Inner CV joint (constant velocity joint) on Nissan Qashqai - a critical transmission element that transmits torque from the gearbox to the wheels. Its wear or breakdown can lead to vibrations, crunching when turning, and even blocking of the drive. Owners Kashkaev first (J10, 2007–2013) and second (J11, 2014–2021) generations are often faced with the need to replace this unit after 100–150 thousand km, especially during aggressive driving or operation in off-road conditions.

In this article we will look at all stages of replacing the internal CV joint on Nissan Qashqai - from fault diagnosis to assembly and testing. You will learn what tools are needed, how to properly remove the drive shaft, what Models with CVT have unique nuances and how to avoid common mistakes. The material is suitable for both beginners and experienced car owners who want to save money on service stations.

Signs of a faulty internal CV joint on a Nissan Qashqai

The internal CV joint fails gradually, and its failure can be recognized by several characteristic symptoms. The main thing is not to confuse them with problems with the outer joint or wheel bearings.

Main features:

  • 🔊 Crunching or clicking noise when driving at low speed (20–40 km/h) and rectilinear movement. Unlike the external CV joint, which crunches when turning, the internal one manifests itself even on a flat road.
  • 🌀 Vibration on the body or steering wheel when accelerating, especially at speeds of 60–80 km/h. Vibration may increase under load (for example, when climbing a hill).
  • 🛑 Jerks when starting off or gear shifting (relevant for models with Manual transmission And CVT). This is due to play in the joint, which does not ensure smooth torque transmission.
  • 💧 Lubricant leaks on the CV joint boot or near the gearbox. If the boot is torn, dirt gets inside the joint and accelerates its wear.

On Nissan Qashqai J11 with variator JF016E a faulty inner CV joint may also occur delayed reaction to gas — the car seems to “think” before starting to move. This is due to the fact that the CVT is sensitive to changes in load in the transmission.

⚠️ Attention: If the crunch is accompanied metallic grinding, this may indicate destruction of the separator or CV joint balls. In this case, further operation of the vehicle prohibited — risk of wheel locking while driving!
📊 What symptom of CV joint failure do you observe?
  • Crunching sound when moving
  • Vibration at speed
  • Jerks when starting off
  • Lubricant leaks
  • No problem (prevention)

What tools and spare parts will be needed

To replace the inner CV joint with Nissan Qashqai will be required specialized tool, since the drive shaft is attached to the gearbox with bolts with a high tightening torque. Here's the full list:

Category Name Notes
Tools 32 mm socket (for hub nut) Preferably shock, with an extension cord
Tools 10 and 12 mm socket wrench For bolts securing the CV joint to the box
Tools Mount or puller for CV joint To remove the joint from the shaft
Spare parts Inner CV joint (article: 39300-4M000 for J10, 39300-4M010 for J11) Original or analogues: GKN, SKF, Febi
Consumables CV joint boot with clamps It is recommended to replace even if the old one is intact

For models with CVT additionally required crankshaft clamp (For example, Nissan 14057-4M000), since when the hub nut is unscrewed, the box shaft may rotate. Also useful torque wrench for tightening the bolts with the correct torque (40–50 Nm for attaching the CV joint to the box).

If you plan to replace the CV joint yourself, be sure to buy a new boot and lubricant (For example, Molykote BR2 Plus). Saving on the boot will lead to rapid failure of the new hinge!

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Before purchasing a CV joint, check its article number using your VIN code Qashqai. On models with all-wheel drive (4WD), the internal CV joints are different from those on front-wheel drive (2WD).

Preparing the vehicle and removing the drive shaft

It is more convenient to replace the inner CV joint with lift or inspection hole, but in the absence of such, you can get by with a jack and reliable supports. The main thing is to provide access to the bottom of the transmission.

Step-by-step preparation instructions:

  1. Place the car on a level surface, secure the rear wheels with chocks and loosen the hub nut (but don't remove it completely!). To do this you will need a 32mm socket and a long wrench.
  2. Jack up the front of the car and remove the wheel. On models with CVT turn on the mode first P (Parking).
  3. Disconnect ABS sensor connector (if it is in the way) and remove the brake caliper, hanging it on a wire so as not to damage the hose.
  4. Unscrew the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (14 mm socket wrench) and move the strut to the side.

