Have you encountered a problem when the screw slot on the laptop case or motherboard has become “slipped” and the screwdriver turns without clinging to the head? This situation is familiar to many who have tried to figure out Lenovo ThinkPad, Dell XPS or HP Pavilion after a long service life. Licked screws are a common headache when repairing equipment, but they can be solved. In this article we will analyze 7 working methods, how to unscrew such a screw without damaging the case or board, including improvised means and professional tools.

The main rule: do not use excessive force. More than 80% of damage to the board during self-repair occurs due to attempts to unscrew the screw “forcibly” - this leads to the head being torn off or the tracks underneath it being damaged. We will tell you how to act carefully, even if you don’t have a specialized tool at hand.

Why screws “lick” and how to avoid it

The main cause of the problem is screwdriver and slot mismatch. Laptop manufacturers (especially Apple And ASUS ROG) screws with non-standard heads are often used: Torx Security (TR6-TR10), Pentalobe or Tri-Wing. If you try to unscrew them with a regular Phillips screwdriver, the metal of the slot will deform in a few turns.

Other common reasons:

  • 🔧 Tool wear: A dull or deformed screwdriver “smears” the metal of the head.
  • 💦 Corrosion: oxidation of screws in laptops that have been in high humidity conditions (for example, MSI Gaming after spilled coffee).
  • 🔥 Overheating: thermal paste that gets on the threads can “stick” the screw to the housing.
  • ⚙️ Factory defect: cheap screws in budget models (Acer Aspire, Lenovo IdeaPad) are often made of soft metal.

To prevent the problem in the future, use:

  • 🛠️ Magnetic screwdrivers with a precisely selected size (for example, a set iFixit Pro Tech for electronics).
  • 🧴 Lubricant: drop WD-40 or alcohol before unscrewing reduces friction.
  • ⏱️ Gradual effort: Do not press on the screwdriver - it is better to make short jerks counterclockwise.
⚠️ Attention: Never use superglue or epoxy resin for fixing the screwdriver in the slot! These substances can get on the board and cause a short circuit. Suitable for temporary fixation only hot melt adhesive (for example, from a glue gun).

Method 1: Rubber band or medical tape

The most accessible method that works in 60% of cases for screws with a partially retained slot. You will need:

  • 🩹 Rubber band (for example, from a postal parcel) or adhesive plaster 1–2 cm wide.
  • 🔧 A strong screwdriver with a flat or Phillips tip (depending on the type of screw).

Step by step instructions:

  1. Place a piece of tape on the head of the screw, pressing it firmly against the slot.
  2. Place a screwdriver and press it firmly into the rubber - this will create additional grip.
  3. Turn counterclockwise in small jerks, pressing the screwdriver down.

If the screw does not budge, try heat up with a hairdryer (temperature 60–80°C) for 10–15 seconds - this will expand the metal and weaken the “sticking”.

Make sure the screw does not rotate idle (check for stripped threads)

Use new tape - the old one may break

The screwdriver should have no play in the handle

Do not apply force at an angle, only strictly perpendicular-->

Method 2: Extractor for licked screws

A professional tool that is worth purchasing if you often repair equipment. The extractor is cone drill with reverse thread. Working principle:

  1. Drill a small hole (1–2 mm in diameter) in the center of the licked screw.
  2. Insert the extractor and rotate it counterclockwise - the thread will “bite” into the metal and pull out the screw.

Suitable extractor models:

Model Screw diameter Price, rub. Features
IRWIN Han-Sert M2–M6 800–1200 Suitable for laptops and phones
Bondhus ProHold #00–#3 1500–2000 Magnetic tip
Wiha Screwdriver Set M1.6–M4 2500–3000 Includes 5 extractors
⚠️ Attention: When working with an extractor do not use the drill at high speeds - this may damage the printed circuit board. It is better to rotate the tool manually or at minimum speed (up to 300 rpm).

Screwdriver included with laptop|iFixit kit|Screw extractor|Handy tools|None of the above-->

Method 3: Soldering iron + solder (for screws on the board)

If the licked screw is on motherboard (for example, mounting a cooler in MacBook Pro), you can use a soldering iron. The method is only suitable for experienced users!

Algorithm of actions:

  1. Apply a drop to the screw head solder (tin-lead alloy).
  2. While the solder is hot, apply a screwdriver and allow the metal to harden.
  3. Carefully remove the screw. Repeat the process if necessary.

The advantage of the method: solder fills microcracks in the spline, restoring adhesion. However, there are risks:

  • 🔥 Overheating of the board (especially dangerous for chips VRM or BIOS).
  • 💥 Short circuit if solder gets on the contacts.
What to do if the solder doesn't stick?

