Removing the starter on a Nissan Almera: instructions with photos and advice from experts

Starter in Nissan Almera - a unit that sooner or later requires attention: either the brushes will wear out, then the solenoid relay will begin to act up, or the bendix will jam. If the engine does not turn when you turn the key or you hear extraneous sounds (grinding, clicking), most likely this is the problem. Remove the starter Almere you can do it yourself - it will save 2-3 thousand rubles at a service station, but it will require accuracy and the right approach.

In this article we will analyze the dismantling process step by step for all generations Nissan Almera (including N16, G15 And B10), we will indicate the necessary tools, warn against common mistakes and give diagnostic tips. We will pay special attention to the nuances that are not written in standard manuals - for example, how to do without a hole or how not to damage the wiring when disconnecting the terminals.

Preparing for work: tools and safety precautions

Before you climb under the hood, make sure you have everything you need. Starter on Almere located at the bottom of the engine, so normal access to it is indispensable. If you do not have a viewing hole or a lift, you will have to work “lying down” - this is inconvenient, but possible.

Here minimal set of toolswhich you will need:

• 🔧 Set of heads (required) 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm) and ratchet wrench
• 🔧 Extension for heads (at least 10 cm)
• 🔧 Socket wrench on 17 mm (for attaching the starter)
• 🔧 Screwdriver with flat and Phillips blade
• 🔧 Jack and stops (if there is no hole)
• 🔧 Penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent)
• 🔧 Multimeter (to check the starter after removal)
• 🔧 Marker or electrical tape (for marking wires)

⚠️ Attention: If on your Almera crankcase protection is installed, it will have to be removed. Protection bolts often rust - treat them WD-40 in advance, otherwise you risk breaking the thread.

Don't forget about safety:

• 🚗 Put the car on the handbrake and engage first gear (or P on automatic transmission).
• ⚡ Disable negative battery terminal - this will protect against short circuit.
• 🔥 Do not smoke or work near open fire - there may be gasoline vapors under the hood.
• 👓 Wear gloves: the starter weighs 3-5 kg, and the sharp edges of the housing can injure your hands.

Where is the starter on a Nissan Almera and how to get to it

Starter location varies by generation Almeri:

• Nissan Almera N16 (2000–2006) — the starter is located to the right of the engine (if you look in the direction of travel), just below the intake manifold. Access to it is partially blocked by the air conditioning pipe.
• Nissan Almera G15 (2012–2019) - starter is displaced left and is located under the thermostat. The cooling system pipe is in the way here.
• Nissan Almera Classic (B10) - similar N16, but fastenings may differ.

On all models the starter is attached to clutch housing two or three bolts. The main problem is access to the top bolt often blocks the manifold or pipes. In some cases, you will have to remove the air duct or even part of the intake system.

Model	Number of mounting bolts	The main obstacle	Difficulty of access (1–5)
Almera N16 (QR20DE, GA16DE)	2	A/C pipe, intake manifold	4
Almera G15 (HR16DE)	3	Cooling pipe, thermostat	3
Almera Classic B10 (GA15DE)	2	Air duct, generator	3

If you have Almera N16 with air conditioning, be prepared to disconnect the refrigerant pipe. For this you will need special wrench for fittings (can be rented at a car service station). On G15 Usually it is enough to move the cooling system pipe to the side.

Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the starter on a Nissan Almera

Let's look at the process using an example Nissan Almera N16 (the most difficult option). For other models, the steps are similar, but the details may vary.

1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the negative terminal, then the positive one. This is mandatory - even residual current can cause a short circuit when working with the starter wires.

2. Remove the crankcase protection (if any). Bolts are usually 10 mm or 12 mm. If they are stuck, use a penetrating lubricant and give it time to work (10-15 minutes).

3. Disconnect the wires from the starter. There are two of them:

   • 🔌 Thick positive wire (from the battery) - secured with a nut on 12 mm.
   • 🔌 Thin wire (control, from the ignition switch) - usually held on a plastic retainer.

   Mark the wires with a marker or electrical tape so as not to get confused when reassembling!

4. Unscrew the starter mounting bolts. Here is the most difficult moment:

   • 🔧 Bottom bolt — accessible from below, head on 14 mm.
   • 🔧 Top bolt - you often have to unscrew it “by touch” through a small window between the collector and the block. Use an extension and a universal joint for the head.

