Nissan Murano Z51 is a popular crossover, but its air conditioning system, especially the compressor clutch, often becomes a source of headaches for owners. If the climate control has stopped blowing cold air, and you hear extraneous clicks under the hood, the problem is most likely in the clutch. This part is responsible for transmitting torque from the engine to the compressor, and its failure leads to complete failure of the air conditioner.

In this article we will understand how the compressor clutch works on Murano Z51, what symptoms indicate its failure, and whether it is possible to repair it yourself. We will analyze typical diagnostic errors, compare original spare parts with analogues, and give step-by-step instructions for replacement. We will pay special attention to the nuances that are not described in standard manuals - for example, why the clutch can “stick” after washing the engine or how frequently turning on the air conditioner in traffic jams affects its service life.

How does the air conditioning compressor clutch work? Nissan Murano Z51

The compressor clutch is an electromagnetic clutch that connects the compressor pulley to its shaft. On Murano Z51 (2015–2021) compressors were installed Denso or Sanden, and the couplings for them had a standard design:

  • 🔄 Drive pulley — rotates constantly, regardless of the operation of the air conditioner, through the belt of auxiliary units.
  • 🧲 Electromagnetic coil - when voltage is applied (12 V), it attracts the pressure disk to the pulley, closing the connection.
  • 🛠️ Pressure disc with friction lining — transmits torque to the compressor shaft.
  • 🔧 Pulley bearing — ensures smooth rotation; its wear is often confused with clutch failure.

On Murano Z51 clutch controlled climate control unit via relay and fuse (usually F37 (10A) in the mounting block). The signal to turn on is received when three conditions are met: the freon pressure is normal, the refrigerant temperature is sufficient for operation, and the cooling mode is turned on in the cabin. If at least one condition is not met, the clutch does not operate, even if it is in working order.

Interesting fact: on Murano with engine VQ35DE (3.5 l) compressor clutch has an increased resource due to a more powerful generator that powers the coil more stably. But on versions with QR25DE (2.5 l) couplings fail more often due to overload in hot climates.

📊 How often do you turn on the air conditioning in your Nissan Murano?
  • Only in summer
  • All year round
  • Only in traffic jams
  • Sometimes or never

Signs of a compressor clutch malfunction: how to distinguish it from other breakdowns

Symptoms of clutch problems are often confused with compressor malfunctions, pressure sensors, or freon leaks. Here are the key signs that the clutch is to blame:

⚠️ Attention: If you hear when you turn on the air conditioner metallic grinding - this is not a clutch, but most likely a jammed pulley bearing. You cannot operate the car in this condition: the belt may break and damage other components.
  • 🔊 Clicking noises under the hood when the air conditioner is turned on (but no cold air flows), the clutch engages, but slips.
  • 🚫 The air conditioner doesn't turn on at allalthough the fan is blowing. At the same time, the clutch relay clicks (checked by ear or with a tester).
  • 🔥 The coupling is heating up (you can touch it with your hand after the trip) - a sign of friction lining wear or wedging.
  • 🔄 The pulley rotates, but the compressor does not build up pressure — the clutch does not block due to a broken coil or lack of power.

To accurately diagnose a clutch, perform a simple test:

  1. Start the engine, turn on the air conditioning to maximum.
  2. Open the hood and look at the compressor pulley: if it rotates, but the central part (shaft) stands still, the clutch does not engage.
  3. Check the voltage at the clutch connector (should be 12 V when the air conditioner is on). If there is no voltage, the problem is in the wiring or relay.

On the Nissan Murano Z51, the compressor clutch often “dies” after 100–120 thousand kilometers due to a design defect: the friction lining wears unevenly, which leads to slipping and overheating. This is especially true for cars operated in cities with frequent traffic jams, where the air conditioning operates in start-stop mode.

How to check a clutch without tools?

Remove the accessory belt and try turning the compressor pulley by hand. If it rotates easily, but does not lock when the air conditioner is on, the clutch is faulty. If it rotates slowly or jams, the problem is in the bearing or the compressor itself.

The main reasons for coupling failure on Murano Z51

On owner forums Nissan Murano It is often discussed why a compressor clutch breaks so quickly. We analyzed typical cases and identified 5 main reasons:

Reason Consequences How to prevent
Natural wear and tear friction lining Slippage, overheating, complete failure Check the condition of the coupling every 80–100 thousand km
Moisture ingress on the reel (for example, after washing the engine) Short circuit, winding break Insulate the coupling connector with silicone grease
Compressor overload due to low freon levels Increased load on the coupling, accelerated wear Monitor the pressure in the system (normal: 2–3 bar at idle)
Poor quality oil in the compressor (for example, PAG-46 instead of PAG-100) Increased friction, shaft jamming Use only original oil ND-OIL 8
Mechanical damage (impacts, corrosion) Deformation of the pressure disk, cracks on the pulley Avoid driving through deep puddles, treat metal with anti-corrosion agent

The problem with moisture is especially insidious: on Murano Z51 The coupling connector is located at the bottom of the compressor, and if you do not wash it carefully, water easily gets inside. This leads to oxidation of contacts and circuit breakage. Services often replace the entire coupling, although it would be enough to clean the connector and treat it contact lubricant (For example, CRC 2-26).

