Nissan Almera Classic (also known as Nissan Almera N16 in some regions) is a reliable car, but even it is not immune to problems with the ignition system. One of the key elements influencing stable engine operation is Crankshaft position sensor (CPS). Its malfunction can lead to a complete stop of the engine or uneven idling.

In this article you will find exact location of DPKV on Almera Classic with photos and diagrams, learn how to check it with a multimeter, and also receive step-by-step instructions for replacement. We will analyze typical symptoms of a malfunction, which are often confused with problems with spark plugs or ignition coils, and explain why this sensor is so important for the correct operation of the ECU.

Why do you need a crankshaft sensor and how does it work?

Crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) is the only sensor in the engine management system, without which Nissan Almera Classic won't start at all. It transmits information to the electronic control unit (ECU) about:

  • 🔄 Steering angle crankshaft - determines the moment of spark supply and fuel injection.
  • Rotational speed — affects the calculation of the injector opening time.
  • 📊 Piston position — synchronizes the operation of the cylinders.

On Almera Classic with engines QG15DE (1.5 l) and QG18DE (1.8 l) used induction DPKV. Its operating principle is based on the generation of pulses during the passage of metal teeth master disk (aka "sync disk") past the magnetic core of the sensor. The absence of one or two teeth on the disc serves reference mark for the ECU - this is how the unit understands when the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC.

If the DPKV fails or transmits incorrect data, the ECU loses its “binding” to the crankshaft position. This leads to:

  • 🚗 Engine start failure (the starter turns, but there is no spark).
  • 🔥 Detonation due to incorrect ignition timing.
  • ⚠️ Floating revolutions at idle speed.
⚠️ Attention: On Almera Classic With an automatic transmission, a faulty DPKV can block gear shifting or cause jerks during acceleration. This is due to the fact that the transmission ECU also uses the signal from the sensor to adjust the operation of the torque converter.

Where is the crankshaft sensor located on Nissan Almera Classic: photo and diagram

On Nissan Almera Classic (including restyled versions) DPKV is located on the cylinder block on the flywheel side, next to the gearbox. Exact location:

  • 📍 Under the thermostat (when viewed from the radiator side).
  • 🔧 At a height of 2–3 cm from the pallet — when viewed from below, it can be seen without removing the protection.
  • 🔌 Near the knock sensor connector (but do not confuse them - DPKV has a longer wire!).

Visually, the sensor is a cylindrical body with a diameter of ~20 mm with a plastic connector and one mounting bolt (usually at "10"). It is connected to a wiring harness that runs along the cylinder block. The photo below shows the location on the engine QG18DE (similar for QG15DE):

Search guidelines:

  1. Remove air filter - this will open access to the top of the block.
  2. Look down, between the block and the box - look for black cylinder with wire, sticking out of the aluminum body.
  3. If viewing from above is difficult, crawl under the car (driver's side) and shine a flashlight above the pallet.
Engine DPKV location Fastening Wire length(cm)
QG15DE (1.5 l) Cylinder block, under thermostat Bolt M6 (key 10) ~40–45
QG18DE (1.8 l) Cylinder block, next to flywheel Bolt M6 (key 10) ~45–50
GA16DE (1.6 l, rare) Cylinder block, timing side Bolt M6 (key 10) ~35–40

Important! On some versions Almera Classic (especially after 2006) DPKV can be covered metal screen to protect against dirt. It must be carefully bent to gain access to the mounting bolt.

📊 Have you already looked for DPKV on your Almera Classic?
  • Yes, I found it without any problems
  • Yes, but I couldn't find it
  • No, I'm just reading the instructions
  • I don't know where to look

Signs of a faulty crankshaft sensor

Symptoms of DPKV failure on Nissan Almera Classic often coincide with malfunctions of other systems (for example, ignition coils or fuel pump). However there is unique "markers", which directly point to the sensor:

  • 🚫 Engine won't start (the starter turns, but there is no spark or injection).
  • 🔄 "Check Engine" lights up and goes out when driving on uneven roads (vibrations disrupt contact).
  • Loss of traction at high speeds (The ECU goes into emergency mode).
  • 📉 RPM "jumps" at idle (from 500 to 1500 rpm).
  • 🔥 Detonation during acceleration (ringing metallic knock).

