Unwelding the wheels Nissan Almera Classic - one of the most popular types of tuning among owners of this car. It allows you not only to improve the appearance of the car, but also to increase stability on the road due to the extended wheelbase. However, doing this process incorrectly can lead to serious problems, from premature bearing wear to loss of controllability at high speeds.

In this article we will analyze all the nuances of welding on Almera Classic (including models B10 And N16), we will tell you about the permissible parameters, the selection of wheels and tires, and also give step-by-step instructions taking into account the characteristics of the suspension of this car. We will pay special attention security - because even a minimal error in wheel geometry can result in an accident.

What is welding and why is it needed on Nissan Almera Classic

Unwelding (or wheel alignment with changing wheelbase width) is a set of works to increase the vehicle track width by installing discs with offset (ET) smaller than standard, or the use of spacers. On Nissan Almera Classic This is relevant for several reasons:

  • 🔧 Improved stability: the widened track reduces roll in corners, which is especially noticeable at speeds above 100 km/h.
  • 🚗 Aggressive appearance: wheels protruding beyond the arches give the car a sporty character (popular in style stance or JDM).
  • 🔄 Spring compensation: if the car is lowered, welding helps to avoid friction between the tires and the fender liners.

However, this tuning also has a downside. For example, on a Nissan Almera Classic with front-wheel drive, excessive welding of the front axle increases the load on the CV joints, reducing their service life by 30-40%. In addition, wheels that exceed the dimensions can cling to body elements when the steering wheel is turned completely.

📊 Which style of welding is closer to you?
  • Moderate (wheels flush with arches)
  • Aggressive (wheels protrude beyond 2-3 cm)
  • Extreme (stance, wheels behind the arches)
  • I don't plan to unweld

Acceptable welding parameters for Almera Classic: compatibility table

Before you begin, you need to understand what wheel and tire parameters are suitable for your model. Nissan Almera Classic (especially in the back N16) has track width restrictions that cannot be exceeded without modification to the suspension. Below is a table with safe values:

Parameter Standard (standard) Acceptable welding (without modifications) Maximum (with suspension risk)
Disc offset (ET) 40–45 mm 35–38 mm 25–30 mm (requires rolling out arches)
Disc width (J) 6.0–6.5J 7.0–7.5J 8.0J (possible friction on the struts)
Tire width 185/65 R15 195/50 R16 or 205/45 R17 215/40 R17 (only with rolling arches)
Max. wheel arch protrusion 0 mm up to 15 mm 20–30 mm (high risk of body damage)

It is important to consider that Almera Classic with engine 1.6 (QG16DE) The rear suspension is less resistant to loads than the front. Therefore, it is better to limit the welding of the rear axle to the offset ET38to avoid beam deformation.

⚠️ Attention: If you plan to install wider rims 7.5J, be sure to check the clearance between the wheel and the shock absorber strut when turning the steering wheel fully. On Almera Classic with hydraulic booster this is critical - if friction occurs, the tire can damage the CV joint boot.

Step-by-step instructions: how to make welding yourself

If you decide to do the welding yourself, follow this algorithm. Remember: mistakes at the preparation stage can lead to irreversible damage to wheel bearings or deformation of drive shafts.

Check current disk offset (ET) and width

Buy spacers (if needed) with centering rings

Select tires taking into account the increased rim width

Check the condition of CV joints and bearings

Prepare tools: torque wrench, wheel puller, jack-->

Step 1: Removing old drives

Raise the car on a jack and remove the wheels. Pay attention to the condition of the hubs - if there is play, welding cannot be done until the fault is eliminated. On Almera Classic The rear bearings often wear out, so they need to be checked first.

Step 2: Installing spacers (if used)

Spacers must be aluminum (steel ones create additional load on the hub). Secure them to the hub using the tightening torque 90–110 Nm. Do not use spacers thicker than 20 mm - this is critical for Almera Classic due to short CV joints.

Step 3: Installation of new disks

Install the discs with the new offset, making sure that they seat on the centering ring. Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern to avoid distortion. After installation, check whether the wheel catches on the suspension elements when turning the steering wheel.

Step 4: Wheel alignment adjustment

After welding, be sure to visit the wheel alignment stand. On Nissan Almera Classic changing the disc offset affects the wheel alignment angles, so without adjustment the car will pull to the side. Optimal values after welding:

  • Camber: -0.5° ± 0.2° (front axle), -1.0° ± 0.2° (rear axle)
  • Toe: 0 ± 2 mm (before), 1 ± 2 mm (back)

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If after welding there is a hum when driving, immediately check the tightness of the hub nuts - on Almera Classic they tend to unscrew themselves due to vibrations.

