Boot of the inner left CV joint <em>Nissan Almera G15</em>: articles, selection and replacement

Inner left CV boot on Nissan Almera G15 - a detail that is often left unattended until it starts to “crunch” or damages the entire drive. This rubber boot protects the constant velocity joint (CV joint) from dirt, moisture and mechanical damage, extending the life of the transmission by tens of thousands of kilometers. However, over time, the rubber loses its elasticity, cracks or tears - and then urgent replacement is required.

In this article we will look at how to choose the right boot according to article number (original and analogues), what signs indicate its wear, and how to replace the part yourself - taking into account the nuances of the design Almera G15. You will also find current prices, brand comparisons and tips for extending the life of your new boot.

Original article and analogues: what to choose for Nissan Almera G15?

Original left inner CV joint boot for Almera G15 (2012–2019) has an article number 39310-4M000. This part is suitable for vehicles with engines HR16DE (1.6 l) and K4M (1.6 l, Renault), as well as for modifications with automatic transmission and manual transmission. However, the original is from Nissan is expensive - from 1,800 to 2,500 rubles, so many owners choose high-quality analogues.

Proven alternatives include:

• 🔹 GKN (Loebro) - article number ADG00229 (price ~1,200 rub.). The brand is known for high quality rubber and precise fit.
• 🔹 SKF - article number VKJA 6611 (price ~1,500 rub.). Suitable for severe operating conditions.
• 🔹 Febi - article number 22321 (price ~900 rub.). Budget option with good reviews.
• 🔹 Sasic - article number 2005020 (price ~700 rub.). Optimal for economical replacement.

When choosing an analogue, pay attention to boot material: The best options are made from heat resistant rubber or polyurethane, which do not tan in the cold and do not melt in the summer. Also check the package contents - the set should include clamps (usually 2 pcs.) and CV joint lubricant (For example, Molykote BR2 Plus).

Signs of malfunction: when is it time to change the boot?

The boot of the inner CV joint wears out gradually, and the first symptoms often go unnoticed. However, ignoring the problem leads to dirt getting into the joint, its accelerated wear and, ultimately, to drive jamming or broken axle shaft. Look out for the following signs:

• 🚗 Crunch when turning (especially to the left) or starting off. The sound increases under load (for example, when driving uphill).
• 💨 Whistling or squeaking from the left wheel at a speed of 40–60 km/h. Often confused with wheel bearing wear.
• 🩹 Traces of grease on the inside of the wheel or suspension arm. This means that the boot is already torn.
• 🔧 Vibration on the steering wheel during acceleration, which disappears after releasing the gas. May indicate damage to the CV joint due to depressurization.

To accurately diagnose the problem, inspect the boot visually. To do this:

1. Turn the steering wheel to the left all the way.
2. Look behind the wheel from the arch side - the inner boot is visible next to the gearbox.
3. Check for cracks, tears or traces of grease.

If you ignore the damage to the boot, after 500–1,000 km of driving on dirty roads, the CV joint will fail. The cost of a new hinge is from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles, plus replacement work. For comparison: replacing a boot costs 1,500–3,000 rubles (including labor).

Comparison of the original and analogues: which is better in terms of price and quality?

To help you choose the best option, we have compiled a table comparing the original boot and popular analogues for Nissan Almera G15:

Brand	Article	Price, rub.	Material	Equipment	Service life, thousand km
Nissan (original)	39310-4M000	1 800–2 500	Heat resistant rubber	Boot + clamps	80–100
GKN (Loebro)	ADG00229	1 100–1 300	Polyurethane	Boot + clamps + lubricant	70–90
SKF	VKJA 6611	1 400–1 600	Reinforced rubber	Boot + clamps	60–80
Febi	22321	800–1 000	Standard tires	Boot + clamps	50–70
Sasic	2005020	600–800	Medium hard rubber	Boot only	40–60

Important: polyurethane boots (for example, GKN) last longer than rubber ones, but cost 20–30% more. If you drive off-road or in conditions of severe temperature changes, it is better to overpay for polyurethane.

When choosing, also consider:

• 🔧 Lubricant included. If you don’t have it, you’ll have to buy it separately (~300–500 rubles).
• 📦 Clamp quality. Cheap metal bands often break when tightened; it is better to choose sets with plastic or spring clamps.
• 🏷️ Manufacturer's warranty. From official dealers Nissan original parts have a warranty of up to 2 years.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the inner left CV joint boot

Replace the inner CV joint boot with Almera G15 you can do it yourself if you have it jack, set of keys And CV joint puller (or mount). On average, the work takes 2–3 hours. Here are the detailed instructions:

Drain the oil from the box (if required)|Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery|Jack up and remove the left front wheel|Clean the drive shaft from dirt-->

Step 1: Removing the drive shaft

1. Remove the engine protection (if equipped) and unscrew the hub nut with a wrench 30 (after loosening it while the car is standing).
2. Disconnect the ball joint from the suspension arm (key on 17).
3. Press the CV joint out of the hub using a puller or gently tap it with a hammer through a wooden spacer.
4. Pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox by prying it up with a pry bar.

Step 2. Disassembling and replacing the boot

1. Remove the old clamps from the boot (you can cut them off with pliers).
2. Slide the boot along the shaft and clean the CV joint from old grease (use kerosene or a special cleaner).
3. Check the hinge for play or chips. If they are, replace the entire CV joint.
4. Put on a new boot, after lubricating the CV joint Molykote BR2 Plus (or equivalent).
5. Secure the boot with clamps, making sure it is not twisted.

Step 3. Assembly and testing

1. Reinstall the drive shaft into the transmission (the latch should click into place).
2. Secure the ball joint and tighten the hub nut to torque 220–250 Nm.
3. Install the wheel and lower the car. Drive 10–15 km and check for lubricant leaks.