A distinctive feature of a faulty DPKV on Almera Classic: error P0335 ("Crankshaft position sensor circuit") appears in the ECU memory not always. The fact is that the sensor may work intermittently (for example, due to heating or vibration), and the ECU does not always detect a failure. Therefore, it is better to carry out diagnostics in dynamics.

⚠️ Attention: If on your Almera Classic light up at the same time Check Engine And ESP (or ABS), this may indicate a break in the DPKV wire. On models with QG18DE The harness runs next to the exhaust manifold and often rubs against the bracket.

How can I confirm the problem?

  1. Check winding resistance sensor (norm: 550–750 Ohm).
  2. Measure connector voltage when cranking with the starter (should be ~0.3–1.5 V).
  3. View oscillogram signal (a diagnostic scanner is needed).
What does the oscillogram of a working DPKV look like?

On a working sensor, the graph should have even “teeth” with a clear gap (reference mark). If the signal is intermittent or the amplitude is below 0.3 V, the sensor is faulty.

How to check the crankshaft sensor on a Nissan Almera Classic

Checking DPKV does not require complex equipment - just enough multimeter and screwdrivers. Below is a step-by-step instruction for engines QG15DE/QG18DE.

Step 1: Removing the sensor

  1. Disable negative battery terminal (key for 10).
  2. Disconnect sensor connector (press the plastic lock).
  3. Unscrew fastening bolt (key 10) and remove the sensor.

Step 2: Check Resistance

Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (2000 Ohms) and connect the probes to the sensor terminals. Normal values:

  • 🔹 QG15DE: 550–650 Ohm.
  • 🔹 QG18DE: 600–750 Ohm.

If resistance below 500 ohms or above 900 Ohm - the sensor is faulty. Also check isolation: Touch one probe to the sensor body and the other to any terminal. Resistance should tend to infinity.

Step 3: Inductance Test (Optional)

For this you need LC meter. Normal inductance DPKV on Almera Classic200–400 mH. If the value is below 150 mH, the sensor must be replaced.

Step 4: Visual Inspection

Please note:

  • 🔍 Cracks on the body (especially near the connector).
  • 🧲 Magnetic core - if it is covered with metal shavings, the sensor is clogged.
  • 🔌 Contact status in the connector (oxidation or burning).

Clean the seat from dirt|Check the gap between the sensor and the drive disk (0.5–1.5 mm)|Apply dielectric grease to the connector|Tighten the fastening bolt with a force of 8–10 Nm-->

Step-by-step replacement of the crankshaft sensor

Replacing DPKV with Nissan Almera Classic takes no more than 20 minutes. You will need:

  • 🔧 10mm wrench (or socket with extension).
  • 🧴Dielectric grease (e.g. Liqui Moly Electronic-Spray).
  • 🧹 Rags and contact cleaner (WD-40).

Sequence of actions:

  1. Disable battery (remove the negative terminal).
  2. Disconnect sensor connectorby pressing the latch.
  3. Unscrew fastening bolt and remove the old sensor.
  4. Clear seat from oil and dirt (use WD-40 and rags).
  5. Install new sensor, making sure he sat down all the way.
  6. Tighten the bolt firmly 8–10 Nm (do not overtighten!).
  7. Connect the connector and return the terminal to the battery.

