Disassembling the ASUS charger: instructions with photos and repair tips

Laptop charger ASUS is a complex electronic device that can fail over time. Most often, problems arise due to overheating, mechanical damage or power surges. If your power supply stops working, do not rush to throw it away: in 60% of cases, the fault can be fixed on your own after disassembly and diagnostics.

In this article we will look in detail at how to properly open the charger. ASUS (including popular models ADP-65JH BB, ADP-90YD B, ADP-120DH BB and others) without damaging the internal components. You will learn what tools you will need, how to avoid common mistakes and what to do if the unit does not turn on after disassembly. Important: Working with electronics requires caution - incorrect actions can lead to electric shock or permanent damage to the device.

Preparing for Disassembly: Tools and Safety Precautions

Before you begin disassembling, make sure you have everything you need. Most power supplies ASUS are fastened with rivets or special latches, so a regular screwdriver may not be enough. Here is the full list of tools:

• 🔧 Thin flathead screwdriver (preferably with a magnetic tip) - for prying off the case.
• 🔨 Knife or scalpel — for neat cutting of the sealant (if the body is glued).
• 🔧 Phillips screwdriver (size PH0 or PH1) - for screws inside the block.
• 🔍 Magnifier or USB microscope - to inspect small parts of the board.
• 📸 Smartphone — to photograph the disassembly process (useful during assembly).
• 🧲 Magnetic mat - so as not to lose small screws and parts.

Also prepare your workplace: the table should be clean, without unnecessary objects. Never disassemble the power supply on a carpet or soft surface - static electricity can damage the chips. If you are working on a unit that has recently been plugged in, allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes - some elements (such as capacitors) may retain a charge.

⚠️ Attention: If the power supply case is swollen or has traces of melting, disassembling it yourself is dangerous! In such cases, there is a high risk of short circuit or even fire. It is better to contact a service center.

Determining the power supply model and its design

Chargers ASUS differ in power, connectors and internal design. To properly disassemble a block, first determine its model. Usually it is indicated on the sticker on the back in the format ADP-XXYY ZZ, where:

• XX - power in watts (for example, 65 or 90).
• YY — model serial number.
• ZZ - revision (for example, BB, B).

The most common models:

Model	Power	Housing type	Disassembly Features
ADP-65JH BB	65 W	Plastic, glued	Requires a knife to separate the halves
ADP-90YD B	90 W	Metal, with rivets	You need to drill out rivets or use a vice
ADP-120DH BB	120 W	Combined (plastic + metal)	Complex latching system, requires care
ADP-45UD B	45 W	Plastic, with screws	Easiest to understand

If your model is not listed in the table, look for its characteristics on the official website ASUS or on the block sticker. Please note the connector type: some chargers (for example, for a line ROG) have non-standard connectors that are easily damaged during careless disassembly.

Step-by-step instructions: how to disassemble an ASUS power supply

Now let's move on to the process itself. Below are universal instructions suitable for most models. If your unit has a specific design (for example, a metal housing), you will find additional recommendations in the next section.

Step 1: Removing the top cover.

• 🔍 Inspect the case for screws. If there are any (usually under rubber feet or stickers), unscrew them.
• 🔧 Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the seam between the body halves and carefully pry it off. Start in the corner where there is no connector.
• 🔨 If the body is glued, run a knife along the seam, cutting the sealant. Do not use too much force - the plastic may crack.

Step 2: Disconnecting internal fasteners.

After removing the cover, you will see the circuit board screwed to the bottom of the case. It is usually secured with 3–5 screws. Unscrew them and carefully lift the board. Don't pull the wires! - they can be soldered to the board.

Step 3. Inspection and diagnosis.

Now you can inspect the board for visible damage:

• 🔥 Swollen capacitors - the main sign of a malfunction.
• 🔌 Darkened or burnt paths - indicate a short circuit.
• 🕳️ Cracks on the board - can disrupt power supply circuits.

⚠️ Attention: If you see black spots or a burning smell, do not plug in the unit! These are signs of serious damage and attempted use may result in a fire.

What should I do if the board does not disconnect?

Sometimes the board is glued to the case with thermal paste. In this case, carefully pry it off along the edges with a thin screwdriver, heating it with a hairdryer (not higher than 60°C) to soften the glue.

Features of disassembling metal cases (ADP-90YD, ADP-120DH)

Power supplies with a metal housing (for example, ADP-90YD B or ADP-120DH BB) are more difficult to disassemble due to rivets. There are two options here:

1. Without destroying rivets (recommended):
   • Use a vise to gently press the body along the seam.
   • Insert a flathead screwdriver between the halves and slowly push them apart.
2. With drilling rivets (if the other method does not work):
   • Mark the location of the rivets with a marker.
   • Using a drill with a diameter of 2–3 mm, carefully drill them out.
   • When reassembling, replace the rivets with M3 screws with nuts.