One more nuance: if the clutch starts to “click” after replacing the freon, it’s not her fault, but incorrect filling. Too high pressure in the system causes the compressor to work under overload, and the clutch simply cannot handle it. Optimal pressure for Murano Z51:

  • Low side (suction): 1.5–2.5 bar.
  • High side (discharge): 12–18 bar (depends on the ambient temperature).

💡

If the clutch clicks but does not lock, try tapping it with a wooden screwdriver handle (not metal!). Sometimes this helps to “unstick” a stuck pressure disk. But this is a temporary measure - the clutch still needs to be changed.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the compressor clutch

Replacing the coupling with Nissan Murano Z51 - a task of medium complexity. The service asks for it from 8 to 15 thousand rubles (depending on the region), but if you have the tools you can do it yourself. You will need:

  • 🔧 A set of sockets and keys (necessarily the head on 10 mm And 14 mm).
  • 🔩 Clutch puller (for example, Lisle 58700 or equivalent).
  • 🔌 Voltage tester.
  • 🛠️ Torque wrench (clutch bolt tightening torque - 12–15 Nm).

Sequence of work:

Disconnect the negative battery terminal|Remove the accessory belt|Disconnect the clutch power connector|Secure the compressor pulley (for example, with a screwdriver through the ventilation holes)

-->

  1. Remove the accessory belt by loosening the tension roller (key on 14 mm). On Murano Z51 The belt goes according to the diagram: crankshaft pulley → generator → compressor → power steering pump.

  2. Disconnect the clutch power connector. Check the voltage on it with a tester when the air conditioner is on - if there is 12 V, but the clutch does not work, it definitely needs to be changed.

  3. Block the compressor pulley from turning (you can insert a screwdriver into the technological holes) and unscrew the central bolt of the coupling (head on 10 mm). Attention: the bolt often sticks - do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the pulley!

  4. Using a puller, remove the clutch from the pulley. If there is no puller, you can carefully knock it down with a wooden spacer, but the risk of damaging the bearing increases.

  5. Install the new coupling by tightening the bolt to torque 12–15 Nm. Connect the connector and check the operation of the air conditioner.

Important point: if you change the clutch, be sure to check gap between pulley and pressure plate. On Murano Z51 he must be 0.3–0.5 mm. If the gap is larger, the coupling will slip; if it is smaller, it will jam.

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the clutch be sure to charge the system with freon (even if before that it was normal). When the clutch is removed, some of the refrigerant evaporates, and running the compressor “dry” will lead to it jamming.

Selection of spare parts: original vs analogues

For Nissan Murano Z51 The original compressor clutch goes under the article number 27300-4M000 (for compressors Denso) or 27300-9NM0A (for Sanden). Cost - from 12 to 18 thousand rubles. But there are also high-quality analogues:

Manufacturer Article Price, rub. Features
Denso 6PK0028 8 500–10 000 Complete analogue of the original, high reliability
Gates 34703 6 000–7 500 Good quality, but the resource is 20–30% lower than the original
Four Seasons 58146 5 500–6 800 Budget option, suitable for temporary replacement
Nipparts J1301039 7 000–8 200 Good price/quality ratio, but there are fakes

When choosing a coupling, pay attention to:

  • 🔍 Bearing condition — it should rotate smoothly, without play. On cheap couplings, bearings often “hum” after 20–30 thousand km.
  • 🧲 Coil winding quality — the wires should be in silicone insulation, and not in ordinary plastic.
  • 📏 Friction lining thickness — for the original it is at least 3 mm, for analogues it may be thinner.

If your budget is limited, you can buy clutch repair kit (For example, 27300-4M001 from Nissan), which includes only the pressure plate and pad. But this only makes sense if the coil and bearing are in good condition.

💡

Don't skimp on the compressor clutch! Cheap analogues often fail after 10–15 thousand km, and their replacement requires re-disassembly of the air conditioning system, which is more expensive.

Prevention: how to extend the life of a compressor clutch

Coupling service life Murano Z51 can be increased by 1.5–2 times if you follow simple rules:

  • ⚙️ Check belt tension regularly auxiliary units. A weak belt slips, overheating the pulley, and a too tight belt increases the load on the bearing.
  • 💧 Monitor the freon level. Low pressure causes the compressor to work harder, and the clutch takes on shock loads.
  • 🚿 Avoid high-pressure engine washing. Water entering the clutch coil causes corrosion and short circuits.
  • ❄️ Do not turn the air conditioner to maximum immediately after starting the engine.. Allow the oil in the compressor to warm up for 1-2 minutes.
  • 🔧 Change the compressor oil every 2 years (even if freon was not refilled). Old oil loses its properties and accelerates clutch wear.

