Rear silent blocks on Nissan Qashqai - one of those components that often fails after 100–150 thousand kilometers, especially if the car is operated on bad roads or with overload. Their wear does not appear immediately, but ignoring the problem is dangerous: damaged rubber-metal joints lead to play in the rear suspension, deterioration in handling and even damage to the arm mounts. In this article we will look at how to determine a malfunction, which silent blocks to choose for Qashqai J10 (2007–2013) and J11 (2014–2021), and we will also describe in detail the replacement process, taking into account typical errors and nuances.
Replacing rear silent blocks yourself is a task of average complexity that requires care and the right tools. If you have never worked with a suspension, it is better to contact a service center. But if you have experience in chassis repairs (for example, replacing struts or balls) and access to a pit or lift, you can handle it in 3–5 hours. The main thing is to take your time and follow the key rules: correctly press out old silent blocks, avoid distortions when installing new ones and be sure to check the geometry of the levers after assembly.
Signs of wear on the rear silent blocks Nissan Qashqai
Rear suspension silent blocks wear out gradually, and their failure can easily be confused with problems with shock absorbers or wheel bearings. However, there are a number of symptoms that directly indicate the destruction of rubber-metal bushings:
- 🚗 Knocks in the rear of the body when driving over bumps (especially at low speeds). The sound comes from the wheel arches and intensifies when there is a load (for example, with passengers or luggage).
- 🔄 Rear axle play with a sharp start or braking, the car seems to “walk” along the road, and the steering wheel becomes less informative.
- 📉 Uneven rear tire wear (especially the inside of the tread), which is not related to wheel alignment. This occurs due to a change in the wheel alignment angle.
- 🛑 Vibrations on the body when driving on a flat road at a speed of 60–90 km/h. Often accompanied by a squeaking or squeaking noise in the rear control arm area.
On Qashqai J10 (first generation) silent blocks of the rear levers fail more often than on J11, due to design features: the bushings there are smaller in size and “tanner” faster due to temperature changes. On restyled versions (after 2010), the problem has been partially solved, but with aggressive driving, the service life still rarely exceeds 120 thousand km.
⚠️ Attention: If on your Qashqai There is a metallic grinding noise in the rear suspension, this may be a sign complete destruction of the silent block - when the metal bushing rubs against the lever. In this case, you cannot drive the car: there is a risk of the lever coming off during a sudden maneuver!
For an accurate diagnosis, a visual examination is sufficient. Raise the car on a lift or drive it into an inspection hole and check:
- Integrity of the rubber part of silent blocks (cracks, tears, “extrusion” of rubber).
- Play in the levers when rocking them with a mount.
- Traces of corrosion on metal bushings - this accelerates wear.
- Every 10 thousand km
- Once a year
- Only when knocking occurs
- Never checked
Which silent blocks to choose for replacement: original vs analogues
On Nissan Qashqai Two types of rear silent blocks are installed:
- Front silent block of rear lever (closer to the body). Original article:
54501-JM00A(for J10) or54501-4M50A(for J11). - Rear silent block of the rear lever (closer to the wheel). Original article:
54501-JM01A(J10) or54501-4M51A(J11).
The cost of original spare parts from Nissan — from 1,500 to 2,500 rubles per piece. However, many owners choose analogues, which are cheaper, but not always inferior in quality. The table below shows verified brands and their articles:
| Brand | Article (front/rear) | Price per piece, rub. | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Febi | 22380 / 22381 |
800–1 200 | Good price/quality ratio, soft tires |
| Lemforder | 33506 01 / 33507 01 |
1 200–1 800 | Stiffer than the original, more durable during aggressive driving |
| Sasic | 2005450 / 2005451 |
600–900 | Budget option, suitable for quiet use |
| TRW | JBJ757 / JBJ758 |
1 500–2 000 | Premium quality, often used in services |
When choosing analogues, pay attention to bushing material: for cheap silent blocks it can be made of low-quality rubber, which “dumbs” after 30–40 thousand km. The best option for most drivers is Febi or Lemforder. If you drive mainly around the city, you can save money and take Sasic, but their resource will be lower.
