Nissan Murano Z51 - a crossover with a solid service life, but even it is not immune from wear of rubber-metal suspension parts. The silent blocks of the front levers here are one of the most vulnerable places, especially after 100–120 thousand km. Their malfunction is manifested not only by knocks and vibrations, but also by deterioration in handling, which is critical for a heavy vehicle with all-wheel drive.

In this article we will look at everything you need to know about silent blocks Murano Z51: from signs of wear to replacement nuances. You will learn which original parts to use, which analogues will not let you down, and why saving on quality here will result in expensive repairs after 20 thousand km. And also - step-by-step instructions with a checklist and warnings about typical mistakes that even experienced craftsmen make.

Signs of wear on silent blocks: when is it time to change them

Silent blocks of the front levers on Murano Z51 They rarely “die” suddenly - they usually make themselves known in advance. The main thing is not to confuse their symptoms with malfunctions of ball joints or stabilizer struts. Here are the key signals:

  • 🔊 Knocking or clicking noises when driving over bumps at low speed (especially noticeable when turning). The sound comes from the front, but is not accompanied by a squeak - this distinguishes silent blocks from worn balls.
  • 🚗 Pulling the car to the side when braking or accelerating. If Murano pulls to the left/right, and the wheel alignment was done recently - the silent blocks are to blame.
  • 🌀 Vibration on the steering wheel when driving on a flat road at a speed of 60–90 km/h. It is often confused with wheel imbalance, but here the vibration is deeper and radiates into the body.
  • 🔧 Visible cracks or tears in the rubber on silent blocks. If, upon inspection through an inspection hole or on a lift, it is clear that the rubber has crumbled or is peeling off from the metal, replacement is needed urgently.

On Murano Z51 with a mileage of over 150 thousand km, wear of silent blocks is often accompanied by play in the levers. You can check this by shaking the lever with a pry bar: if there is a noticeable gap (more than 1–2 mm), the part must be replaced along with the silent block.

⚠️ Attention: If you ignore the wear of silent blocks, this will lead to accelerated destruction of seats in the arms and subframe. On Murano Z51 this is fraught with the need for welding work or replacing the lever assembly, which is 3–4 times more expensive than timely repairs.
📊 How often do you check the condition of your car's suspension?
  • Every 10 thousand km
  • Once a year
  • Only when symptoms appear
  • Never checked

Original articles and analogues: what to put on Murano Z51

On Nissan Murano Z51 (2015–2021) front control arm silent blocks with original part numbers are installed 54501-4M00A (left) and 54500-4M00A (right). These parts are interchangeable with analogues for Nissan Pathfinder R52 And Infiniti QX60 of the same generation. Important: on restyled versions Murano (after 2018) there may be silent blocks with the article number 54501-4M10A — they are identical in size, but have reinforced rubber.

The cost of original silent blocks from Nissan — about 3,500–4,500 rubles. for a couple. However, many owners choose analogues, which are sometimes not inferior in quality, but are 2 times cheaper. The table below shows the tested options:

Brand Article Price per pair, rub. Features
Nissan (original) 54501-4M00A / 54500-4M00A 3 500–4 500 Guaranteed compatibility, resource 100+ thousand km
Febi 36920 2 200–2 500 The quality is close to the original, often installed in official services
Lemforder 36920 01 2 800–3 200 Reinforced rubber, suitable for aggressive driving
Sasic 2005450 1 500–1 800 Budget option, resource up to 60–80 thousand km
Moog NK-800010 3 000–3 500 Premium segment, rubber with graphite lubricant

When choosing analogues, pay attention to bushing material: on Murano Z51 it is better to install silent blocks with an aluminum or steel bushing (for example, Lemforder or Moog). Cheap parts with plastic bushings quickly break, especially when driving on dirt roads or in Russian winter conditions.

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If you buy non-original silent blocks, be sure to check them with the sample according to internal diameter and length. On Murano Z51 There are fakes with a narrowed bushing that do not fit tightly on the lever.

Tools and preparation: what you need for replacement

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers with Murano Z51 - a task of medium complexity. It’s difficult to cope without experience and special tools, but two options are possible:

  1. Removing the lever assembly (simpler, but requires alignment after installation).
  2. Pressing out/pressing in place (longer, but does not violate the suspension geometry).

To work you will need:

  • 🔧 Silent block remover (For example, KUKKO 21-1 or equivalent). Without it, knocking out old parts with a hammer is a sure way to damage the lever.
  • 🔨 Hydraulic press (if you are pressing in place) or a vice with mandrels.
  • 🔩 Socket heads at 17, 19 and 22 mm (for unscrewing the arms and stabilizer).
  • 🛠️ WD-40 or liquid key - bolts on Murano often get stuck.
  • 📏 Vernier caliper to check the seats after pressing out.

Before starting work, be sure to:

  1. Place the car on a level surface and fix the rear wheels stops.
  2. Loosen the hub nuts and arm mounting bolts before jacking (it’s more difficult to unscrew them while hanging).
  3. Remove the crankcase protection (if equipped) to access the subframe.

Purchase new silent blocks and lubricant (for example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste)|

Check the presence of the puller and mandrels for pressing |

Clean threaded connections from dirt and treat with WD-40|

Prepare the jack and safety stands|

Take a photo of the location of the bolts and levers (useful during assembly) -->

⚠️ Attention: On Murano Z51 with all-wheel drive it's impossible hang the front axle without disconnecting the drive shafts. This will lead to damage to the CV joints. It is better to work on a lift or use lever supports, and not under the body.

