Nissan Primera paint code: where is it located, how to decipher and select the original enamel

Restoration of paintwork Nissan Primera - a task that every owner faces sooner or later. Whether it's small chips from gravel, scratches from branches or the consequences of an accident, without an exact paint code Finding the perfect shade is almost impossible. Even in the showrooms of official dealers, mistakes happen if the master focuses only on visual comparison.

The problem is complicated by the fact that over 20+ years of production (1990–2007) Primera was produced in dozens of color options - from classic KH3 “Silver metallic” (most popular in Russia) to rare shades like B54 “Dark blue mother of pearl”, which are difficult to find today. In this article, we’ll look at where exactly to look for the paint code on the body, how to interpret it correctly, and what nuances to consider when ordering materials.

Where is the paint code on Nissan Primera?

On all generations Primera (P10, P11, P12) paint code is indicated on the VIN number plate. Its location depends on the year of manufacture and the market of delivery:

• 🚗 P10 (1990–1996): the sign is attached to right body pillar (passenger side), under the hood on engine compartment partition or on threshold of the driver's door.
• 🚗 P11 (1996–2001): most often - on left pillar (driver's side) or on inside of the trunk lid.
• 🚗 P12 (2001–2007): standard place - driver's door threshold (visible when the door is open) or under the hood on the mudguard amplifier.

On the plate itself the paint code is indicated as COLOR or C/Trim, followed by a combination of 2–3 characters (for example, KH3, B13, QM1). Some examples for the European market may use an alternative designation - Paint.

⚠️ Attention: On vehicles built for the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM), the paint code is sometimes duplicated on badge under the rear seat or on inside of the glove compartment. If there is no sign on the counter, check these locations.

If the plate is damaged or the code is unreadable, alternative methods:

• 🔍 Check it out service book — color information is sometimes duplicated there.
• 📄 Order extract from the Nissan database by VIN (for a fee, through a dealer or specialized services like Nissan Global).
• 🎨 Contact color center — they can select the color using a spectrophotometer (accuracy ~95%).

How to decipher a Nissan Primera paint code

Paint codes Nissan consist of letters and numbers, where:

• First character - a series of colors (for example, K - silver metallics, B - blue, Q - black).
• Second character — shade within the series (number or letter).
• Third character (if any) - clarification (for example, M - mother of pearl, H - metallic).

Examples of decoding popular codes for Primera:

Paint code	Color name	Type	Generation
KH3	Super Black	Metallic	P10, P11, P12
QM1	Brilliant Silver	Metallic	P11, P12
B13	Midnight Blue	Metallic	P10, P11
WY0	Blanc White	Glossy	P12
AH3	Red Solid	Single layer	P10

It is important to consider that the same code could be used for different generations, but the composition of the paint has changed. For example, KH3 on Primera P10 (1990–1996) and P12 (2001–2007) are visually identical, but have a different formula due to updates in production technology.

⚠️ Attention: If your code starts with «E» (For example, E50), this means that the color was by special order (limited edition). Such paints are not included in the standard palette and can cost 2–3 times more.

What to do if the code is not found in the database?

If your code is not recognized in directories (for example, old JDM versions), try:

1. Specify the year and market of delivery (Europe/Japan).

2. Check the code for typos ("B" and "8", "Q" and "0" are often confused).

3. Contact Nissan Paint Russia — they have archival data.

Where to order original paint by code

For accurate selection of enamel according to code Nissan Primera We recommend the following sources:

• 🏢 Official Nissan dealers: order paint directly from the manufacturer (Nissan Paint or PPG). The downside is the high price (from RUB 3,000 per 1 liter) and long delivery time (2–4 weeks).
• 🛒 Specialty stores:
  • Autocolor (Russia) - bases Mobihel And Sikkens.
  • Colomix — selection by code with on-site tinting.
  • Nippon Paint - original Japanese materials.
• 🌍 Foreign suppliers:
  • PaintRef (USA) - catalog with codes for JDM models.
  • The nuances of choosing paint for different generations of Primera

    Every generation Primera had its own characteristics of the paint coating:

    Primera P10 (1990–1996)

    Used primarily single-layer enamels (codes AH3, WY0) and simple metallics (KH3, B13). The main problem is pigment burnout: After 20+ years, the original color may vary by 1-2 shades. When selecting, it is recommended:

    • 🔍 Order paint 1-2 shades darker (for example, instead of B13 take B13M - with mother of pearl).
    • 🎨 Use transition varnish to smooth out boundaries.

    Primera P11 (1996–2001)

    Appeared pearlescent paints (QM1, KM2) and more durable metallics. Feature - three-layer coating (base + mother of pearl + varnish). During repair:

    • 🔧 Apply mother of pearl wet on wet (without drying between layers).
    • 🔬 Use anti-silicone wipe before painting - mother of pearl is sensitive to dirt.

    Primera P12 (2001–2007)

    The most “capricious” generation in terms of painting: they used water soluble bases (environmentally friendly, but demanding on technology). Key points:

    • 💧 The paint is diluted distilled water, not a solvent.
    • 🔥 Dry only in infrared camera (during natural drying, cloudiness is possible).
    💡

    For P12, be sure to use the original varnish UC80 - cheap analogues turn yellow after 1-2 years.