⚠️ Attention: On Qashqai J11 with the system 4WD (all-wheel drive) rear silent blocks have a reinforced design. You cannot install parts from front-wheel drive versions on such cars - this will lead to rapid wear!
Before purchasing, check whether the selected silent blocks are suitable for your modification. For example, for Qashqai J10 with engine 2.0 dCi (diesel) different part numbers may be required than for petrol 1.6. Check the VIN with the seller or use online catalogs like Exist.ru or Autodoc.
If you buy non-original silent blocks, take them with a reserve - sometimes you come across defective bushings (with an offset center or cracks). Check the geometry before installation!
Tools and preparation for replacement
To replace the rear silent blocks with Nissan Qashqai you will need:
Jack and supports (or lift)
Set of sockets and keys (14, 17, 19 mm)
Silent block remover (or a homemade device made from a bolt, nut and pipe)
Hammer and chisel (for careful pressing)
WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant
Torque wrench (for tightening to the correct torque)
New silent blocks and lubricant (for example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste)
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If you don’t have a puller, you can make one yourself. For this you will need:
- Bolt M12–M14, length 10–15 cm.
- Nut and washers of the appropriate diameter.
- A piece of pipe (the internal diameter should be slightly larger than the silent block).
Before starting work:
- Place the machine on a level surface and secure the front wheels with chocks.
- Loosen the rear wheel bolts (but do not remove it completely).
- Raise the rear of the car and securely support it (do not just use a jack!).
- Remove the wheel and clean the lever and silent blocks from dirt.
Critically important: before pressing out the old silent blocks, mark their position relative to the lever with a marker. This will help avoid mistakes when installing new ones and maintain the correct suspension geometry.
What happens if the tightening torque is not observed?
If the bolts securing the levers are not tightened sufficiently, the silent blocks will “walk”, which will lead to their accelerated wear. If over-tightened, the rubber of the bushing may become deformed, causing play to appear after 10–20 thousand km. For Qashqai tightening torque of lever bolts - 80–100 Nm (check the manual for your model).
Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear silent blocks
The replacement process is the same for both generations Qashqai (J10 and J11), but on J11 It may be necessary to remove the anti-roll bar for convenience. Let's look at the algorithm using an example J10:
1. Removing the lever
Unscrew the two bolts securing the lever to the body (with a 17 or 19 mm head). If the bolts are stuck, use WD-40 and give the lubricant time to work (10–15 minutes). After this, carefully knock out the bolts with a hammer through a soft spacer (for example, a wooden block).
Next, unscrew the bolt securing the lever to the hub (with a 14 mm socket) and remove the lever. If it does not come off, lightly tap it with a hammer through the spacer.
2. Pressing out old silent blocks
This is the most time-consuming stage. There are two ways:
- 🔧 Using a puller: Clamp the lever in a vice, install the puller and gradually press out the silent block. It is important to do this evenly, without distortions.
- 🔨 Homemade device: Insert the bolt through the hole in the silent block, put on the pipe and nut. By tightening the nut, you will push out the bushing. To make the process easier, you can pre-cut the rubber part with a chisel.
Be careful: when pressing out, do not damage the seat in the lever. If the metal is deformed, the new silent block will sit crookedly and will have to be replaced again.
3. Installation of new silent blocks
Before installation, clean the seats from rust and dirt. It is recommended to lubricate new bushings copper paste or soap solution to facilitate pressing. Install them strictly according to the marks you made earlier!
Carry out the pressing using the same puller or a homemade device, but in the reverse order. Make sure that the silent block is seated all the way and is not warped. After installation, check whether the inner sleeve rotates freely (if it is not movable, it means the silent block is defective).
4. Assembly and tightening
Reinstall the lever, insert the bolts and tighten them previously (not completely!). Lower the car onto the wheels so that the suspension takes the working position, and only then tighten the bolts to the required torque (80–100 Nm).
After replacement, be sure to check:
- No play in the levers.
- Correct installation of the wheels (they should rotate freely, without touching the arches).
