How to unscrew a small bolt with torn edges in a laptop: step-by-step guide

A small bolt with torn edges in a laptop is like a bone stuck in the throat: it interferes, irritates, and it seems that you cannot do without radical measures. It’s especially annoying when this happens during a repair or upgrade - for example, when replacing SSD, cleaning the cooling system or restoring the power connector. In such a situation, the main thing is not to panic and not to grab the pliers: 90% of damage to cases and motherboards occurs precisely because of impatient attempts to “rip out” the screw by force.

In this article we will look at 7 proven methods remove the problematic bolt - from the most gentle (using improvised means) to “heavy artillery” for advanced cases. You will learn which tools actually work and which will only make the problem worse, how to prepare your workspace so as not to lose small parts, and why you absolutely cannot use superglue to fix a screwdriver in torn edges (spoiler: this will lead to glue flowing onto the board). All methods are tested on laptops Lenovo ThinkPad, Dell XPS, HP Pavilion And ASUS ROG - taking into account the characteristics of their cases and types of screws.

Why do edges on bolts break off: 3 main reasons

Before moving on to solutions, it is important to understand why the problem occurred. In 80% of cases, it is not a manufacturing defect that is to blame, but errors when working with fasteners. Here are the three most common scenarios:

• 🔧 Unsuitable tool: Using the wrong size or type of screwdriver (e.g. Phillips instead of Torx T5), which leads to slipping and “licking” of the edges.
• 💪 Excessive force: many users intuitively press the screwdriver like a wrench, not taking into account that the screws in laptops are designed for a minimum tightening torque (usually 0.5–1.5 Nm).
• 🔋 Corrosion or oxidation: in old laptops or after liquid gets in, the screws “stick” to the threads, and an attempt to unscrew them leads to the edges breaking off.

Interesting fact: in laptops Apple MacBook (especially models before 2015) screws with pentalobe (five-point head), which are difficult to unscrew with standard screwdrivers. This was done intentionally - to make independent repairs more difficult. In such cases, the risk of tearing off the edges is 3 times higher.

⚠️ Attention: if the screw is located next to the power connector or SATA/M.2, do not try to unscrew it until you disconnect the battery! A short circuit when a metal tool comes into contact with the board can damage the south bridge.

Preparing the workplace: what needs to be done before starting work

The first rule for successfully removing a broken bolt is: organization of space. Chaos on the table leads to the loss of small parts (such as spring washers) or damage to the board from static electricity. Here is the preparation checklist:

Clear the table of foreign objects|Place an antistatic mat or at least a sheet of paper|Prepare containers for screws (for example, a magnetic plate)|Unplug the laptop and remove the battery (if possible)|Prepare bright lighting (preferably an LED lamp with a magnifying glass)-->

Pay special attention magnetic surfaces. If you don't have a professional magnetic screw tray, you can use a jar lid with a magnet from an old hard drive. This will prevent small parts from rolling off. Also prepare:

• 🧲 Magnetic tweezers - for removing screws from hard-to-reach places.
• 🔦 Flashlight with a narrow beam - to illuminate the work area from an angle.
• 📸 Smartphone for photo recording — take a photo of the location of the screws before removing them so as not to mix them up during assembly.

Magnetic Tip Screwdriver Set|Tweezers and Magnifier|Standard Screwdriver Only|None of the Above-->

Method 1: Rubber band or eraser - the gentlest method

If the edges are not severely torn off (the screwdriver slips, but still “sticks”), try increasing the grip using rubber band or a school eraser. This method works in 60% of cases and does not require special tools.

Here are the step-by-step instructions:

1. Take a flathead screwdriver of the appropriate size (it should fit snugly into the slot, even if the edges are torn off).
2. Stick it on the blade of a screwdriver 2–3 layers of wide rubber band (for example, from a postal envelope) or a piece of eraser. The tape should protrude beyond the edges of the tip by 1–2 mm.
3. Press the screwdriver firmly against the screw and try to unscrew it. in short jerks counterclockwise (don't press too hard!).
4. If the screw does not budge, add another layer of tape or wet it isopropyl alcohol for better grip.

This method is especially effective for Phillips head screws (Phillips #00 or #0), which are often used in laptops Acer And MSI. For screws Torx It is better to use an eraser - its soft structure fills the voids of the torn edges.

