Nissan Almera Classic does not start: the starter does not turn - what to do?

Yours Nissan Almera Classic refuses to start, and the starter doesn’t even try to turn the engine? This problem is familiar to many model owners. B10 (2006–2012) and restyled version G15 (2012–2018). There can be dozens of reasons - from a dead battery to a broken solenoid relay or broken wiring. In this article we will look at all possible malfunctions, we’ll learn how to diagnose them without a car scanner and show you how to fix the problem yourself.

Feature Almera Classic - her “inheritance” from Renault Samsung SM3, due to which electrical circuits and the location of components may differ from the usual Nissan. For example, The starter fuse here often blows due to a short circuit in the control circuit, and not due to overload. We took into account all the nuances of the model and collected current solutions for different years of production.

1. Primary diagnosis: what to check first

Before disassembling the starter or messing with the electronics, perform basic checks. They will take 5–10 minutes, but will help eliminate 70% of possible causes.

• 🔋 Battery: voltage must be no lower 12.4 V (with the ignition off). When trying to start - no lower 10.5 V. If the voltmeter shows 9–10 V, the starter will not be able to crank the crankshaft.
• 🔌 Battery terminals: Oxidation or poor ground contact (negative wire) often simulates a starter malfunction. Move the terminals - if sparks or clicks appear, the problem is in the contact.
• 🔑 Ignition switch: turn the key to position II (ON) — the lamps on the dashboard should light up. If they do not light up, the problem is in the contact group of the lock.
• 🚨 Alarm/immobilizer: on Almera Classic Often the starter lock is triggered due to a malfunction in the key chip or immo antenna. Try starting the car with the second key.

If all points are normal, but the starter is silent, proceed to in-depth diagnostics. Please note: on models with Automatic transmission the starter will not turn if the gear selector is not in the position P (Parking) or N (Neutral). Check this before proceeding further!

2. The starter does not turn, but clicks are heard: reasons and solutions

Clicking noise when turning the key is a classic symptom. Solenoid relay malfunction or burning of contacts. On Almera Classic this occurs in 40% of cases of such malfunctions. Let's figure out why this happens:

• 🔧 Relay “nickels” burned out: the contacts inside the retractor burn over time, and current does not flow to the starter winding. The solution is to replace the relay or starter assembly.
• 🔋 Weak battery: If there is only enough voltage to operate the relay, but not to crank the starter, you will hear a single click. Check the battery with a load fork.
• 🔌 Starter winding break: if the relay clicks, but the starter does not rotate, there may be a break in the armature winding. Diagnosed with a multimeter (winding resistance must be 0.1–0.5 Ohm).

How to temporarily start the car if the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn? You can try close the relay contacts with a screwdriver (only for manual transmissions!). To do this:

1. Place the car in neutral and tighten the handbrake.
2. Remove the chip from the solenoid relay (it is usually red).
3. Using an insulated screwdriver, close the two large bolts on the relay (contacts B+ And M).

⚠️ Attention: This method is dangerous! If the circuit is inaccurately closed, it can burn the starter winding or cause a fire. Use it only as a last resort.

3. The starter is completely silent: where to look for the problem

If when you turn the key there are no sounds - no clicks, no hum - the problem lies in control circuits or electronics. On Almera Classic Most often the culprits are:

Malfunction	Signs	How to check
Fuse blown	The starter does not respond, other devices work	Check the fuse F30 (10A) in the block under the hood
Starter relay faulty	There is no relay click when turning the key	Change the relay K5 in the passenger compartment (next to the fuses)
Ground wire break	The starter does not work, but the dashboard lights are on	Check the ground on the body near the battery and on the starter
Immobilizer failure	The immo light on the dash is flashing	Try the second key or reset the error with a scanner

Pay special attention fuse F30 — he is responsible for the starter control circuit. On Almera Classic it often burns out due to a short circuit in the wiring under the hood (especially after washing or rain). If the fuse is blown, do not replace it with a more powerful one - this may cause a fire!

Another “tricky” malfunction - broken wire from the ignition switch to the starter. On the model G15 (2012–2018) this wire often rubs against the clutch pedal bracket. Inspect the wiring harness near the steering column - if the insulation is damaged, replace the wire.

4. Problems with the ignition switch and contact group

If the starter does not respond to turning the key, but at the same time dashboard does not light up or the lights are blinking - it’s the culprit ignition switch. On Almera Classic this is a weak point: the contact group wears out after 100–150 thousand kilometers.

How to check the ignition switch:

1. Remove the plastic steering column cover (unscrew the 2 screws from the bottom).
2. Disconnect the chip from the ignition switch (it is usually black).
3. Use a multimeter to check the resistance between the contacts 15 And 30 in key position II (ON). It must be 0 ohm.

If there is no resistance or “floats”, the contact group is faulty. Workaround: You can bend the contacts inside the lock with a thin screwdriver. But this will not be enough for a long time - in 1-2 months the problem will return. The best option is to replace the contact group (article number for Almera Classic: 28501-4M000).

⚠️ Attention: on models with immobilizer after replacing the ignition switch, it may be necessary to “bind” the keys to the computer. Without this, the car will not start!

How to remove the ignition switch without a key?

If the key is lost or broken, the lock can be removed by drilling out the mounting bolt from the back. But be careful: this will trigger the immobilizer, and the car will not start without flashing the ECU.

5. Starter diagnostics: how to check without removing

Before removing the starter, try checking it without dismantling. To do this you will need a multimeter and an assistant.