Now you can begin dismantling the drive shaft. There is key nuance: on Nissan Qashqai J11 the shaft is attached to the gearbox three bolts, and on J10four. Don't lose the washers under the bolts!

Loosen the hub nut|Disconnect the ball joint|Remove the brake caliper|Unscrew the bolts securing the CV joint to the box|Prepare a container for possible drainage of oil (for a variator)-->

After unscrewing the bolts, carefully remove the shaft from the box. If it goes sour, use the pry bar as a lever, but do not force the boot - it may break. On CVT models, be careful: when removing the shaft, a small amount of oil may leak out of the box.

Removing and replacing the inner CV joint

With the drive shaft removed, you can begin replacing the joint. Inner CV joint on Qashqai attached to the shaft using retaining ring, so to remove it you will need a puller or a vice.

Algorithm of actions:

  1. Clamp the shaft in a vice using soft spacers (such as rags) to avoid damaging the splines.
  2. Remove the boot clamps and cut off the old boot if it is damaged. If the boot is intact, carefully pull it off the shaft.
  3. Using a puller or hammer and a copper drift, knock down the retaining ring and remove the old CV joint. Strike the inner race of the joint in the direction from the shaft.
  4. Clean the shaft of old grease and dirt. Check the splines for burrs - if there are any, the shaft will also have to be replaced.
  5. Place the new boot on the shaft, but do not secure it with clamps until the CV joint is installed.
  6. Apply fresh lubricant to the shaft splines and the inside of the new CV joint. Install the joint onto the shaft until the locking ring clicks.
  7. Fill the boot with grease (approximately 80–100 grams) and secure it with clamps.

When installing a new CV joint, pay attention to marking: There should be an arrow on the joint body indicating the direction of rotation. For left drive shaft arrow points clockwise, for rightagainst.

⚠️ Attention: If you are installing a non-original CV joint (for example, GKN or SKF), check the package - some manufacturers do not include a locking ring in the kit. It can be used from an old CV joint if it is not deformed.
What to do if the CV joint does not fit on the shaft?

If the new CV joint does not seat all the way, the snap ring may not be in place. Try:

1. Turn the CV joint on the shaft in different directions so that the ring fits into the groove.

2. Lightly tap the inner race with a hammer through a wooden spacer.

3. If it doesn’t help, check the diameter of the shaft (it may be worn out and needs to be replaced).

Shaft installation and assembly: nuances for CVT and manual transmission

After replacing the CV joint, proceed to reassembly. There are several here critical moments, especially for cars with a CVT JF016E:

For Manual transmission:

  • 🔧 Before installing the shaft into the box, check the condition oil seal at the CV joint attachment point. If it is worn out, replace it (part number: 38345-4M000).
  • 🔩 Tighten the bolts securing the CV joint to the box criss-cross with a torque of 40–45 Nm.

For variator:

  • 🛢️ After removing the shaft, check the oil level in the variator. If oil leaks, add Nissan CVT Fluid NS-3 to the level.
  • 🔄 When installing the shaft, make sure that spline connection engages with the box shaft all the way. If the shaft does not reach, do not apply force - check if the retaining ring is in the way.

General assembly order:

  1. Install the shaft into the gearbox and secure with bolts.
  2. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts to a torque of 80–100 Nm.
  3. Install the brake caliper and wheel.
  4. Lower the car and tighten the hub nut torque 200–220 Nm (for Qashqai J10) or 250–270 Nm (for J11).
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After replacing the CV joint, be sure to check the wheel alignment angles (wheel alignment). Even if you didn't touch the tie rods, removing the ball joint could affect the suspension geometry.

Checking after replacement: how to make sure everything is done correctly

After assembly it is necessary to carry out test driveto make sure there are no vibrations, crunching or other signs of malfunction. Here's what to check:

On site:

  • 🔄 Smooth wheel rotation. Jack up the car, put it in neutral and spin the wheel by hand. It should rotate without jamming or extraneous sounds.
  • 🛑 Shaft play. Grasp the inner CV joint with your hand and try to rock the shaft in different directions. There should be no play.