- No extraneous sounds when rocking the car.
The most common mistake when replacing silent blocks is incorrect tightening of the bolts. Always lower the car onto the wheels before final tightening, otherwise the suspension geometry will be disrupted!
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when replacing silent blocks. Here are the most common ones and how to prevent them:
| Error | Consequences | How to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Incorrect pressing (misalignment) | Damage to the seat in the lever | Use a puller or homemade device with uniform pressure |
| Installing a silent block without marks | Wheel alignment violations, accelerated tire wear | Make marks with a marker before removing old bushings |
| Tightening bolts on a suspended machine | Misalignment of levers, knocking in the suspension | Tighten the bolts only after lowering the car onto the wheels. |
| Using cheap analogues | Rapid wear (20–30 thousand km) | Choose trusted brands (Febi, Lemforder) |
Another common problem is corrosion of lever mounting bolts. If the bolts are very stuck, do not try to unscrew them by force: this may cause the threads to break or the key to break. Better process them WD-40 or PB Blaster and wait 1-2 hours. As a last resort, the bolts can be cut off with a grinder, but then you will have to buy new ones (the article number for the original bolts is 08922-60010).
After replacing silent blocks, many owners forget about wheel alignment adjustment. Even if you installed everything correctly, the wheel alignment angles may have changed. You can check this by the wear of the tires: if after 1–2 thousand km the tread begins to “eat up” on one side, urgently go to a wheel alignment.
Cost of service replacement vs self-repair
If you decide to contact the service, the cost of replacing the rear silent blocks with Nissan Qashqai will depend on the region and level of the service station. On average prices are as follows:
- 🔧 Replacing one silent block: 1,500–2,500 rubles (work).
- 🔧 Replacement kit (4 pcs.): 4,000–7,000 rubles (work).
- 🔧 Additionally: wheel alignment - 1,500–2,500 rubles.
Taking into account the cost of spare parts (from 3,000 rubles for a set of analogues), the total amount will result in 7,000–12,000 rubles. Replacing it yourself will cost less - about 3,000–5,000 rubles (spare parts + lubricant only), but will require time and tools.
The savings when repairing yourself are obvious, but consider the risks:
- If you damage the lever or body when pressing it out, repairs will cost more.
- Without a torque wrench, it is difficult to maintain the tightening torque, which will lead to premature wear.
- Lack of experience can lead to assembly errors that will only appear over time (for example, play in the suspension).
If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. This is especially true Qashqai J11 with the system 4WD, where errors when replacing silent blocks can affect the operation of the all-wheel drive.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to drive with worn rear silent blocks?
Short-term (1-2 weeks) - yes, but with caution. Long driving with destroyed silent blocks leads to:
- Accelerated tire wear.
- There is play in the rear axle, which is dangerous during sudden maneuvers.
- Damage to the fastenings of the levers (up to their separation).
If knocking or vibrations occur, it is better to immediately replace the bushings.
Do I need to change silent blocks in pairs?
Preferred, but not required. If the wear is one-sided (for example, only on the right), only the problematic bushings can be replaced. However, keep in mind that silent blocks wear out at about the same rate, and after 20–30 thousand km the remaining ones may need to be replaced.
How often do you need to check the condition of silent blocks?
Recommended interval:
- Every 20 thousand km - visual inspection of the pit.
- Every 60 thousand km - check the play of the levers.
- After strong impacts (for example, hitting a curb) - unscheduled diagnostics.
Is it possible to restore silent blocks without replacement?
No, this is a temporary solution. Some craftsmen offer to “repair” silent blocks by pouring polyurethane resin into them or replacing rubber. However, such repairs do not last long (5-10 thousand km) and can aggravate the problem. It is better to install new bushings immediately.
Which silent blocks are better - rubber or polyurethane?
For Nissan Qashqai The factory provides only rubber silent blocks. Polyurethane analogues (Powerflex, Whiteline) are more durable, but:
- 2–3 times more expensive.
- Stiffer, which worsens comfort.
- May creak at low temperatures.
It is advisable to install them only on sports versions or when tuning the suspension.