Where is the fuel pump relay located in Nissan Tiida: photos, diagrams and testing instructions

If your Nissan Tiida (in bodies J31 or J32) suddenly stopped starting, and the starter turns, but the engine does not catch - the problem may lie in the fuel pump relay. This small but critical element is responsible for supplying voltage to the fuel pump, and its failure results in a lack of pressure in the system. Unlike a fuse, which can be visually inspected, a relay requires a more thorough inspection.

In this article you will find exact relay layout diagrams for all generations Tiida (including restyled versions), signs of its malfunction, as well as step-by-step diagnostic instructions using a multimeter. We will also analyze common mistakes during replacement and give recommendations on choosing analogues if the original relay fails.

Location of the fuel pump relay in Nissan Tiida: photos and diagrams

B Nissan Tiida The fuel pump relay is in fuse and relay mounting block, which is located inside the car. The specific location depends on the year of manufacture and configuration:

• 📍 Tiida J31 (2004–2010): unit under the glove compartment, on the passenger side. The fuel pump relay is marked as FUEL PUMP RELAY and is marked #27 (on the block cover).
• 📍 Tiida J32 (2010–2019): the block is moved closer to the center console, under the decorative panel. The relay is marked as EFI RELAY (labeling #18).
• 📍 Restyled versions (2013+): in some modifications the relay is moved to an additional unit behind the glove box (removal of the glove compartment is required).

To get to the block, follow these steps:

1. Open the passenger door and move the seat as far back as possible.
2. Use a screwdriver or flat plastic spatula to pry off the cover of the mounting block (it is secured with two latches).
3. On the inside of the cover there is a diagram with the designations of relays and fuses. Find the inscription FUEL PUMP or EFI.

If there is no diagram on the block cover (or it has been erased), refer to relay color: in Tiida it is usually black or dark gray, with markings 21500-JA00A (original number). For clarity, below is a table with the location for different years:

Year of manufacture	Body	Relay location	Marking on the block	Catalog number
2004–2007	J31	Block under the glove compartment	#27 (FUEL PUMP)	21500-JA00A
2008–2010	J31 (restyle)	Block under the glove compartment	#27 or #18	21500-JA00B
2010–2013	J32	Center console block	#18 (EFI RELAY)	21500-4M00A
2014–2019	J32 (restyle)	Additional block behind the glove compartment	#18 or #30	21500-4M01A

Important: some versions of Tiida with engine HR16DE The fuel pump relay is combined with the injection system (EFI) relay. In this case, replacement requires special care - incorrect installation can lead to a malfunction of the ECU.

Signs of a faulty fuel pump relay

Fuel pump relay Nissan Tiida rarely fails suddenly - it is usually preceded by characteristic symptoms. If you notice at least one of the following signs, it is worth checking this particular element:

• ⚡ Engine won't start, but the starter turns. At the same time, there is no sound of the fuel pump operating (normally, after turning on the ignition, a slight buzzing noise is heard from under the rear seat).
• ⛽ Floating speed idling or failures during acceleration are a sign of unstable fuel supply.
• 🔥 Lights up Check Engine, but the scanner gives errors P0190 (fuel pressure sensor circuit malfunction) or P0230 (pump circuit low).
• 🔄 The engine stalls hot and starts only after it cools down - a typical symptom of a “tired” relay that gets hot and opens its contacts.

You can distinguish a relay malfunction from a breakdown of the fuel pump or fuse itself using a simple test:

1. Turn the key to position ON (do not start the engine).
2. Listen for sounds from under the rear seat: if the pump does not hum, there is a problem in the power circuit (relay or fuse).
3. If the pump works but the engine does not start, check the pressure in the fuel rail (standard for Tiida: 3–4 bar).

There are cases when the relay clicks, but the pump does not start. This indicates:

• 🔌 Open circuit between the relay and the pump.
• 🔋 Malfunction of the pump itself (brush wear or rotor jamming).
• 🔌 Oxidation of contacts in the pump connector or ground (check the wire going to the body under the rear seat).

How to check the fuel pump relay with a multimeter

To diagnose the relay you will need multimeter (or a simple 12V test lamp) and a screwdriver. Follow the step by step instructions:

Remove the relay from the block|Test the winding for an open|Check the contact resistance|Make sure there is 12V at the control contact|Test the relay under load-->

Step 1: Removing the Relay

Carefully pull the relay out of the socket (you can use a screwdriver to pry it off the edge). Pay attention to the markings of the contacts: they are usually signed as 85, 86, 87, 30 (standard numbering for 4-pin relays).

Step 2. Check the winding

Connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode (200 Ohm) to contacts 85 And 86. The resistance of a working winding should be within 50–120 Ohm. If the device shows OL (break) or 0 (short circuit), relay is faulty.

Step 3. Checking contacts

Switch the multimeter to mode diode continuity and connect the probes to the contacts 30 And 87. In normal condition (without voltage applied), the circuit should be open (no beep). When 12V is applied to 85 And 86 contacts should withdraw (a sound will appear).

