Outer CV joint <em>Nissan Almera Classic B10</em>: diagnosis, selection and replacement

Nissan Almera Classic B10 is one of the most popular sedans on the secondary market, but its chassis, especially outer CV joints, requires close attention. Wear of the grenade is manifested by a characteristic crunch when turning, and ignoring the problem leads to wheel blocking or damage to the gearbox. In this article, we will look at how to independently diagnose a malfunction, what spare parts to choose for replacement, and what to consider when making repairs.

Feature Almera Classic B10 (2006–2012) - design of drives with CV joint type "Rtseppa" (internal) and constant velocity joint LOEBRO or GKN (external). The latter often fail due to dirt entering through a damaged boot or natural wear. The average service life of the original CV joint is 100–150 thousand km, but with aggressive driving or lack of maintenance, this period is halved.

Signs of a malfunctioning outer CV joint on Nissan Almera Classic B10

The main symptom is crunching or clicking noise when turning, especially when fully loaded or during a sudden start. The sound may disappear on a straight line, but return at the slightest steering angle. In the later stages of wear, the following appear:

• 🔧 Vibration on the steering wheel or body during acceleration (indicates play in the joint).
• 🚗 Jerks when starting off (wear of balls or races).
• 💨 Whistling or squeaking from under the hood (may indicate a lack of lubrication).
• 🔴 Lubricant leaks on the inside of the wheel (boot rupture).

It is important to distinguish the crunch of a CV joint from sounds step bearing or worn out internal CV joint. The latter “buzzes” on a straight line when accelerating, and the outer one only when turning. For an accurate diagnosis:

⚠️ Attention: Do not confuse the crunch of a CV joint with noise from worn silent blocks of levers or stabilizer links. If you suspect a CV joint, check the play by rocking the drive shaft manually (with the wheel hanging out).

If the sound only appears when right turn — the problem is in the left CV joint (and vice versa). This is due to an increase in the load on the hinge when turning in the opposite direction.

Which CV joints are suitable for Nissan Almera Classic B10

Original spare parts from Nissan have articles:

• 🔹 Outer CV joint (right/left) — 39300-4M000 or 39300-4M001 (depending on the year of manufacture).
• 🔹 Boot — 39370-4M000 (set of 2 pieces).
• 🔹 Clamps — 39371-4M000 (it is recommended to take it separately, since the original ones often tear during installation).

Among the analogues, the following have proven themselves well:

Brand	Article	Notes	Price, ₽ (2026)
GKN (Loebro)	501560	OEM supplier for Nissan, resource 120+ thousand km	3 200–3 800
SKF	VKJA 6631	High-quality lubricant included, but often counterfeited	2 900–3 500
Febi	28463	Budget option, resource up to 80 thousand km	1 800–2 200
Sasic	2005010	Korean manufacturer, average quality	2 100–2 500

Critical: On Almera Classic B10 with automatic transmission and 1.6 engine (QR25DE), CV joints with 24 splines, and on versions with manual transmission and 1.5 (QG15DE) - with 22 splines. It is impossible to confuse them - the shaft simply will not fall into place.

When purchasing, pay attention to:

• 🔍 Availability of lubrication included (if not included, you will need to purchase Molykote BR2 Plus).
• 🛠️ Boot quality (the original ones are rubber; cheap analogues often crack).
• 📦 Completeness (clamps, retaining rings, hub nut).

Tools for replacing outer CV joint

To work you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (or lift).
• 🔨 Socket heads at 17, 19, 22 and 30 mm (for the hub nut).
• 🔩 Circlip remover And hammer (for dismantling the inner CV joint).
• 🔧 Torque wrench (the hub nut is tightened with a force of 200–220 Nm).
• 🧴 WD-40 or similar cleaner (for rusty bolts).
• 🔥 Gas burner (sometimes a stuck hub nut needs to be heated).

Also prepare:

• 🧤 Rubber gloves (CV joint lubricant is toxic).
• 📦 Plastic bag (to close the open drive shaft).
• 🔧 Clamp pliers (pliers will not work - they will tear the boot).

⚠️ Attention: Do not use an impact wrench to loosen the hub nut! Risk of stripping threads or damaging the bearing. If the nut does not budge, heat it with a burner to 200°C and try again.

Step-by-step replacement of the outer CV joint with Nissan Almera Classic B10

The process takes 2–3 hours (per wheel). Follow the instructions:

1. Preparation. Secure the car on a flat surface, engage 1st gear (or “P” for automatic transmission) and place supports under the rear wheels. Loosen the hub nut before lifting the car (it is tightened with great effort).