Top 5 mistakes when welding on Almera Classic and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes, which then cost a lot of money. Here are the most common mistakes and ways to prevent them:

  1. Ignoring Centering Rings. Without them, the disc does not sit exactly on the hub, which leads to the steering wheel wobbling. On Almera Classic this is especially critical due to the vibration-sensitive steering rack.
  2. Installing tires that are too wide. Wider tires 205 mm Without rolling, the arches will rub against the fender liners when the car is fully loaded.
  3. Using cheap spacers. Chinese spacers often cannot withstand the load and become deformed, which leads to wheel play.
  4. Lack of balancing. After welding, be sure to balance the wheels - the imbalance is Almera Classic appears already at a speed of 80 km/h.
  5. Neglecting to check CV joints. If the CV joints are worn out, welding will speed up their failure. Before tuning, check the boots for cracks.
⚠️ Attention: If after welding the indicator on the dashboard lights up ABS, this may mean that the wheel sensors are too far from the rotor. The solution is to install spacers with magnetic rings.

How to choose wheels and tires for welding: expert recommendations

Selecting wheels and tires is the most important step. On Nissan Almera Classic It is better to give preference to light alloy wheels with low weight, so as not to overload the suspension. Here are the tested combinations:

  • 🔹 For moderate boiling: disks 7J ET38 + tires 195/50 R16 (For example, Kosei K1 or Enkei PF05).
  • 🔹 For an aggressive style: disks 7.5J ET35 + tires 205/45 R17 (For example, Work Emotion CR Kiwami).
  • 🔹 For winter: disks 6.5J ET40 + tires 185/60 R15 (For example, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3).

When choosing tires, pay attention to the load index. For Almera Classic it should be no lower 88T (maximum load 560 kg per wheel). Also avoid high-profile tires - they worsen handling on a loose wheelbase.

What happens if you put ET20 wheels on Almera Classic?

When ET20 is offset, the wheel will protrude beyond the arch by 25–30 mm, which will lead to:

- Friction of the tire against the fender liner when turning.

- Accelerated wear of wheel bearings (load increases by 40%).

- Risk of damage to the CV joint when turning the steering wheel completely.

- Possible problems with passing technical inspection (wheels for body dimensions).

Rolling out arches: when is it necessary and how to do it right

If you are planning extreme unwelding (the wheels protrude beyond the arches by more than 20 mm), you cannot do without rolling out. On Nissan Almera Classic this is especially true for the rear arches, where there is less space than in the front.

For rolling you will need:

  • 🔨 Roller roller (or hammer with a wooden nozzle).
  • 🔥 Gas burner for heating metal (facilitates deformation).
  • 🖌️ Anti-corrosion treatment after rolling.

Process:

  1. Remove the fender liners and arch protection.
  2. Heat the metal of the arch to a temperature of ~200°C (do not overheat so as not to damage the paintwork!).
  3. Carefully roll out the edge of the arch with a roller, periodically checking the gap with a tire.
  4. After rolling, treat the bare metal with anti-corrosion agent and paint.

⚠️ Attention: Rolling out the front arches Almera Classic requires special care - headlight wiring harnesses pass nearby. Damaged insulation may result in a short circuit.
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Rolling out the arches is an irreversible modification to the body. If you are planning to sell your car, keep in mind that this could reduce its value by 10-15%.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about dewelding on Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to do welding only on the front axle?

Technically yes, but it will upset the car's balance. Nissan Almera Classic with only the front axle welded, it will be prone to skidding on wet roads. It is recommended to weld both axles symmetrically, even if the rear welding is minimal (for example, ET40 → ET38).

How does welding affect fuel consumption?

Increasing the track width and installing wider tires increases rolling resistance, which can increase consumption by 0.3–0.7 l/100 km. On Almera Classic 1.6 this is especially noticeable during city driving. It is also worth considering that low-profile tires make the suspension stiffer, which can affect comfort.

Do wheel bearings need to be replaced after welding?

Not required, but it is recommended to check their condition. If the bearings already have play or are worn out by more than 50%, it is better to replace them to unwelding. On Almera Classic after increasing the overhang, the load on the bearings increases by 20–30%, so weak units will quickly fail.

Which wheels are better: cast or forged?

For unwelding on Almera Classic forged wheels are preferable - they are lighter and stronger, which is important for increased loads on the suspension. However, they are more expensive than cast ones. A good compromise is alloy wheels from trusted brands (BBS, OZ Racing, Advanti). Avoid cheap replicas - they are often unbalanced and have inaccurate geometry.

Is it possible to drive with welding in winter?

It is possible, but you need to take into account a few nuances:

  • Narrow winter tires (185/65 R15) on wide disks (7J) will stretch, which impairs grip.
  • Boiled wheels splash more snow on the windows and headlights, impairing your visibility.
  • At low temperatures, the metal of the spacers can become brittle - avoid sharp impacts (for example, on curbs).

The best option for winter is wheels 6.5J ET40 with tires 195/60 R15.