacing a CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic in the service
The cost of replacing a CV joint in a car service depends on the type of joint and region. Average prices for Almera Classic (2023):
| Type of work | Cost, rub. | Opening hours |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement of outer CV joint (one side) | 2 500–3 500 | 1–1.5 hours |
| Replacing the inner CV joint | 3 500–4 500 | 2–2.5 hours |
| Replacing the boot (without removing the CV joint) | 1 500–2 000 | 30–40 minutes |
| Replacing the gearbox oil seal (when removing the drive) | 1 000–1 500 | 20–30 minutes |
If replacement is required both sides, many services offer a discount up to 10–15%. However, it is more economical to change CV joints in pairs, especially if the car’s mileage exceeds 120 thousand km.
When choosing a service, pay attention to:
- 🔧 Availability specialized tool for removing drives (for example, circlip remover).
- 📋 Work guarantee (minimum 6 months).
- 🚗 Experience with Nissan - on Almera Classic There are nuances with fastening the ball joints.
Replacing a CV joint yourself costs 2–3 times less than service, but requires care. The main thing is not to skimp on lubricant and clamps for boots!
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about CV joints on Nissan Almera Classic
Is it possible to drive if the CV joint is crunching?
Short term - yes, but no more 1–2 weeks. Driving for a long time with a damaged CV joint leads to its complete destruction and can damage the axle shaft or gearbox. On Almera Classic with a variator this is especially dangerous!
Which CV joint breaks more often: internal or external?
On Nissan Almera Classic in 80% of cases fails outer CV joint (especially the right one). The internal one lasts longer, but replacing it is more difficult and requires removing the drive from the box.
Is it necessary to change the gearbox oil after replacing the CV joint?
If replaced internal CV joint, the oil in the manual transmission or variator partially leaks. Recommended top up or replace completely (especially for the variator JF011E, where required NS-2 or NS-3).
Is it possible to restore the CV joint or just replace it?
Theoretically, it is possible to replace the balls or the separator, but in practice this is not cost-effective. The cost of restoration is comparable to the price of a new CV joint, but the reliability will be lower. The exception is rare cases when only the boot is damaged, but the hinge itself is in good condition.
What tools are needed for DIY replacement?
Minimum set:
- Heads on
17 mm,19 mm,22 mmAnd30 mm(for the hub nut). - Hammer, pry bar, circlip remover.
- Jack, stops, wrench for boot clamps.
- Lubrication Molykote BR2 Plus or similar.