2. Removing the wheel. Raise the car with a jack, remove the wheel and unscrew the two mounting bolts ball joint to the steering knuckle (17 mm head).

3. Dismantling the hub. Unscrew the hub nut completely, then carefully knock the hub off the shaft with a hammer through a wooden spacer. Don't hit the shaft itself!

4. Removing the CV joint. Using a pry bar, remove the shaft from the hub, then remove the boot clamps and retaining ring (if equipped). Knock the CV joint off the shaft with a hammer, having previously marked marks for the correct installation of the new one.

When installing a new CV joint:

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Pay special attention to:

• 🔧 Tightening the hub nut (200–220 Nm, without a torque wrench - risk of over-tightening!).
• 🔧 Installation of clamps (they should fit tightly, without distortion).
• 🔧 Checking the play after assembly (rock the wheel in a vertical plane).

What to do if the CV joint is not removed from the shaft?

If the hinge is stuck, use a puller or heat it with a torch. An alternative is to carefully cut the old CV joint with a grinder (only if the shaft is not damaged!).

Frequent mistakes when replacing CV joints

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes that lead to rapid failure of the CV joint:

• 🚫 Using non-original lubricant. Regular Litol-24 not suitable - it cannot withstand high loads. You need specialized lubricant for CV joints (for example, Molykote BR2 Plus).
• 🚫 Damage to boot during installation. The slightest scratch will lead to a rupture after 5-10 thousand km. Lubricate the inside of the boot with talcum powder or silicone grease.
• 🚫 Incorrect tightening of the hub nut. Weak tightening leads to play, excessive tightening leads to bearing destruction. Always use a torque wrench!
• 🚫 Installing a CV joint without a retaining ring. Without it, the hinge will fly off the shaft at the first load.

Another common problem is mixing up the right and left CV joints. On Almera Classic B10 they are visually similar, but have different shaft lengths and bending angles. Refer to the marks made during dismantling.

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the CV joint, be sure to check toe angle. Even if you haven't touched the control arms, removing the hub can change the settings.

Service life and prevention of CV joints

The resource of the outer CV joint is Almera Classic B10 depends on several factors:

• 🚗 Driving style. Sharp starts and turns at maximum angles reduce service life by 2–3 times.
• 🛣️ Quality of roads. Driving off-road or in potholes increases the load on the joint.
• 🔧 Condition of the anthers. Boot rupture = 100% CV joint failure after 1–2 thousand km.
• 🧴 Качество смазки. Cheap analogues “dry out” after 20–30 thousand km, the original one lasts twice as long.

Preventive measures:

• 🔍 Inspect the anthers every 10 thousand km (cracks or lubricant leaks are a signal for replacement).
• 🚿 Wash the wheel arches in winter, salt and reagents corrode the rubber of the anthers.
• 🔧 Check the play drive shafts during each maintenance (even if there is no crunching noise).

Critical: On an Almera Classic B10 with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, it is recommended to change the CV joints in a pair (both outer), even if only one crunches. The second one is most likely also worn out and will soon fail.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about CV joints Nissan Almera Classic B10

Is it possible to drive with a crisp CV joint?

Short-term (1-2 days) - yes, but the risk of wheel locking or gearbox damage increases with every kilometer. At the first sign of a crunch, check the play and condition of the boot. If the CV joint has "fallen apart", the shaft may jam while driving.

How much does it cost to replace a CV joint in a service?

Cost of work in Moscow and regions (2026):

• 🔧 Replacement of one CV joint - 1,500–2,500 ₽.
• 🔧 Replacement of a pair (both external) - 2,500–4,000 ₽.
• 🔧 Replacing the boot without removing the CV joint - 800–1,200 ₽.

The price depends on the complexity (a stuck hub nut increases the cost by 30–50%).

Which CV joint is better - original or analogue?

Original CV joints (Nissan 39300-4M000) last longer, but cost 1.5–2 times more than analogues. The best option in terms of price/quality ratio - GKN (Loebro) or SKF. Budget brands (Febi, Sasic) are suitable for temporary replacement, but their service life rarely exceeds 50 thousand km.

Is it necessary to change the inner CV joint if the outer one creaks?

No, if the inner CV joint does not make noise in a straight line. However, with a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, it is recommended to inspect its boot - if it is torn, it is better to replace both joints at once.

Is it possible to restore the CV joint (wash, rebuild)?

Theoretically yes, but in practice it is impractical. The cost of a new CV joint (GKN) is comparable to the price of a repair kit (balls, cage, boot), and the service life of a repaired joint rarely exceeds 20 thousand km. The exception is collector cars, where original parts are not available.