Step-by-step replacement: removing the lever vs. pressing on site

Let's consider both replacement methods, as each has pros and cons.

Method 1: Removing the Lever Assembly (Recommended for Beginners)

  1. Unscrew hub nut (force will be required - use a lever on the wrench).
  2. Remove wheel and unscrew the bolts securing the lever to the subframe (2 pcs.) and the stabilizer link (1 pc.).
  3. Output lever from its seat by gently pulling it down. A mount may be required.
  4. Clamp the lever in a vise and use a puller to press out the old silent block.
  5. Clean the seat rust and apply a thin layer of copper grease.
  6. Press in a new silent block, making sure that it sits evenly, without distortions.
  7. Reinstall the lever and tighten the bolts firmly 100–120 Nm.

Method 2: Pressing out without removing the lever (for experienced ones)

This method is more complicated, but saves time on disassembly. You will need:

  1. Jack up the car and lock the lever using ties or wire so that it does not sag.
  2. With special mandrel (or a homemade one from a pipe) knock out the old silent block inside the lever.
  3. Apply grease to the new silent block and press it in with a press, controlling the depth of immersion.
  4. Check alignment silent block relative to the lever - a misalignment of more than 1–2 mm is unacceptable.

After replacement necessarily check the wheel alignment angles. Even if the lever was not removed, the new silent block may shift the geometry slightly.

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On Murano Z51 with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, it is recommended to change silent blocks along with levers — the seats are often deformed, and new parts will not last long.

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when working with silent blocks Murano Z51. Here are the most common:

  • 🔧 Using a hammer to knock out old silent blocks. This leads to deformation of the lever and cracks in the metal. Solution: hydraulic puller only!
  • 🧴 Lack of lubrication during pressing. Dry rubber will crack quickly. Solution: use LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste or analogues.
  • 🔩 Undertightening or overtightening of bolts. On Murano the tightening torque should be 100–120 Nm. Solution: use a torque wrench.
  • 🌀 Ignoring wheel alignment checks after replacement. Even if the lever was not removed, the new silent block may change the angles.
  • 🔥 Operation without lever locking when pressed out on site. This leads to its sagging and damage to the CV joint boots.

Another common problem is purchase of silent blocks without taking into account the year of manufacture. On Murano Z51 before 2018 and after restyling, the diameters of the bushings may differ. Always check the article numbers with VIN- car number.

What happens if you press the silent block in incorrectly?

If the silent block is installed skewed, this will lead to:

1) Accelerated wear of rubber (lifetime will be reduced by 3–5 times).

2) Vibrations on the steering wheel due to uneven load distribution.

3) There is a risk of the bushing being torn out of the lever during sudden braking or falling into a hole.

4) The need for repeated repairs after 10–15 thousand km.

Service life and how to extend the life of silent blocks

On Nissan Murano Z51 The original silent blocks of the front control arms last on average 100–150 thousand km. However, this indicator strongly depends on operating conditions:

  • 🛣️ Road quality: when driving on dirt roads or potholes, the service life is reduced to 60–80 thousand km.
  • ❄️ Climate: in regions with sharp temperature changes (for example, Siberia), rubber hardens and cracks faster.
  • 🚘 Driving style: Aggressive acceleration and braking increase the load on the silent blocks.
  • 🧴 Care: Lack of lubrication during replacement or oil getting on the rubber reduces the service life by 2 times.

To extend the life of silent blocks:

  1. Regularly (every 10 thousand km) check their condition on the inspection hole.
  2. Avoid long off-road driving at high speed.
  3. When replacing, use copper or graphite grease to protect rubber from drying out.
  4. Follow condition of CV joint boots — leaking lubricant destroys the rubber of silent blocks.

If you live in a region with salt reagents, treat once a year metal parts of levers with anticorrosive protection (for example, Dinitrol). This will prevent corrosion of the seats.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about silent blocks Murano Z51

Is it possible to drive with worn silent blocks?

Technically it is possible, but it is dangerous. Worn silent blocks impair handling, especially at high speed, and can lead to lever separation during a sharp maneuver. In addition, this accelerates the wear of tires and other suspension components.

How long does it take to replace?

The service takes 2–3 hours (if you change both levers). If you replace it yourself without experience, it will take 4–6 hours, especially if the bolts are stuck. The longest stage is pressing out the old silent blocks.

Do I need to replace silent blocks in pairs?

Yes, even if only one is worn out. On Murano Z51 uneven rigidity of silent blocks leads to pulling the car to the side and accelerated wear of the second. An exception is if the second unit was replaced recently (less than 20 thousand km ago).

Is it possible to restore silent blocks?

No. Rubber-metal silent blocks cannot be repaired. There are “handicraft” methods using polyurethane pouring, but they are unreliable and dangerous - such a block can fall apart while moving.

Which brand of silent blocks is the most reliable?

According to owner reviews Murano Z51, the best options:

  • Original (Nissan) — guaranteed compatibility, resource 100+ thousand km.
  • Lemforder — reinforced rubber, suitable for difficult conditions.
  • Febi — optimal price/quality ratio.

Cheap brands (Sasic, TRW in the budget line) often last no more than 40–50 thousand km.