    Common mistakes when selecting and painting

    Even with the correct paint code, the results can be disappointing. Here are common mistakes and how to avoid them:

    1. Ignoring the year of manufacture. For example, QM1 for P11 (1999) and P12 (2003) are visually different - the second generation has a cooler shade.
    2. Savings on preparation. Without primers (For example, EP-01 for metallics), the paint will lie unevenly, and after a year it will begin to peel off.
    3. Incorrect paint to hardener ratio. For Nissan the standard is 2:1 (paint:hardener), but for pearlescents 4:1 may be required.
    4. Painting without test coat. Always apply a test coat to cardboard or old piece - Color may vary due to lighting in the box.

    Another common problem is fake paint. There are many counterfeit code cans on the market KH3 or QM1, which after drying give a green or purple tint. Check:

    • 🏷️ Availability of hologram on the can (for the original Nissan Paint).
    • 📦 Serial number on the label (must match the number on the invoice).
    • 🧪 Consistency — the original paint should not delaminate when shaken.
    💡

    If the paint is too thick, do not thin it with a solvent “by eye” - use viscometer (optimal viscosity for Nissan: 18–20 sec according to DIN4).

    Alternative ways to select paint without a code

    If the code is lost or the plate is missing, there are several ways to choose the color:

    1. Spectrophotometer (service cost: 500–1,500 ₽). The device reads the shade from the body and gives a recipe for tinting. Accuracy - 90–95%. Suitable for Primera P11/P12, but may be erroneous on burnt surfaces.
    2. Visual selection by fan. Car paint shops have catalogs RAL or Nissan, where you can compare shades. Disadvantage: depends on lighting and subjective perception.
    3. Photomethod. Take a photo of the part in daylight and send the photo to color center (For example, Nissan Color). They will select the color pixel by pixel.
    4. VIN analysis. Through databases like Tips for painting Primera parts

       To ensure you enjoy the results for many years, follow these recommendations:

       • 🧽 Degreasing: use antisilicone (For example, APP W700), rather than regular white spirit.
       • 🖌️ Application:
         • Metallic - 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 10-15 minutes.
         • Mother of pearl - 1 layer of base + 2 layers of mother of pearl + varnish.
       • 🔥 Drying:
         • At +20°C - 24 hours until complete polymerization.
         • In a chamber at +60°C - 2–3 hours.
       • 🛠️ Polishing: no earlier than 7 days (use paste 3M 06064 for gloss).

       For local repairs (chips, scratches) it is convenient to use repair kits:

       • 🎨 Dr. ColorChip — set with paint, varnish and applicator (suitable for Primera P12).
       • 🖌️ TouchUp Direct — spray cans with a brush (there are codes KH3, QM1).

       ⚠️ Attention: When painting plastic parts (bumper, moldings), be sure to use plasticizer (For example, APP P550-60). Without it, the paint will crack in 1-2 months.

       FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Nissan Primera paint code

       Can I use paint from another generation of Primera if the code is the same?

       Theoretically yes, but recommended to avoid this approach. For example, KH3 for P10 And P12 has a different pigment composition due to changes in production technology. The difference may not be noticeable in daylight, but will appear under artificial lighting or after varnishing.

       If there is no alternative, order sampler (50-100 ml) and apply a test coat to the inside of the trunk lid.

       What should I do if the color is different after painting?

       Reasons for the discrepancy:

       1. Unfaithful varnish code (for metallics you need UC35, for mother of pearl - UC80).
       2. Incorrect application technology (for example, mother of pearl is applied without a “wet” effect).
       3. Paint burned out — compare with the area under the door seal (the original color is there).

       Solution: Polish the part and apply transition varnish with shading.

       Where can I find the paint code for the facelifted Primera P11 (1999–2001)?

       On restyled versions P11 (after 1999) the paint code plate is often moved to the inside of the trunk lid (on the left, next to the castle). Also check:

       • 🔧 Right body pillar (under the rubber seal).
       • 🚗 Under the hood on the mudguard amplifier (next to VIN).

       If there is no sign, try to find the code in service book (Paint Code section).

       Can I spray paint Primera from a store?

       Yes, but with reservations:

       • ✅ Suitable for local repairs (chips up to 5 cm).
       • ❌ Not recommended for complete painting of parts — cans give an uneven layer.
       • 🔍 Choose cans with original code (For example, KH3 from Nippon Paint).

       For best results:

       1. Apply 2-3 thin coats with 10 minutes drying in between.
       2. Apply varnish (eg Motip Clear Lacquer).
       3. Polish after 24 hours.
       What varnish code should I use for Primera?

       For all generations Primera The following varnishes are used:

       Paint type	Varnish code	Manufacturer
       Metallic (KH3, QM1)	UC35	Nissan Paint
       Mother of pearl (KM2, TV2)	UC80	Nissan Paint
       Single layer (AH3, WY0)	Not required	—

       For restoration of old P10 You can use universal varnish UC50, but it is less resistant to UV rays.