Step 4: Checking the control signal

Insert the relay back into the block, but do not secure it. Turn the key to position ON and measure the voltage between the contact 86 and mass. Must be 12V. If there is no voltage, the problem is in the control circuit (ECU or wiring).

What to do if the relay is working properly but the pump is not working?

If the relay is working properly, but the fuel pump does not turn on, check:

1. **Fuse** (usually 15A, located next to the relay, marking FUEL PUMP).

2. **Pump connector** under the rear seat - contacts often oxidize or wires fray.

3. **Ground** of the pump (black wire, attached to the body under the seat).

4. **The pump itself** - if it receives 12V, but it does not work, the brushes may be burnt out or the rotor may be jammed.

Typical mistakes when replacing a fuel pump relay

Replacing a relay seems like a simple procedure, but even here, car owners make mistakes that can lead to serious consequences. Here are the most common of them:

⚠️ Attention: Never use relays from other systems (such as the fan or headlights) to replace the fuel pump. They may have different current and voltage characteristics, which will lead to overheating or failure of the ECU.

• ⚡ Using non-original relays without checking parameters. For example, a relay with switching current 20A instead of the required 30A will quickly fail.
• 🔧 Incorrect installation (contacts are mixed up 30 And 87). This may cause a short circuit or blown fuse.
• 🔌 Ignoring oxidized contacts in the block slot. Even a new relay will be unstable if the contacts are dirty.
• 📋 Lack of inspection after replacement. Always test the pump (listen for sound) before starting the engine.

Another common mistake is buying a relay based on appearance, and not by catalog number. For example, a relay from Nissan Almera N16 externally similar to what is in Tiida, but has different response time characteristics. This can cause problems with starting the engine in cold weather.

If you are not sure about the choice, focus on the original numbers:

• 🔢 For Tiida J31: 21500-JA00A or 21500-JA00B.
• 🔢 For Tiida J32: 21500-4M00A or 21500-4M01A.

Analogs from trusted brands: Bosch (series 0 332 014 150), Hella (4RA 003 507-331), Meat & Doria (90018). When purchasing, specify that the relay should be 4-pin with normally open contacts.

How to temporarily start an engine without a fuel pump relay

If the relay fails on the road and there is no replacement at hand, you can temporarily apply voltage to the pump manually. This method is only suitable for emergency start and is not recommended for permanent use!

Method 1. Close the contacts in the block

1. Remove the relay from the block.
2. Take a piece of wire or a paper clip and close the contacts 30 And 87 (they are responsible for supplying voltage to the pump).
3. Turn the key to position ON - the pump should start working. Start the engine.

⚠️ Attention: When started in this way, the pump will run constantly, which can lead to overheating and failure. After starting the engine, remove the jumper immediately!

Method 2: Use a relay from another circuit

If the block has an identical relay (for example, from a fan or headlights), you can temporarily swap them. Please note that:

• Relay heated rear window does not fit - it is designed for less current.
• Relay cooling fan can be used, but only for a short time.

Critical: After an emergency start, replace the relay as soon as possible. Prolonged operation of the pump without a relay leads to its overheating and reduces its service life by 2–3 times.

Frequently asked questions about the fuel pump relay in Nissan Tiida

Is it possible to drive with a faulty fuel pump relay?

No. If the relay does not work, the pump will not pump fuel and the engine will not start. Temporary solutions (eg closing contacts) are only suitable for emergency starting. Long-term operation without a relay will lead to pump failure or overheating of the wiring.

Why does the relay click but the pump does not work?

This indicates one of the problems:

• Open circuit between relay and pump (check wires under rear seat).
• Malfunction of the pump itself (wear of brushes, jamming).
• Oxidation of contacts in the pump connector or ground.
• ECU malfunction (rare, but possible).

Start by checking the voltage at the pump connector with the ignition on.

Which fuse is responsible for the fuel pump in Tiida?

B Nissan Tiida The fuel pump is controlled by the fuse 15A, located in the same block as the relay. Designation:

• J31: FUEL PUMP (15A), position #28.
• J32: EFI (15A), position #19.

Before replacing the relay, always check the integrity of the fuse!

Can the fuel pump relay be repaired or just replaced?

Theoretically, the relay can be disassembled and the contacts cleaned, but in practice this is impractical:

• Relay contacts closed and are not intended for service.
• Even after cleaning, the life of the relay is significantly reduced.
• Cost of a new relay (200–500 rub.) makes repairs unprofitable.

It is better to immediately replace the relay with a new one.

Where to buy an original relay for Tiida?

The original relay can be purchased:

• From official dealers Nissan (guaranteed authenticity, but the price is higher).
• In trusted online stores: Exist.ru, Autodoc, Emmegi (search by number 21500-4M00A).
• At disassembly (only if the relay is removed from the working machine and checked).

Beware of fakes - they often have a shorter life and can cause problems with the ECU.