What to do if the CV joint does not come out of the box?

If the drive shaft is “jammed” in the gearbox, do not pull it by force - this may damage the seal. Try:

1. Rotate the shaft around the axis while pulling towards you.

2. Use WD-40 or a penetrating agent to reduce corrosion.

3. Carefully pry off the inner ring of the CV joint with a pry bar, resting against the gearbox housing through a wooden block.

⚠️ Attention! Do not use a hammer to knock the CV joint out of the box - this may deform the seat and lead to oil leakage from the gearbox. If the shaft does not budge, contact service.

Common replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing the CV joint boot, which then result in repeated repairs. Here are the most common of them:

• 🔧 Insufficient tightening of clamps. If the boot is not secured tightly, it will slip when moving, and dirt will again get into the CV joint. Solution: Use a special crimping tool or adjustable tension pliers.
• 🧴 Saving on lubrication. Some apply regular Litol-24 instead of specialized lubricant for CV joints. This leads to accelerated wear of the joint. Solution: Buy a molybdenum-based lubricant (such as Molykote or Castrol LMX).
• 🔄 Twisting the boot. If the cover is installed with a bend, it will quickly crack. Solution: Before fixing the clamps, rotate the shaft by hand so that the boot takes its natural position.
• 🚗 Ignoring check of the gearbox seal. When replacing the drive shaft, the gearbox seal may be damaged, leading to oil leakage. Solution: inspect the oil seal for cracks and replace it if necessary (part no. 38347-4M000).

Another typical problem is Incorrect hub nut tightening torque. If you overtighten it, the hub bearing will fail after 5–10 thousand km. The optimal moment for Almera G15 — 220–250 Nm. Use a torque wrench!

⚠️ Attention! After replacing the boot, avoid sharp starts and turns at maximum angles for the first 100 km. This will help the new lubricant distribute evenly throughout the CV joint.

How much does it cost to replace a boot at a service center?

If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the replacement of the boot to professionals. The cost of work depends on the region and level of service. The average prices in Russia are:

• 🔧 Official dealer Nissan: 3,000–4,500 rub. (including diagnostics).
• 🏢 Specialized car service: 1,500–2,500 rub.
• 👨‍🔧 Garage workshops: 800–1,500 rub. (but the risk of poor quality work is higher).

The price usually includes:

• Removing/installing the drive shaft.
• Replacing the boot and CV joint lubrication.
• Leak check and test drive.

If the CV joint itself needs to be replaced, the price will increase:

• 🔄 Inner CV joint (article 39300-4M000) — 4,000–6,000 rub. + work 2,000–3,000 rub.
• 🔄 Outer CV joint (article 39350-4M000) — 3,500–5,000 rub. + work 1,500–2,500 rub.

You can save money by purchasing the parts yourself. Many services agree to install customer spare parts for a lower fee (minus 20–30% of the cost of the work).

💡

Replacing a boot costs 3–5 times less than repairing a CV joint or drive shaft. Regular inspection of the covers (every 10–15 thousand km) will help avoid costly breakdowns.

How to extend the life of a new boot?

Even the highest quality boot will not last long if you do not follow simple operating rules. Here's what will help extend its life:

• 🚿 Wash the wheel arches in winter after traveling with salt/reagents. Chlorides corrode rubber.
• 🛣️ Avoid deep puddles. A water hammer can tear the boot off its seat.
• 🔧 Check the clamps every 10 thousand km. They may weaken over time.
• 🧴 Use silicone lubricant for rubber parts (eg LIQUI MOLY Silicon-Spray). It prevents cracking.
• 🔄 Control the turning angles. Sharp turns at maximum wheel turn increase the load on the boot.

If you do a lot of off-road driving, consider installing protective plates on anthers (for example, from 4x4 Shop). They cost ~1,000 rubles. per set, but prevent mechanical damage from stones and branches.

It is also useful to treat the anthers once a year rubber conditioner (For example, Sonax Gummi-Pflege). This restores elasticity and protects against UV rays.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about CV joint boots on Nissan Almera G15

❓ Is it possible to drive with a torn boot if the CV joint is not crunchy yet?

No, even short-term driving (500–1,000 km) with a damaged boot leads to dirt getting into the CV joint. Sand and moisture act as an abrasive, erasing the working surfaces of the hinge. If you find a rupture, immediately replace the boot and wash the CV joint.

❓ Which dust cover is better - rubber or polyurethane?

Polyurethane boots (for example, GKN) last longer (up to 100 thousand km), do not tan in the cold and are resistant to oils. Rubber ones are cheaper, but wear out faster (40–60 thousand km). For Almera G15 polyurethane is optimal if the budget allows.

❓ Is it necessary to change the lubricant in the CV joint when replacing the boot?

Yes, definitely! The old lubricant is already contaminated and has lost its properties. Use specialized compounds for CV joints (for example, Molykote BR2 Plus or Castrol Optitemp LTS 2). Regular Litol-24 not suitable - it cannot withstand high loads.

❓ Is it possible to replace the boot without removing the drive shaft?

Technically it is possible, but it is extremely inconvenient and fraught with errors. Without removing the shaft, you will not be able to properly clean the CV joint, check it for wear and distribute the lubricant evenly. It's better to spend an extra 30 minutes on dismantling than to take risks.

❓ Why did a crunch appear after replacing the boot?

Probable reasons:

1. The CV joint was already worn out before replacing the boot (the joint needs to be replaced).
2. Dirt got into the CV joint during repairs (it needs to be washed and re-lubricated).
3. The boot is installed with a twist, which creates tension on the hinge.
4. Poor quality or unsuitable lubricant was used.

If a crunching noise appears immediately after repair, return to the service center for diagnostics.