On the move:

  • 🚗 Acceleration up to 60 km/h. The vibrations or crunching should disappear. If they remain, it may be faulty external CV joint or there is a problem with the gearbox.
  • 🔄 Low speed turns. There should be no clicks when the steering column is fully turned out.
  • 🛣️ Driving on rough roads. Check if there is a crunching noise when driving over potholes or bumps.

If vibration remains after replacing the CV joint, the reasons may be as follows:

  • Insufficient tightening of the hub nut.
  • Damage to the splines on the shaft or in the gearbox.
  • Incorrect installation of the retaining ring (CV joint is not seated all the way).
  • Wear of the hub bearing (its life often coincides with the life of the CV joint).

If the symptoms of the malfunction remain, re-inspect location of the CV joint installation and, if necessary, contact a service station for diagnostics.

Service life and prevention: how to extend the life of a new CV joint

Resource of internal CV joint for Nissan Qashqai depends on operating conditions and quality of spare parts. Original hinges Nissan or GKN serve 150-200 thousand km, and inexpensive analogues - 80-100 thousand km. To extend service life:

Recommendations for use:

  • 🛣️ Avoid abrupt starts with the wheels turned out (for example, when leaving a parking lot). This creates maximum load on the inner CV joint.
  • 💨 Monitor the condition of the anthers. Inspect them every 10–15 thousand km. If cracks or lubricant leaks appear, replace the boot immediately.
  • 🔧 Change the oil in the box in a timely manner (every 60 thousand km for a CVT, 90 thousand km for a manual transmission). Dirty oil accelerates wear on spline joints.
  • 🚿 Wash your wheel arches in winter. Salt and reagents destroy the anthers and corrode the shaft.

It is also worth paying attention to quality of roads. Regular off-road driving or potholes reduces the life of the CV joint by 1.5–2 times. If you often use Qashqai in difficult conditions, install reinforced hinges (for example, GKN Premium).

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When replacing the CV joint with Nissan Qashqai with all-wheel drive (4WD), it is recommended to simultaneously check the condition center differential. Its malfunction can create additional stress on the drive shafts.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing the inner CV joint on a Nissan Qashqai

Is it possible to drive with a crisp CV joint?

Short term - yes, but it's not worth the risk. A crunching noise indicates wear on the balls or cage, and at any moment the CV joint can jam. If this happens at speed, the wheel will lock, resulting in loss of control. The maximum mileage with a faulty CV joint is 500–1000 km, but only to a service station.

Which CV joint is better to choose: original or analogue?

Original CV joints Nissan (39300-4M000 for J10, 39300-4M010 for J11) more reliable, but more expensive (4-6 thousand rubles). Good analogues:

  • GKN (article 501 030) - resource comparable to the original, price ~3 thousand rubles.
  • SKF (VKJA 6611) is a high-quality alternative, but there are fakes.
  • Febi (28300) - a budget option (2 thousand rubles), but the resource is less.

For CVT models it is better to take the original or GKN — they vibrate less.

Is it necessary to change the oil in the box after replacing the CV joint?

If we are talking about mechanics, then no - when replacing the CV joint, the oil does not drain. But if you variator, and when removing the shaft, oil leaked out, be sure to check the level and top up if necessary. A complete oil change in the variator is recommended if it turns black or has a burning smell.

Is it possible to replace only the boot without touching the CV joint?

Theoretically yes, but only if the CV joint is not crunching yet and has no backlash. If the boot is torn and dirt gets inside the joint, it will still have to be replaced - the lubricant will be washed out and wear will accelerate. When replacing the boot, be sure to wash the CV joint with kerosene and apply new lubricant.

How long does it take to replace an inner CV joint?

In a garage with a pit or a lift, the work takes 3–5 hours (including removal/installation of the shaft and inspection). At the service station this is done in 1.5–2 hours. The longest stage is unscrewing the hub nut (especially if it is “stuck”).