Remove the starter. After unscrewing the bolts, pull it down and slightly to the left (at N16). Be careful - it may “catch” on surrounding parts.

Disconnected the battery|Removed the crankcase protection (if any)|Marked the wires with a marker|Treated the bolts with WD-40|Prepared a place for the starter (not on the ground!)-->

⚠️ Attention: On Almera G15 When removing the starter, you can accidentally damage the plastic pipe of the crankcase ventilation system. It is fragile and often breaks when moved carelessly. If this happens, the pipe will have to be replaced (part number: 21083-JM00A).

If the starter does not budge, do not use force - check that all bolts are unscrewed and there are no hidden fasteners. On Almera Classic sometimes they forget about the third bolt, which is hidden behind the generator.

Diagnostics of the starter after removal: what to check

Before you run to the store for a new starter, make sure that the old one is really faulty. Here basic checksthat you can do yourself:

1. Checking the solenoid relay. Connect the starter to the battery:

   • 🔋 Minus - on the starter housing.
   • 🔋 Plus - to the control contact of the relay (thin wire).

   If the relay clicks, but the bendix does not extend, the relay is faulty. If it doesn’t click, the problem is in the winding or contacts.

2. Bendix check. Turn the gear by hand - it should rotate one way only. If it spins in both directions or jams, the Bendix needs to be replaced.

3. Checking brushes and armatures. Disassemble the starter (if you have experience) and inspect:

   • 🔍 Brushes - if their length is less than 5 mm, replacement is required.
   • 🔍 Armature commutator - there should be no burns or deep grooves.
   • 🔍 Windings - blackening or a burning smell indicates an interturn short circuit.

4. Check with a multimeter. Measure the resistance between:

   • 📊 The body and winding of the armature must be more than 10 kOhm (otherwise a breakdown).
   • 📊 Contacts of the solenoid relay - when activated, the resistance should drop to 0 ohm.

If the starter turns, but does not develop the required speed, the problem may be battery (discharged) or engine weight (poor contact). Before replacing the starter, check the voltage at its terminals when starting - it should not be lower than 9–10 V.

How to check the starter without removing it from the car?

Connect a multimeter to the positive terminal of the starter (thick wire) and ground. When you turn the key, the voltage should drop no lower than 9 V. If it drops to 6–7 V, the problem is in the battery or wires, and not in the starter. You can also close the contacts of the solenoid relay with a screwdriver (for a short time!). If the starter spins, the relay or control circuit is faulty.

Typical mistakes when removing the starter and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to breakdowns or injuries. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Wires mixed up during reassembly. If you swap the control and power wires, the starter will burn out the first time it starts. Always label them!
• 🔧 Broken mounting bolts. Especially relevant for Almera N16where the top bolt often sticks. Do not try to unscrew it by force - it is better to use WD-40 and give it time to cool down.
• 🔧 Damaged wiring. The thick positive wire often “sticks” to the starter terminal. Don't pull it - gently twist and pull it, after treating the contact with cleaner.
• 🔧 Incorrect installation of the new starter. If the starter doesn't click into place, don't hit it with a hammer! Check to see if the bendix is ​​in the way or if dirt has gotten into the mounting grooves.
• 🔧 Ignoring post-installation checks. Always test the starter to final assembly. Connect it to the battery and check the operation - this will save time if something goes wrong.

⚠️ Attention: On Almera G15 If you remove the starter carelessly, you can damage the crankshaft position sensor, which is located nearby. If after installing the starter the engine does not start or runs intermittently, check the integrity of the sensor wiring (part number: 23731-4M21A).

Another common problem is forget to connect the control wire (thin). In this case, the starter will not respond to turning the key, but if you close the contacts on the solenoid relay with a screwdriver, it will spin. This is a classic symptom of an open control circuit.