Pay special attention winter operation. On Murano Z51 The compressor clutch may “stick” to the pulley if the car sits for a long time without moving. To avoid this:

  1. Once every 2 weeks, start the engine and turn on the air conditioning for 5-10 minutes (even in winter).
  2. Before long-term parking (for example, during vacation), treat the clutch pulley silicone grease.

If you often drive off-road or in high humidity conditions, we recommend installing protective cover to the compressor (for example, from Mishimoto). It will prevent dirt and water from entering the coupling, extending its service life.

Common repair mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with the compressor clutch on Murano Z51. Here are the most common:

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the clutch the air conditioner works, but after a few days it stops blowing cold again - check freon pressure sensor (located on the high pressure pipe). It can give false signals to the climate control unit, disabling the clutch.
  • 🔧 Tightening the coupling bolt - leads to pulley deformation or thread breakage. The tightening torque must not exceed 15 Nm!
  • 🔌 Ignoring voltage check on the coupling connector. If the problem is in the wiring and not in the clutch itself, replacement will not help.
  • 🧹 Uncleaned connector contacts - oxidation or dirt can cause problems even with a new clutch.
  • 🛠️ Using a percussion instrument to remove the coupling. This often leads to cracks in the pulley.
  • ❄️ Filling with the wrong oil to the compressor. For example, PAG-46 instead of PAG-100 impairs clutch lubrication.

Another common mistake is misdiagnosis. For example, if the clutch does not work, many people immediately blame it, although the problem may be:

  • burnt out fuse (F37);
  • faulty clutch relay (located in the mounting block under the hood);
  • broken wire between the climate control unit and the coupling;
  • faulty evaporator temperature sensor.

Before changing the clutch, be sure to check these elements. To do this:

  1. Remove the connector from the coupling and apply it to it 12 V directly from the battery. If it works, the problem is in the control circuit.
  2. Use a tester to check the wire from the coupling to the relay and the climate control unit for a break.
How to check the clutch relay?

Remove the relay from the mounting block (usually it is labeled A/C Clutch). Submit to contacts 85 and 86 12 V - you should hear a click. If not, the relay is faulty. Also check the resistance between 87 and 30 - must be 50–120 Ohm.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to drive with a faulty compressor clutch?

Technically possible, but not advisable. If the clutch does not engage, the compressor does not work, and the risk of it seizing is minimal. However:

  • Without lubrication (which is provided by the circulation of freon), the compressor seals wear out faster.
  • Moisture may accumulate in the system, which will lead to corrosion of the pipes and radiator of the air conditioner.
  • If the clutch is turned on abruptly (if it periodically “grabs”), the auxiliary belt may break.

We recommend turning off the power to the clutch (remove the fuse F37) and start repairs as soon as possible.

How much does it cost to replace a clutch at a service center?

The cost depends on the region and level of service:

  • Moscow/St. Petersburg: 12,000–18,000 rub. (with spare part).
  • Regions: 8,000–12,000 rub.
  • Official dealer: 20,000–25,000 rub. (with diagnostics).

You can save money by purchasing a spare part yourself (original or high-quality analogue) and providing it to a specialist.

What is the difference between the clutch for Denso and Sanden compressors?

On Murano Z51 Compressors of both brands were installed. Their couplings not interchangeable:

Parameter Denso Sanden
Original article number 27300-4M000 27300-9NM0A
Pulley diameter 110 mm 120 mm
Bearing type Closed (unattended) Open (can be lubricated)
Coil resistance 3.2–3.8 Ohm 3.8–4.2 Ohm

To determine which compressor is on your Murano, look at the sign on it: Denso it's green in color Sanden - blue.

Can the clutch be repaired or is it just a replacement?

In most cases, the coupling is only repaired temporarily. Possible options:

  • Replacing the friction lining - if only it is worn out, but the coil and bearing are in good condition.
  • Cleaning contacts - if the problem is oxidation of the connector.
  • Bearing replacement - if it plays or buzzes.

However rewind reel or replacing the pressure plate is often not justified - a new clutch does not cost much more than a repair kit, and its service life will be longer.

Why does the air conditioner blow warm air after replacing the clutch?

There may be several reasons:

  • Air has entered the system - you need to vacuumize and refill the freon.
  • Defective thermostatic valve (TRV) — check the temperature of the tubes: if one is icy and the other is hot, the expansion valve is jammed.
  • Got clogged filter drier - requires replacement.
  • The coupling connector is connected incorrectly - check the polarity.

The most common mistake is low freon charge. On Murano Z51 standard volume: 550 ± 25 g for R134a or 450 ± 25 g for R1234yf (on models after 2018).