⚠️ Attention: do not use for this method adhesive tape (scotch tape)! It leaves sticky residues that are then difficult to remove from the board, and can get on the contacts.

Method 2: Extractor for stripped screws - professional solution

If the rubber band doesn't help, it's time to move on to specialized tools. Extractor for stripped screws (or "screw puller") is a metal cone with a reverse thread that screws into a damaged bolt and allows it to be removed. Such a tool is inexpensive (from 200 rubles) and is sold in any tool store.

Work algorithm:

1. Select the extractor size: it should be slightly narrower than the diameter of the screw head.
2. Place the extractor in the center of the stripped bolt and with a light hammer (or the back of a screwdriver) drive it 1-2 mm deep.
3. Start screwing in the extractor clockwise (for left-hand thread - against). It should “bite” into the metal of the screw.
4. When the extractor locks into place, continue to rotate it in the same direction - it will remove the bolt along with it.

Important: extractors are available for right And left threads. Laptops typically use right-handed threads, but some models Lenovo Yoga And HP Spectre You may find screws with left-hand threads (they are marked with an arrow on the head). If the extractor does not screw in, try changing the direction.

Extractor type	Screw diameter(mm)	Suitable for laptops	Notes
Conical (spiral)	2–4	Most models	Versatile, but requires care
Petal	1.5–3	MacBook Air, Dell XPS 13	Good for very small screws
With left-hand thread	3–5	Lenovo ThinkPad, HP EliteBook	Use only if you are sure of the thread type

What to do if the extractor breaks inside the screw?

If the tip of the extractor breaks off inside the bolt, do not try to drill it out! Take thin tip soldering iron and heat the broken area for 10–15 seconds. The solder on the extractor tip will melt and can be removed with tweezers. After this, repeat the procedure with a new extractor.

Method 3: Soldering iron + solder - for screws in metal cases

This method is suitable for laptops with metal body (For example, MacBook Pro, Dell Latitude or HP ZBook), where screws are screwed into an aluminum or magnesium frame. The point is to use solder to “weld” the screwdriver to the torn head.

Step by step instructions:

1. Take powerful soldering iron (at least 60 W) with a thin tip and tin-lead solder (For example, POS-61).
2. Clean the screw head from dirt and oxides using isopropyl alcohol.
3. Place the tip of the screwdriver on the screw and apply a small amount of solder to the contact area. Let it cool for 20-30 seconds.
4. Carefully, without jerking, try to unscrew the screw. The solder will create a strong connection between the screwdriver and the metal.

The advantage of this method is that it does not damage the threads in the housing. However, there are also risks:

• 🔥 Possibility of overheating of nearby components (especially dangerous for capacitors near the propeller).
• 🧲 Solder can get on the board if the screw is located close to the chips.

⚠️ Attention: Never use this method for screws in plastic cases (For example, ASUS Vivobook or Acer Swift)! The plastic melts at a temperature of 150–200°C, and the soldering iron heats up to 300–400°C. This will lead to deformation of the case and possible damage to the board.

Method 4: Drill + left drill - last resort

If all the previous methods did not work, all that remains is mechanical drilling. This is the most risky method, since there is a chance of damaging the threads in the case or the board under the screw. Use it only if:

• 🔧 The screw is not critical for the design (for example, fastening the keyboard, not the motherboard).
• 🔄 You have a spare screw of the same size for replacement.
• 🛠️ You are confident in your drill skills.

Instructions:

1. Take drill with speed control And thin drill (diameter 0.5–1 mm smaller than the screw head).
2. Set the drill to minimum speed (no more than 500 rpm) and carefully drill a hole in the center of the screw to a depth of 1-2 mm.
3. Insert into hole left drill (with reverse thread) and start rotating the drill slowly counterclockwise. The drill should “bite” into the metal and unscrew the screw.

If the left drill doesn't help, you can try destroy the screw:

4. Drill the hole all the way through (but no deeper than the length of the screw!).
5. Use thin center punch or a nail to split the remaining screws and remove them with tweezers.

After drilling, be sure to wash the work area with alcoholto remove metal shavings. It can cause a short circuit if it gets on the board.