Choosing a new starter: original vs analogues

If the starter cannot be repaired, you will have to buy a new one. Here's what you need to know:

Starter type	Article (original)	Price, rub.	Analogs (brand)	Notes
Almera N16 (QR20DE, 2.0 l)	23300-4M500	12 000–15 000	Bosch, Denso, Valeo	The original often comes complete with a retractor
Almera N16 (GA16DE, 1.6 l)	23300-6J000	9 000–11 000	Hella, Mitsuba	Possible problems with Bendix in cheap analogues
Almera G15 (HR16DE, 1.6 l)	23300-JK00A	14 000–17 000	Denso, Hitachi	Requires adaptation with ECU when replacing

When choosing an analogue, pay attention to:

• 🔍 Power - must match the original (usually 0.8–1.2 kW).
• 🔍 Mounting type — some analogues have different mounting ears.
• 🔍 Bendix length - if it is too long, the gear will not engage with the flywheel.

On Almera G15 after replacing the starter it may be necessary reset ECU adaptations, otherwise the engine will be difficult to start. To do this you need:

1. Disconnect the battery terminal for 10 minutes.
2. Plug it back in and turn the key to position ON (do not start!).
3. Wait 30 seconds - the ECU will reboot and “remember” the new starter.

Starter installation and final check

The installation is in reverse order, but there are a few key points:

1. Clean the seat. Remove dirt and rust from the clutch housing flange to ensure a tight starter seal.

2. Lubricate the mounting bolts. Use copper grease — it will prevent sticking and facilitate future dismantling.

3. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern. This will prevent the starter from being misaligned. Tightening torque - 25–30 Nm.

4. Connect the wires in the correct sequence:

   1. First control wire (thin).
   2. Then power wire (thick).

5. Check the work before final assembly. Connect the battery and try to start the engine. If the starter turns slowly or makes strange sounds, check:

   • 🔧 Correct installation (is there any skew).
   • 🔧 Condition of the flywheel (possibly worn teeth).
   • 🔧 Wire tension (they should not be stretched).

After successful starting, let the engine run for 2-3 minutes and stop again. Check:

• 🔥 Is there a burning smell (may indicate a short circuit).
• 🔊 Are there any extraneous noises when the starter is operating?
• ⚡ Voltage at the starter terminals when starting (must be at least 9 V).

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the starter the engine starts with difficulty (especially when Almera G15), the reason may be incorrect throttle adaptation. In this case, errors must be reset via a diagnostic scanner (for example, ELM327).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about removing the starter on Nissan Almera

Is it possible to remove the starter on an Almera N16 without a pit?

Yes, but it is extremely inconvenient. You will have to work lying under the car, jacking up the front part. The main problem is access to the top mounting bolt. We recommend using an extension with a universal joint and an inspection mirror.

The starter turns, but the engine does not start. What's the problem?

There are several reasons:

• 🔋 Battery is discharged (voltage below 11.5 V).
• 🔧 The flywheel or bendix teeth are worn out.
• 🔧 The retractor relay is faulty (the bendix does not fully extend).
• 🔧 Problems with the fuel system (no gasoline supplied) or ignition.

First check the voltage at the starter when starting, then inspect the bendix and flywheel.

Which starter is better to install on the Almera G15 - the original or an analogue?

Original starter (23300-JK00A) more reliable, but expensive (14–17 thousand rubles). Among the analogues that have proven themselves well:

• 🔋 Denso (article 280000-8660) - reliable, but expensive (10-12 thousand rubles).
• 🔋 Hitachi (article S125-011) - middle price segment (7-9 thousand rubles).
• 🔋 Bosch (article 0 001 108 005) - a budget option (5-6 thousand rubles), but may require modification of the fastenings.

Avoid no-name starters - they often fail after 10-20 thousand km.

Does the starter need to be lubricated during installation?

Yes, but only certain parts:

• 🔧 Fastening bolts - copper grease (prevents sticking).
• 🔧 Armature shaft — a few drops of motor oil (don’t overdo it!).
• 🔧 Bendix teeth - thin layer Litola-24.

Do not lubricate the commutator, brushes or solenoid relay contacts!

After replacing the starter, the car starts the third time. What to do?

This is a typical problem Almera G15 after replacing the starter. Causes and solutions:

• 🔧 The ECU adaptations were not reset. Remove the battery terminal for 10 minutes or use a diagnostic scan tool to reset.
• 🔧 Poor contact on the control wire. Check whether the chip is firmly seated on the solenoid relay.
• 🔧 Solenoid relay is faulty. Even a new relay may be defective - check it with a multimeter.

If the problem persists, check crankshaft position sensor — it could have shifted during work.