Check procedure:

1. Place the car in neutral and set the parking brake.
2. Remove the chip from the solenoid relay (usually it is red or black).
3. Connect positive multimeter probe to contact 50 on the chip (thin wire), and minus - to mass.
4. Have an assistant turn the key to START. The voltage should be 12 V. If it is not there, the problem is in the control circuit (ignition switch, relay, fuse).

If there is voltage, but the starter does not turn:

• Check power plus (thick wire from the battery to the starter). It must be intact, without oxidation.
• Close the contacts with a screwdriver B+ And M on the solenoid relay. If the starter works, change the relay.
• If the starter does not respond even to a direct short circuit, remove it for repair or replacement.

On Nissan Almera Classic the starter is attached three bolts: two on top and one on the bottom. To remove it you will need head 14 and an extension cord. Be careful - the bottom bolt often sticks and is easy to break off.

6. Typical starter malfunctions on Almera Classic

Starter on Nissan Almera Classic - the node is reliable, but it also has “weak points”. Here most common breakdowns:

• 🔧 Brush wear: after 150–200 thousand km, the brushes wear out and the starter begins to “be capricious.” Symptoms: the starter turns only once or with difficulty.
• 🔄 Jammed bendix: if you hear the starter hum, but the flywheel does not turn, the Bendix is to blame. On Almera Classic it often turns sour due to dirt.
• 🔥 Collector burning: In this case, the starter may turn jerkily or with smoke. Requires disassembly and cleaning of the collector.
• 🧲 Overrunning clutch failure: The starter turns, but does not disconnect from the flywheel after starting. You hear a grinding noise - change the bendix immediately!

If you decide to repair the starter yourself, please note: Almera Classic often found fake parts (especially bendixes and solenoid relays). Buy parts only from trusted suppliers. Original articles:

• Starter assembly: 23300-4M000 (for engine K4M 1.6)
• Solenoid relay: 23330-4M000
• Bendix: 23410-4M000

The cost of a new starter is from 8 to 15 thousand rubles, repairs will cost 3–5 thousand. If the budget is limited, you can find a used spare part at a disassembly site, but check it before buying!

7. Alternative methods of starting the engine

If the starter fails on the road and repairs are postponed, you can try alternative launch methods. They will only fit a manual transmission!

• 🚗 Push launch: turn on 2nd gear, depress the clutch and accelerate the car to 10–15 km/h. Quickly release the clutch and the engine should start.
• 🔧 Direct closure of the starter: if the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, you can close the contacts B+ And M on the retractor with a screwdriver (see section 2).
• 🔋 Connecting to another battery: if the battery is dead, “light it” from another car. On Almera Classic The “plus” is located under the red cap, the “minus” is on the body next to it.

For automatic transmission (Almera Classic with Automatic transmission Jatco) these methods are not suitable! The only way out is to repair the starter or tow it to a service station.

⚠️ Attention: when starting from a pusher Almera Classic with engine HR16DE (2012–2018) ECU protection may be triggered. If, after starting, the “check” light comes on on the device, reset the error using the scanner.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the Nissan Almera Classic starter

The starter turns, but the engine does not start. What is the reason?

If the starter turns the flywheel properly, but the engine does not catch, the problem lies in:

• 🔥 Spark plugs (check spark).
• ⛽ Fuel pump (When the ignition is turned on, the hum of the pump should be heard).
• 📶 Crankshaft sensor (without its signal, the ECU does not supply fuel).
• 🔧 Timing belt (if it’s torn, the valves will meet the pistons).

On Almera Classic often fails ignition coil (item: 22448-4M000). Check it with a multimeter (primary winding resistance: 0.5–1.0 Ohm).

Which starter is suitable for Almera Classic 1.6?

For engine K4M 1.6 (2006–2012) starters fit:

• Original: 23300-4M000 or 23300-4M001.
• Analogues: Bosch 0 001 108 005, Valeo 438083, Denso DST2150.

For restyled model G15 (2012–2018) with engine HR16DE need a starter 23300-JK00A.

When choosing an analogue, pay attention to number of bendix teeth - on Almera Classic there should be them 9.

Can I repair the starter myself?

Yes, if you have experience with power tools. For repair you will need:

• 🔧 Set of sockets and extension.
• 🔨 Hammer and punch (to remove the retaining ring).
• 🧴 WD-40 (bolts often stick).
• 🔍 Multimeter for checking windings.

The most common repairs:

• Replacing brushes (item: 23310-4M000).
• Cleaning the commutator (use fine sandpaper P1000).
• Replacing the bendix (requires a puller).

If the armature or stator winding is damaged, the starter is easier to replace than to repair.

How much does it cost to replace a starter at a service station?

The cost of work depends on the region and complexity:

Type of work	Price (RUB)
Replacing the starter (without removing the protection)	1 500 – 2 500
Replacing the solenoid relay	800 – 1 500
Starter repair (replacement of brushes/bendix)	2 000 – 3 500
Starter circuit diagnostics	500 – 1 000

In Moscow and St. Petersburg, prices are 20–30% higher. If the starter is replaced together with the flywheel (for example, after a timing belt breaks), the cost of work will increase to 5,000–8,000 rub.

What happens if you turn the starter for a long time?

On Nissan Almera Classic long starter operation (more than 10–15 seconds) leads to:

• 🔥 Overheating of windings (the insulation may melt).
• 🔋 Low battery (especially in winter).
• 🛑 Bendix failure (teeth break off due to load).
• 💥 Burnout of solenoid relay contacts.

If the car does not start after 3-4 attempts, pause 1–2 minutesto allow the starter to cool down. On models with Automatic transmission Prolonged rotation of the starter can also damage the torque converter.