If the solder is rolling off the screw head, try:

1. Clean the surface with alcohol or acetone.

2. Use flux (for example, RMA-223).

3. Increase the temperature of the soldering iron to 350–400°C (but not higher!).

Method 4: Drill + left tap

An extreme method that is used if the screw cannot be removed by other methods. You will need:

  • 🔨 Drill with a thin drill bit (1–1.5 mm).
  • 🔧 Left marker (for example, M2×0.4 for laptops).

Technology:

  1. Drill a hole in the screw in the center (depth no more than 2/3 of the length of the screw!).
  2. Insert the left tap and rotate it counterclockwise - it will “crash” into the metal and pull out the screw.

The method is effective for screws with stripped heads, but requires precision. Errors are fraught with:

  • 🔧 Damage to the threads in the laptop case.
  • 💥 We will break the board if the drill slips.
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Tape the area around the screw before drilling masking tape - this will protect the case from scratches and retain metal shavings.

Method 5: Moment glue + nut

A non-standard but working method for protruding head screws. You will need:

  • 🔩 Suitable size nut (e.g. M2.5 for most laptops).
  • 🧴Glue "Moment Super" or Loctite 401 (cyanoacrylate).

How to act:

  1. Apply a bead of glue to the nut and press it firmly against the head of the screw.
  2. Wait 10–15 minutes (curing time).
  3. Use a wrench to remove the screw through the nut.

After removing the screw, remove any remaining adhesive with acetone. The method is not suitable for screws recessed into the housing.

Method 6: Pliers or clamp (for large screws)

If the screw has hex or square head (for example, mounting a hard drive in Dell Latitude), you can try to grab it with pliers. Technology:

  1. Clamp the screw head with pliers with rubber pads (so as not to damage the case).
  2. Turn counterclockwise, gradually increasing the force.

For small screws use miniature clamps (For example, Knipex Pliers Wrench). The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to break the thread.

Method 7: Rust solvent (for oxidized screws)

If the screw has become stuck due to corrosion (important for laptops after exposure to liquid), use penetrating lubricant:

  • 💧 WD-40 Specialist (with a tube for precise application).
  • 💧 Liquid Wrench (penetrates deeper than standard WD-40).
  • 💧 Acetic acid (70% solution) - for emergencies.

Instructions:

  1. Apply the product to the screw and wait 10-30 minutes.
  2. Tap the screw head plastic hammer (this will break the oxide film).
  3. Try removing the screw using one of the methods described above.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use brake fluid or kerosene — these substances can damage the plastic parts of the case and the insulation of the wires!
💡

For screws on aluminum housings (e.g. MacBook Air) Avoid aggressive solvents - they cause darkening of the metal. Use only specialized silicone-based products.

What to do if nothing helps?

If all methods have been exhausted, and the screw does not yield, radical measures remain:

  • 🔪 Cut off the screw head Dremel (if it is not needed for further assembly).
  • 🔥 Unsolder the screw together with the board (experience with a soldering station is required).
  • 🛠️ Contact a service center (for example, "Apple Service Center" or "Laptop Service"), where ultrasonic baths are used to remove screws.

The cost of professional removal of a licked screw in a service: from 500 to 2000 rubles (depending on the laptop model and the location of the screw).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about licked screws

Is it possible to use a screwdriver instead of a screwdriver to remove screws on a laptop?

No! The screwdriver creates too much force and is almost guaranteed to strip the spline or screw head. The exception is specialized tools with limited torque (for example, Bosch IXO at minimum speed).

How are the screws on Apple laptops different from others?

Apple uses screws Pentalobe (5 rays) And Tri-Wingthat cannot be unscrewed with standard screwdrivers. They require specialized bits (for example, iFixit Pentalobe P5). These screws tend to slip off more often due to the soft alloy.

How to prevent screws from slipping when assembling a laptop?

Use torque screwdriver with torque limitation (for example, Wera Kraftform), lubricate the threads graphite lubricant and do not use excessive force. For screws on the board, a force of 0.5–1 Nm is sufficient.

Is it possible to restore the thread after removing a licked screw?

Yes, if the threads in the housing are not damaged. Use tap appropriate size (eg M2×0.4 for most laptops). If the threads are stripped, you will need a bushing insert (helicoil).

Which laptops most often suffer from licked screws?

According to statistics from service centers, the leaders in problems with screws are:

  1. MacBook Pro/Air (screws Pentalobe + aluminum body).
  2. ASUS ROG Zephyrus (small cooler screws).
  3. Lenovo Legion (screws with a coating prone to oxidation).
  4. Acer Predator (cheap screws in budget models).