Metal cases often have additional heat-sinking paste between the board and the walls. When disassembling it must be removed with alcohol or a special cleaner, and when reassembling it must be reapplied (for example, KPT-8 or Arctic MX-4).

Important: If you are drilling out rivets, do it at low speed to avoid damaging the board. Metal shavings falling on components can cause a short circuit.

Fault diagnosis: what to look for on the board?

After disassembly, it's time to carry out visual and instrumental diagnostics. Here are the most common power supply failures ASUS and their signs:

Malfunction	External signs	How to check	Possible repairs
Swollen capacitors	The top of the capacitor is bulging or leaking	Visually or with a multimeter (capacity check)	Replacement with new ones with the same capacity and voltage
Broken diode bridge	Black dots or cracks on diodes	Continuity test with a multimeter in diode mode	Replacing a diode bridge or individual diodes
Broken track	Darkening or tear on the board	Testing the circuit with a multimeter	Restoring a track using wire or soldering
Faulty transformer	Cracking noise during operation, overheating	Checking winding resistance	Replacing a transformer (difficult, often impractical)

To check the elements you will need a multimeter. Here's how to use it:

• 🔋 Capacitors: in capacitance (if any) or resistance measurement mode (should be high, then fall).
• 🔄 Diodes: in diode testing mode (forward resistance ~0.5–0.7 V, reverse resistance - infinity).
• 🔁 Transistors/chips: check the resistance between the legs (should match the datasheet).

If you are not confident in your soldering skills, it is better to contact a specialist. For example, replacing SMD components (small parts on a board) requires experience and special equipment (soldering station, flux, solder).

Assembling the power supply after repair

After troubleshooting, the unit must be reassembled correctly for it to operate safely. Follow these guidelines:

1. Insulation check: Make sure that no wires or components are touching the chassis (especially important for metal units).
2. Securing the board: All screws must be tightened, but not overtightened, otherwise the board may crack.
3. Housing sealing: if the case has been glued, use heat-resistant glue (for example, Loctite 406) for gluing halves.
4. Test activation: Before complete assembly, connect the unit to the network for 1-2 seconds (without a laptop!) and check whether it sparks or heats up excessively.

If you drilled out the rivets, replace them with screws and nuts or use a rivet gun to install new ones. Do not leave the housing unsecured - this can lead to a short circuit due to vibration.

⚠️ Attention: After assembly, do not connect the unit to the laptop immediately! First, check the output voltage with a multimeter - it should match that indicated on the case (for example, 19V ± 5%). If the voltage is very different, it means the repair was carried out incorrectly.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling power supplies. Here are the most common ones and how to prevent them:

• 🔌 Damage to the wire during disassembly. Solution: Before disassembling, take a photo of how the wires are attached to the board and carefully unsolder them.
• 🔥 Ignoring swollen capacitors. Solution: Replace any capacitors that show signs of failure, even if they are still working.
• 🔧 Lost screws or rivets. Solution: Use a magnetic mat and store parts in separate containers.
• 📉 Incorrect soldering. Solution: Use fluxed solder and do not overheat the board (maximum 350°C).
• ⚡ Checking the unit without load. Solution: Before full use, connect the unit to a laptop or load resistor.

Another common mistake is using inappropriate spare parts. For example, if you are replacing a capacitor, its capacitance and voltage should be not lowerthan the original one. The same goes for transistors and diodes: install components with the same parameters as in the datasheet.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to disassemble the ASUS power supply without special tools?

Theoretically yes, but it's risky. For example, for plastic cases you can use a knife and a screwdriver, but there is a high chance of damaging the latches. For metal cases, it is almost impossible to do without a drill or vice. If you don't have the tools, it's better to contact the service.

What should I do if the unit does not turn on after disassembling?

First check:

1. Correct assembly (all wires are connected, the board is not shorted to the case).
2. Availability of power at the input (ring the network cable).
3. Integrity of the fuse (usually it is located next to the power connector).

If everything is in order, but the unit does not work, the controller chip may be damaged - in this case, repair may not be cost-effective.

How to check the power supply without a laptop?

You can use a load resistor (eg 10 Ohm, 10 W) or a 12-24V light bulb. Connect the load to the output contacts of the block and measure the voltage with a multimeter. If it is within the normal range (for example, 18–20V for a 19V block), the unit is working.

Is it worth repairing the power supply yourself if it is under warranty?

No. Disassembling the power supply will void the warranty ASUS. If the device is under warranty, contact an official service center. Self-repair is only advisable for units that are older than 2-3 years or if the warranty has already expired.

Where to buy spare parts for repairs?

Accessories can be found:

• On AliExpress (cheap, but long wait).
• In radio electronics stores (Chipdip, Sycamore).
• On message boards (Avito, Yula - often sell used blocks for spare parts).
• In service centers (sometimes they sell parts from non-repairable devices).

When purchasing, check the parameters of the parts (for example, for capacitors - capacity, voltage and size).