Important details:

  • 🔹 The gap between the sensor and master disk must be 0.5–1.5 mm. If it is larger, place a washer.
  • 🔹 Do not use sealant during installation, it may fall on the working surface of the sensor.
  • 🔹 After replacement, reset the ECU errors (for example, by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or using a scanner).
⚠️ Attention: On Almera Classic with engine QG18DE when replacing DPKV it may be necessary throttle valve relearning. To do this, after starting the engine, let it idle for 3-5 minutes, then turn it off and start it again.
💡

If after replacing the DPKV the engine still does not start, check wire integrity from the sensor to the ECU. Often chafing occurs near the exhaust manifold - inspect the harness for melting.

Common mistakes when diagnosing and replacing

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when working with DPKV. Here are the most common:

  1. DPKV is confused with a knock sensor. They are located nearby, but the knock sensor has two-pin connector and is attached to the block closer to the head.
  2. Don't check the gap between the sensor and the disk. If it exceeds 1.5mm, the signal will be weak.
  3. Use non-original sensors. Cheap analogues (for example, from Febi or Meat & Doria) often have the wrong resistance.
  4. ECU errors do not reset after replacement. This may result in the engine continuing to operate in limp mode.

How to avoid problems?

  • 🔹 Buy sensors with article number 23731-4M000 (original Nissan) or DENSO 550-0103.
  • 🔹 Always clean master disk from metal shavings (they may interfere with signal reading).
  • 🔹 Check wiring for a short circuit (especially if the sensor has already been changed before).
💡

If after replacing the DPKV the engine starts but is unstable, the problem may lie in master disk (for example, a tooth is broken or the geometry is broken).

Cost of work and spare parts

Crankshaft sensor and replacement prices vary by region and service. Below is the current table for Nissan Almera Classic (as of 2026):

Spare part/service Price (original) Price (analog) Cost of work (service)
Crankshaft sensor (Nissan) 2 500–3 200 ₽ 800–1 500 ₽
Crankshaft sensor (DENSO) 1 200–1 800 ₽
Replacing DPKV 500–1 200 ₽
Diagnostics (scanner) 800–1 500 ₽

Saving tips:

  • 💰 Buy the sensor in trusted stores (for example, Exist.ru or Autodoc) - there is less risk of running into a fake.
  • 🔧 If you have a multimeter, you can carry out the diagnostics yourself (saving ~1,000 ₽).
  • 🚗 It’s easy to replace the DPKV yourself - it will save up to 1,200 ₽.

Warning: Do not buy "no-name" sensors at a price below 600 ₽. They often have inadequate resistance, resulting in false signals and repeated breakdowns.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about DPKV on Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to drive with a faulty crankshaft sensor?

No. If the DPKV is completely out of order, the engine won't start. If the sensor operates intermittently, the ECU will put the engine into emergency mode: loss of power, jerking and increased fuel consumption. Prolonged driving in this mode can damage the catalyst.

Which crankshaft sensor is suitable for Almera Classic?

Original article - 23731-4M000 (suitable for QG15DE And QG18DE). Analogues:

  • DENSO 550-0103;
  • BOSCH 0 261 210 115;
  • Blue Print ADS500103.

Before purchasing, check the resistance of the sensor (should be 550–750 ohms).

What happens if the DPKV is installed incorrectly?

If the sensor is installed with incorrect clearance (more than 1.5mm), the ECU will not receive a stable signal. This will result in:

  • Difficulty starting the engine;
  • Floating revolutions;
  • Error P0335 in the ECU memory.

Also possible mechanical contact sensor with the master disk, which will lead to its destruction.

Is it possible to clean the crankshaft sensor?

Yes, but only outer part. Use WD-40 and a soft brush. Do not disassemble the sensor - it is filled with compound, and attempting to open it will lead to breakage. If metal shavings have accumulated on the magnetic core, the sensor must be replaced.

Why does the engine still not start after replacing the DPKV?

Possible reasons:

  1. Defective master disk (broken tooth or broken geometry).
  2. Open or short circuit in wiring from the sensor to the ECU.
  3. Defective ECU (rare, but possible).
  4. New sensor defective (check resistance).

Check availability impulse on the ECU connector when cranking with the starter (should be ~0.3–1.5 V).