Method 5: Alternative tools - what to use in a pinch

If you don’t have specialized tools at hand, you can try to make do with improvised means. Here's what really works (and what doesn't):

Tool	Efficiency	Risks	When to use
Toothbrush + superglue	❌ Low	Glue will get on the board and damage the contacts.	Never!
Fine-nose pliers	⚠️ Average	Will damage the screw head and may strip the thread.	Only for screws on the case, not on the board
Metal scissors	✅ High	May scratch the body	For protruding head screws
Sewing needle + soldering iron	✅✅ Very high	Requires caution	For microscopic screws (e.g. in MacBook)

The most unexpected but working life hack is to use toothpicks and Moment Gel glue (not superglue!):

1. Dip the tip of a toothpick into the glue and insert it into the center of the screw.
2. Let the glue cure for 10-15 minutes (do not blow on it as this will loosen the connection!).
3. Gently twist the toothpick counterclockwise. The glue will create enough grip to turn the screw.

This method is suitable for screws up to 3 mm in diameter that are not subject to high loads (e.g. fastening Wi-Fi module or webcams).

What to do after removing a broken screw: thread restoration

Removing the screw is only half the battle. Now you need restore threadso that the new screw holds securely. Here's what you can do:

• 🔧 Thread tap: If the body threads are damaged, use a tap of the same diameter to repair them. Tool stores sell sets of screw taps M2, M2.5 And M3 - the most common in laptops.
• 🧲 Oversized screw: if the thread is completely stripped, you can take a screw 0.5 mm thicker (for example, instead of M2.5 use M3) and cut a new thread. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to split the plastic case.
• 🔄 Insert nut (helicoil): for metal cases can be installed helicoyl - a spiral insert that restores the thread. This is a professional solution, but requires skill.

If the screw was securing an important component (for example, cooler or motherboard), after replacement, check:

• 🔌 Connector contact: Make sure the board fits snugly against the case (especially important for SATA And M.2).
• 🌡️ Temperature: run a stress test (eg AIDA64) and check whether the components are overheating due to a loose cooler.

⚠️ Attention: if you restored the thread in aluminum housing (as in MacBook), do not tighten the new screw with force! Aluminum is soft and may not withstand stress. It is better to use a screw with nylon insert (they are sold in electronics stores).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about broken screws in laptops

Can I use WD-40 to remove a stuck screw?

No! WD-40 is not intended for use on electronics. Its vapors can damage plastic parts and contacts on the board. Instead use:

• 💧 Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) — dissolves oxides and evaporates quickly.
• 🧴 Silicone grease (For example, CRC 2-26) - does not conduct current and is safe for electronics.

Apply the product to the screw, wait 5-10 minutes, then try to unscrew it.

What to do if the screw breaks and a part remains inside the thread?

If the head of the screw breaks off, but the rod remains in the hole:

1. Try it drill out the remains with a thin drill (as described in Method 4).
2. If the screw is steel and the body is aluminum, you can carefully squander hole and cut a new thread.
3. As a last resort, use glue "Loctite" (not superglue!) to secure the new screw.

If the screw was part of the board's mounting, once removed, check the integrity of the tracks around the hole using a magnifying glass.

How to avoid breaking edges when assembling a laptop?

To avoid the problem again:

• 🔧 Use magnetic screwdrivers with exactly matching blade (e.g. for screws Torx T5 take it exactly T5, not T6).
• 🔄Tighten the screws criss-cross, and not in a circle - this distributes the pressure evenly.
• 🛠️ Do not use a screwdriver - only hand screwdrivers with a torque limiter (or torque).
• 🧴 Apply to screw threads before assembly antifriction paste (For example, Molykote) to prevent oxidation.

How much does a service repair cost if you can’t unscrew the screw yourself?

The cost depends on the complexity:

• 💰 Simple screw on the case: 300–800 rubles.
• 💰 Screw on motherboard: 1000–2500 rubles (includes checking the board after removal).
• 💰 Thread restoration: 500–1500 rubles (depending on the method).
• 💰 Emergency repairs (if the screw blocks the laptop from turning on): 3000–5000 rubles.

In services Apple And Dell the price may be 30–50% higher due to the use of original screws.

Is it possible to use a metal self-tapping screw instead of a stripped screw?

Absolutely not! Self-tapping screws have a sharp tip and a more aggressive thread, which:

• 🔧 Will damage existing threads in the housing.
• 💥 May crack the plastic case or break off part of the metal frame.
• 🔌 Will cause a short circuit if it pierces the board (especially dangerous for laptops with a metal case).

Use only original screws or equivalents with the same head and length. For temporary fixation, you can take a screw from nylon insert (they are softer and do not damage the thread).